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[JR]

As many of you know I am selling my Nana after I got my 12 Ultra Yellow Jacket. My Nana will be housed in my garage most of the time and have freedom to use at any time. Last month a group of us took a weekend trip to Lynchburg Tn for a barbecue festival and Jack Daniel tour. We all met at Bumpus in Collierville and were fixin to head out when my buddy riding my Nana said the battery light comes on when idling. I told him since I had the 45 amp rotor installed about 1 1/2 years ago, it's never dropped below 14 volts. Had Bumpus check it out and said it was voltage regulator and happened to have one in stock. Scooter has Warranty until end of April 2012. $50 later we were on our way. Bike was fine until next morning...same thing. Ran fine as long as we were moving and charged 12-14 volts. Got in that weekend and didn't get it back to Bumpus because we both were working out of town. Following weekend we were going to drop it off and he called me up and said bike wouldn't start. Engine turned over but wouldn't start. He  washed bike first then was going to come over and we were going to drop off bike. He put charger on it and I rode out to his house. Cleaned cables and tried to start and cranked right up. Let it idle and battery light would come on until you started riding then it would go up to 12-14 Volts. Got the bike to Bumpus and told them I wanted them to primary off and look at everything real close and heres why.

About 1 1/2 years ago when I was fixin to take a trip out West with 103tHunDer and 11hd110. Had the Nana getting a once over and having that 45 amp Rotor installed that I got off Ebay that Don (twolanerider) told me about. When they got in there he called and said I need to come and look at it. He said the splines were loose on flywheel and rotor. They had Moco come and inspect and they replaced Stator, Rotor, and Compensator. I looked at splines on flywheel and did not see any wear on it. When they installed rotor I got it had 2 different size washers to use. He showed me which one they were going to use and it looked like it was right. Bike has been running awesome. Took a 4000 mile scoot this summer with tommy and it ran great until I am ready to sell her. Maybe she is talking to me?

Fast forward to this week. I got a call that it looked like it's another voltage regulator. They have seen it happen before. The shaft seal on shifter lever was leaking and they were going to reseal it. I told them I wanted them to look at rotor and stator again. Glad they did. They said the splines on the 45 amp rotor we put on had spun out. It was held in place by the clamping force I guess. The inside of the rotor had a couple spots bad from where it spun. This time it got flywheel and praise God it's still under warranty. 45K on engine that has had the following installed 37K miles ago:

Zipper 575 Gear Drive Cams
TC88 Gear Drive Cam Bearing Set
Oil Bypass Shim
Zipper Pro Adjustable Pushrods
Fueling tappets
Fueling Cam Support
Fueling Super Oil Pump
Thundermax ECM
D&D Fat Cats 2 into 1

Now that I have to go into the cases I appreciate input on what else I might do while it's down and going into it. I figure Timkin Bearings and I will get the crank plugged, welded, balanced and trued. I will be calling Revolution performances to get a price. Any other suggestions welcomed. Very satisfied with performance of engine the way it is. Looking for longevity now. Thanks!

 

[Twolanerider]

I remember those rotors JR.  Still have the same thing in my 05.  The spacers provided were obvious as to which should be used.  So even if they tried it'd be hard to have gotten that wrong.  Unfortunately if the crank splines had a little wear before it might have just kept on going.  Sorry to read of the problem.  Sounds like the circumstances are all in place to make a bad problem better though.

Sounds like you're fixing it as if it's still you're own.  Going above and beyond what the extended warranty would do.  If that's the case it's hard to argue with getting the crank touched up.  Revolution Performance seems a good place to do that also.  If memory serves they offer a balancing/truing/welding service for less than $500. 

Not sure I'd worry about the Timken conversion though.  Not that it's not an improvement.  Just that with the levels of output from the engine as you described it you're probably not pushing things hard enough to take advantage of the difference.  Can't hurt anything to do it.  But, especially with a good true crank, case machining is probably money you could keep in your pocket.

[JR]

Thanks Don! It is a friend that is getting my bike and want to do things as if it's still mine. Thinking about going with the HD 45 amp rotor this time...just because.   Believe they offer one up to the 05's if I remember correctly. If not I will go back to the dude on Ebay. Liked being able to use heated gear and see volt meter hold! As for that spacer, I believe I asked you about it before I went to look at it at Bumpus. Thanks again buddy for your input. Bless ya man!

 

[Twolanerider]

Thanks Don! It is a friend that is getting my bike and want to do things as if it's still mine. Thinking about going with the HD 45 amp rotor this time...just because.   Believe they offer one up to the 05's if I remember correctly. If not I will go back to the dude on Ebay. Liked being able to use heated gear and see volt meter hold! As for that spacer, I believe I asked you about it before I went to look at it at Bumpus. Thanks again buddy for your input. Bless ya man!

 

JR, there is a Harley branded 45 amp rotor.  But it's expensive.  Around $250 if I remember correctly.  Check out 29999-97.

Just checked and the guy local to me is still selling that same OE's parts.  He's got the rotor now for $95.  Currently at this ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360201121350

If you're gun shy of the aftermarket part but are still considering the high dollar Harley part there is one other consideration.  Change all three pieces...

Get a rotor, stator and regulator for an 06 touring bike.  That's a higher output set also and it's the new three phase charging system.  So output at lower RPMs stays up too.  Honestly I'd never do all that to replace one piece on an 05 or earlier bike.  But if I had two out of three fail (as sometimes happens with regulators and stators) I'd make the change in a heartbeat.

