Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[TIF2]

My Lid Speaker project is coming along nicely so I thought I would post up some of the issues I ran into when trying to mount a set of aftermarket speakers to the H-D P&A Saddlebag Lids. Since HD can NEVER do what is stanfard within the industry, you cannot simply "drop-in" a set of aftermarket 5x7 speakers into the HD lids. Even though the 5x7 format has been around for literally decades, and is well standardized for mount holes, HD had to re-invent the wheel such that mods are required to both the lids AND the aftermarket speakers for proper fitment and sealing. Here are the issues:

1. The stock hole in the lids are cut SPECIFICALLY to house the either the 1-ohm, or 2-ohm, Harley Boom Speakers only.
2. The hole spacing for the speaker mounts are not standard 5x7 spacing, again requiring the use of the HD Boom speakers

This post is for the mods to the lids required, I'll post a Part 2 for what I did to the speakers themselves.
Anyway - I hope this helps others who may want to use the HD lids for a factory look, but add some better 5x7 speakers. The mods I did to the lids are mandatory in order to use JL Audio drivers, other drivers may or may not require mods to the lids. MORE THAN LIKELY they will in order to seal properly. This is just one way to skin a cat, other solutions may be possible.

Obviously - do all fit-checks and mods prior to sending out for final paint and finish work.

I used JB-Stik, a cold-weld putty, to fill the gaps required. Make sure to score the plastic with deep gouges to help the putty adhere to the plastic where required. Additionally, have the speaker baskets handy to check-fit that they will still mount properly while you are moulding the putty, it will save a lot of dremel work later. I don't have pics of the actuall workings of the putty  - only finished pics. It's pretty obvious what needs to be done once you have lids in hand, but here are the overall steps required:

1. Get a package of JB-Stik, which is available for about $7 at most any hardware store
2. Using a hobby knife or coarse file, score the plastic HEAVILY around the edge where the putty will be attached.
3. Cut off a chunk large enough to fill the gap and starting kneading it within itself until a uniform dark grey color is achieved throughout the material. Once fully mixed, it has ~5-10 minutes of workable time before starting to set, and is fully cured in 20-30 minutes.
4. Create a "cord" of putty by rolling it in the palms of your hands lay the putty against the edge of the plastic. Mold the putty to creat a fill. The more accurate you molds it, and the more accurate your amount of putty installed is, the less finish work required later. Do only one side of the hole at a time.
5. Once you're happy with one-side - let the product set fully (45mins to be safe) and then do the other side
6. Once both sides have fully cured, finish with a dremel. The putty hardens like steel - use a steady hand and VERY light pressure to prevent chewing the plastic up. Becomes more critical as you get closer to where the putty and plastic meet. Make the finish work as accurate as possible, this will ultimately be the seal surface for the speaker frames.

That's pretty much it. Sounds a LOT harder than it is if you're at all handy with this sort of thing. Pics of the finished product are below.

[TIF2]

Pic 1 of finished work.
Without these mods I would never trust that my aftermarket speakers would seal properly.

[TIF2]

Underside pic.
You can see that care is needed when filling the gap to ensure that the basket mount tabs in the lids still have clearance to mount the baskets.

[TIF2]

Another pic from another angle

[TIF2]

Final close-up pic.

Hope this helps.

[Harleypingman]

Thanks for the excellent pictures, Rich; and, for the tip to use JB Stick. 

Rich has been a big help to me on my project using HD saddlebag speaker lids to install Rockford Fosgate 6x8 speakers (T1682), and the use of JB Stick was a big help to create a good surface for the speakers to seal on.

When Rich refers to HD's non standard speaker holes, he's referring to the four holes that are inside the outer pair of holes at the rear of the lid (inside molded shoulders), and the pair of holes at the front of the speaker (in recesses).  (See Rich's photos above.)  Those outer most pairs of holes are used to install the speaker grilles.  The inner pairs of holes are for mounting HD's 1 or 2 ohm 5x7 speakers.  In my project, I was able to use the front pair of SPEAKER (not grille) holes, but had to drill an additional pair of holes to accommodate the rear mounts on the RF speakers.

My interest in using the RF speakers is simple; I'm using a RF PBR300x4 amp which is 4 ohm impedance--using HD's 1 or 2 ohm speakers was not an option for me.

Thanks, again, Rich for your excellent photos and tip on JB Stik.

Carl

[FAST380]

Helpful write up Rich, thanks.  I will be interested to see the stock lids when they come in.