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[Smitty2u]

Well Smitty I nearly finshed running in the bike. Fresh fuel (100RON) rather than the usual 95 has cured the small amount of pinging. Unfortunately after a really nice days hard riding 250+km with about a dozen mates and 10km from home and 4 km from the dealer the compoensator shat itself during a 4th gear squirt in the tunnels. Just checking out the sound - you know.
There was no noise or warning it just started to slip then no drive. At the dealers with the primary cover removed the compensator bolt had backed out and the compensator was fornicated. New upgraded comp ordered. Sh!t happens spoilt a good ride.

Hey Clubbie, that blows.  Is the new compensator on you?  Hope they put you back in good running order soon.  Did you get your scooter Dyno'd?

[clubbie]

Not yet. Have been trying to get the miles up to finish running in new pistons/rings/barrels. May just wait until heads/tb is done as the tune seems pretty close. Rev limiter is set at 5500rpm. As for the compensator lets just say to upgrade the clutch the clutch basket and compensator were pulled together and the bolt holding the compensator subsequently backed out. I could be unlucky but I did point that out - nicely. I do not have the bike or the (if any) invoice.

Kudos to the bloke that did the build. He picked me and the bike up within 15mins of calling the dealer. He was looking rather pale until I told him to relax and that the motor was fine but something in the the clutch/comp primary area was stuffed. When we got back to the workshop he had drained the oil and had the primary cover off faster than I could make a phone call and arrange a ride back home.

[MadCVORG]

Had the same problem with the comp bolt on my FLTRUSE.  Let go with 77 miles on the odometer.  But it kept going......

[clubbie]

Geeeeez Mad. Didn't you hear anything?

Dealer called this arvo and they are replacing the clutch bearing just in case any schrapnel got into it. Clutch basket etc has been pulled appart and cleaned during the bearing replacement. Compensator is on loctited and torqued and no I can not have the bike today, wait for it to "set". Asked about the invoice and the service guy said "Don't worry about that. We (dealer) were the last people to work on the bike and we stand by our work. Your bike is ready tomorrow, see you then".

[Smitty2u]

Geeeeez Mad. Didn't you hear anything?

Dealer called this arvo and they are replacing the clutch bearing just in case any schrapnel got into it. Clutch basket etc has been pulled appart and cleaned during the bearing replacement. Compensator is on loctited and torqued and no I can not have the bike today, wait for it to "set". Asked about the invoice and the service guy said "Don't worry about that. We (dealer) were the last people to work on the bike and we stand by our work. Your bike is ready tomorrow, see you then".

Good to hear they are taking care of you!  WTF is "arvo"?
Be safe..... or be lucky...

[clubbie]

Sorry, aussie slang. Arvo = afternoon

[MadCVORG]

Only thing I heard sounded like a lifter tap.  Called the dealer when halfway home, but the noise was minimal in idle.  When I started back up, the noise was noticeably less, so I figured the motor was a bit tight...until I parked.  Dealer was out immediately to trailer the bike back, rep,aced the outer primary and checked the primary drive. No damage otherwise.  Planning to have them do the 110 SE Race upgrades with custom cams.

[jagonza1]

I stoked my 88 to a 103 with se kopressor heads and used the se257 cam  that one produces more torque and react kind of like an s&s 570any how I ended up with 90  hp and 109 ft lbs torque but then I replaced the the throttle body with a thundermax 50 mill unit and now have 101hp and still have teh 109 tq

[markj]

as a new user of the site and not knowing how to use it very well, I wanted to reply to deweys post. I run the 2009 se110 using SS 551 cams for the last year, I ve really enjoyed them we ride two up and loaded 90% of the time . The roll on is awesome but like the 255 cams they do run out of air early, oh my numbers are 88hp 117 torque. Seems lately the gas has been getting worse here in okla. pinging issues when I roll in it two up, don't notice it when riding solo. So I ve been thinking a different approach ? has anyone here used axtels 117 top end kit for a 110 ? or having a 96" or 103" head reworked to address the low VE on the SE 110 head ? I had a earlier 110 with 10.2 comp 570ss 110 head only cleaned up around the intake valve did 105hp 115 torque, couldn't help but wonder what the motor would have done with a head that had a higher VE ?

[HD Street Performance]

There is nothing wrong with the head as long as people don't mess them up. They are big and need cautious grinding and valve choices.
The pipe is critical too. There are several that actually scavenge (some better than others) and when a cam that is used with over 30° overlap they can get soggy fast without one of these better pipes. Going to the trouble of using a good pipe (in the case of a Supertrap actually tuning the number of discs), a larger TB and equally high quality tune will net a large difference. One customer of mine did go both ways. All the right parts in the motor good tune 110hp 106TQ and a relatively flat torque curve. Changed to the factory 58mm TB, Boarzilla, larger injectors and had it retuned, 122/122. Same tuner, one of the best. You decide?
The 110 will move right up the ladder with the rest of them with careful planning and spending money on the pieces that add value.
Here is "before", 10.5/1 D&D Fatcat, Pro heads, TW400-6 (not S&S 570 as stated in the notes).

[HD Street Performance]

Here is the AFTER with the changes noted above.

[markj]

Thanks... forgot to mention running fuelmoto head pipe crucher mufflers and heavy breather .kinda want to stay away from the noisy steep ramp cams. seen some folks here running the Tman 600 or Andrews 54  some looked good some didn't look as good. needing to make a change growing tired not being able to roll in it anymore without it pinging. not wanting to reinvent the wheel just trying to get back to a good strong touring combination without trial and error. any input from the builders would be more than welcome.... yea alot careful planning

[HD Street Performance]

Tman has some cams that work well in the 110 as does Woods. Not all are overly aggressive.
The Tman 600 is discontinued, the Tman 660sm is a quiet running gentile ramp cam that has conservative overlap, lower TDC lifts, and wide LSA. Have a set going into a 103 soon but it looks ideal for a 110 with HD 10.5 HC pistons.

[Smitty2u]

I have a 110 build in progress and have chosen T-Mans TR-625 cam.  TR-625
From T-Mans site, "This new grind is a Hot Rod Cam for 95" to 113" motors. This cam was designed for 95" B-Style motors but has shown to perform well in 95" to 113" A-Style motors. Developed to make the power sooner in the torque band while still making power past 6200 rpm. 95" motors have produced 115 hp and 110 ft. lb torque while 103" have produced 125 hp and 120 ft. lb torque. Torque band begins at 2000 to 2500 rpm. Works well at 10.0 to 10.6 compression."
I'm doing quite a bit more than just the cam.....  Hope to have her done soon.

[markj]

It would be interesting to see how both builds turn out, will be keeping my eye out for post on them ... Thanks mark