[JR]

Don, since it is under warranty and they need to replace all of it anyway, I thought I might be able to pay the difference in the upgrade. I don't know if that's more than $100 or not. I would be willing to go back with moto electrix if need be. I believe failure may have come from previous wear on flywheel shaft contributing to premature failure of splines on rotor.

[porthole]

So what are the odds the nut wasn't torqued when the rotor was installed per the bulletin and somebody went by the book instead?
That will screw things up, and wipe out the spacer.

[JR]

So what are the odds the nut wasn't torqued when the rotor was installed per the bulletin and somebody went by the book instead?
That will screw things up, and wipe out the spacer.

Duane, I don't have that answer. I do know we talked about that when I stopped up there to look at spacer on rotor. They replaced everything on the shaft at that time. I haven't checked the exact mileage at time of last repair but I believe I got around 10K miles since then.

[Twolanerider]

Don, since it is under warranty and they need to replace all of it anyway, I thought I might be able to pay the difference in the upgrade. I don't know if that's more than $100 or not. I would be willing to go back with moto electrix if need be. I believe failure may have come from previous wear on flywheel shaft contributing to premature failure of splines on rotor.

So what are the odds the nut wasn't torqued when the rotor was installed per the bulletin and somebody went by the book instead?
That will screw things up, and wipe out the spacer.

Original wear was probably a loose comp nut.  Little else to cause that problem.  If it stays tight it can't rock back and forth and wear itself down.  If it wore more later or if it was worn a lot to begin with and the shop tried to ease it by we can't know at this point.  If there was a lot more wear it had to have been moving; for whatever reason.  Fortunately for JR the ESP is saving the worst of the hassle and he's got another bike to ride.  And, at this point, those are the most important things to consider .

[mattm]

I put the same 45 amp rotor on my bike a while back, and if I remember correctly, with the stock setup you were supposed to reuse the original washer. The 2 washers that come with the kit are for aftermarket setups. Hope I didn't screwup (wouldn't be the first time)

[Twolanerider]

I put the same 45 amp rotor on my bike a while back, and if I remember correctly, with the stock setup you were supposed to reuse the original washer. The 2 washers that come with the kit are for aftermarket setups. Hope I didn't screwup (wouldn't be the first time)

I've used three of those (that I can remember right now).  My recollection is the same as yours Matt.  The others weren't just a little bit wrong either.  They obviously didn't belong.

[JR]

Original wear was probably a loose comp nut.  Little else to cause that problem.  If it stays tight it can't rock back and forth and wear itself down.  If it wore more later or if it was worn a lot to begin with and the shop tried to ease it by we can't know at this point.  If there was a lot more wear it had to have been moving; for whatever reason.  Fortunately for JR the ESP is saving the worst of the hassle and he's got another bike to ride.  And, at this point, those are the most important things to consider .

Amen Don! I never had the comp nut come loose to the point some here have said they had, where it sounded like something come apart. Even had it checked a couple times from some random noise that was an excuse to have them check it when in for a service and never had them say compensator was loose. I know that's not saying much and what you said makes sense. I will try to go by there today to take a look. Being out of town 5-6 days a week leaves little time to get things done when you get home. Reading Matt's post, and your response, I remember when he showed me, it's like you said. If he used any of the other washers it would be obviously out of whack! I am glad this happened now while it's winter and I have another bike to ride. Want er fixed right and to last a long time for a good friend that's getting her!

[HD Street Performance]

I would replace the worn parts and put the motor back stock with the exception of truing and welding the crank. Your friend will get a very good motorcycle. No Timken is needed. Use the latest revision new case bearings, of course.
If the rotor is new and the comp is clamping properly it will last till the rest of the motor is tired. Guys don't get them to clamp then the problems start. There are things to watch that get overlooked. I have taken them apart and there is built up red loctite at the bottom and the darn thing couldn't clamp at any torque. I always put a spacer washer under the comp nut so the front of the nut does not bottom out or put the nut in the lathe and turn off .030. I don't use the degree method to tighten either but I don't think that is a bad method just not something I want to experiment with because the old way works.

[Unbalanced]

Jr.

The 05's were known for leaky heads and valve guides etc.  If it were me, I would send the heads off and have them checked by someone capable.   Hindsight now, but did you do a leak down test?  At 45k miles I would most likely also replace the pistons and rings and do a fresh hone to the cylinders.   In doing so I would call Rev Performance and give them the weights of the pistons or send them along to them.   I would also consider changing out the lifters.

Are they going to dynamically balance as well as true the motor?  Rev Performance was offering a special pricing through the 1st of the Decemember, they might be willing to extend that for you if you go through a dealer.   You might check with HD-Dude or Hogasm on this.

Good luck with your rebuild.

[HD Street Performance]

I haven't seen too many issues with those 05 CVO 103 heads other than the K-line valve seals are not the greatest. Nonetheless would agree just a renew and freshen up with high quality valve seals and guides is a smart move, as would be cylinder inspection and re-ring or bore and hone according to what measurements reveal. Like I said just a stock overhaul but the crank fixed also.

[Twolanerider]

 I don't use the degree method to tighten either but I don't think that is a bad method just not something I want to experiment with because the old way works.

Back about the time Mother Harley changed the tightening spec for the comp nut this came up as a conversation here.  Turns out many of the crowd here had experienced loose compensator nuts.  Some repeatedly. 

While there are multiple potential causes including the load of loctite, assembly error and, in some cases, comp nuts that were just a bit too long the new tightening method did prove a benefit.  What was a too regular issue across a relatively large group of riders become a very rare problem.  Just an FYI.

Cutting the comp nut down a bit as you describe has been necessary on a couple I've seen.  But only a couple.  You, of course, see many more than any of us do individually.  As a group, however, it's a significant cohort for study.