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[jpb]

Bike is a SE 2007 Ultra Classic.  Bore and stroke are stock.  Build includes Bub Seven True duals and TTS mastertune.  HP, Inc 51mm throttle body with 4.89 injectors, Dan Baisley’s Pro Street Head job with 2.120 intakes and 1.650 exhausts.  Compression is 10.5 with a .040 squish.  Domed pistons. Feuling push rods.  Dan Basiley's geometry corrected roller rocker arms.  Valve spring seat pressure at 210.

I heard a terrible nosie the other day and removed the rocker covers and found that the rear rocker support plate was broken around the rocker shaft directly over the exhaust valve.  When I put this engine together back in 2008 I had read about the HD support plates failing so I installed the Delkron Billet support plate in hopes of avoiding this type of problem.  Wouldn't you know it that this high dollar part I installed to avoid this issue was the only thing broken.  I guess I will use the SE forged plates this time.

One bite in the a$$ is that the valve stem oil seal had come up off of the guide and slid up the valve stem.  I don't want to remove the heads so I guess I will buy the nub tool which claims to be able to remove the valve spring with head still on engine and in the frame.

The rocker support plate was badly hammered so now I will need to remove the cam chest cover and support plate and clean out everything and replace the inner and outer cam bearings as well as inspect the oil pump.  I guess I will need to remove the rear wheel too and drop the oil pan and clean up any crap that may have gotten deposited there.  The fun just never ends! Lol

I assume no metal bits can get from the rocker boxes and into the crankcase area?  I believe the drain back holes in the heads lead back to the cam chest and therefore any metal bits would be picked up by the scavenging side of the pump and dumped back into the oil pan where the pressure side of the pump would pick up the trash and provided the gear rotors did not get destroyed, send it into the oil filter unless the filter was bypassing, and stop there.

Anyway the engine always was noisy at the top end and had severe pinging problems no matter which professional tuned it.  Only Sunoco 98 octane fuel would solve the problem but at $10 a gallon its way too expensive and not available on trips.  Most folks agreed that the Woods 408 G camshaft is causing my noise and pinging and I think this would be a good time to change out the camshaft.

My riding style is mostly long road trips, two up and loaded with luggage.  I guess I am looking for a good low end torque, quieter top end and no pinging. I don’t want to remove the heads to check valve clearances so I guess anything with less lift than the Woods 408 G would eliminate that issue.

Thanks for reading!

[HD Street Performance]

Do not use billet rocker supports as the offset will have the roller rocker coming off the stem tip or close anyway at the beginning of lift. Reason is the protrusion 2.100+ and the head top cut .030+. Use a new stock support set or SE forged
Change cams to Crane 296
Change the valve springs to AV&V 6500S beehives at about 1.880
Get it retuned including timing mods

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Bike is a SE 2007 Ultra Classic.  Bore and stroke are stock.  Build includes Bub Seven True duals and TTS mastertune.  HP, Inc 51mm throttle body with 4.89 injectors, Dan Baisley’s Pro Street Head job with 2.120 intakes and 1.650 exhausts.  Compression is 10.5 with a .040 squish.  Domed pistons. Feuling push rods.  Dan Basiley's geometry corrected roller rocker arms.  Valve spring seat pressure at 210.

I heard a terrible nosie the other day and removed the rocker covers and found that the rear rocker support plate was broken around the rocker shaft directly over the exhaust valve.  When I put this engine together back in 2008 I had read about the HD support plates failing so I installed the Delkron Billet support plate in hopes of avoiding this type of problem.  Wouldn't you know it that this high dollar part I installed to avoid this issue was the only thing broken.  I guess I will use the SE forged plates this time.

One bite in the a$$ is that the valve stem oil seal had come up off of the guide and slid up the valve stem.  I don't want to remove the heads so I guess I will buy the nub tool which claims to be able to remove the valve spring with head still on engine and in the frame.

The rocker support plate was badly hammered so now I will need to remove the cam chest cover and support plate and clean out everything and replace the inner and outer cam bearings as well as inspect the oil pump.  I guess I will need to remove the rear wheel too and drop the oil pan and clean up any crap that may have gotten deposited there.  The fun just never ends! Lol

I assume no metal bits can get from the rocker boxes and into the crankcase area?  I believe the drain back holes in the heads lead back to the cam chest and therefore any metal bits would be picked up by the scavenging side of the pump and dumped back into the oil pan where the pressure side of the pump would pick up the trash and provided the gear rotors did not get destroyed, send it into the oil filter unless the filter was bypassing, and stop there.

Anyway the engine always was noisy at the top end and had severe pinging problems no matter which professional tuned it.  Only Sunoco 98 octane fuel would solve the problem but at $10 a gallon its way too expensive and not available on trips.  Most folks agreed that the Woods 408 G camshaft is causing my noise and pinging and I think this would be a good time to change out the camshaft.

My riding style is mostly long road trips, two up and loaded with luggage.  I guess I am looking for a good low end torque, quieter top end and no pinging. I don’t want to remove the heads to check valve clearances so I guess anything with less lift than the Woods 408 G would eliminate that issue.

Thanks for reading!

At 10.5 cr, it is not too much for the 408.
Scott

[jpb]

Thanks Dewey,

The Delkron Billet support plates do not have the offset. In 2008 Delkron made two sets. They had one with the offset and one set without and I have the set without. The ones they produced with the offset have it stamped on the end.

The cam you mention sound good.  I don't want to remove the heads and do spring work if possible.  Do you thing the PSI springs I have now will be OK?  They have 30,000 miles on them and were at 210 on the seat back when first built.

I am ordering the nub tool which claims that you can remove the spring while in the frame with the head still on the bike.  I could use this device if it does indeed work but I would not know how to check pressures and spring heights.  I have no experience with this type of setup work either.  Would they be close enough to just swap out?