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[spydglide]

Yeah no kidding but I need to find a beautiful young lady to touch it to the wires every time I need it to work.

[Firewalker]

Here I am back again. I have reinstalled that '$&%##%$' door opener in a different location in the garage, posted it high and low, plugged it into a different circuit than the opener is on and it will open the door if I have the receiver within a few feet of the bike but once it is put on the wall it will not receive the signal from the bike. I about at the end of my patience with this thing. Do any of you have any ideas for me here? I will take all of the help I can get here.

Thanks... Firewalker.

[49445CVO]

 

  I had not moved it closer to the bike to see if it will work.  I wonder if there is anything under the fairing blocking the signal?

[Firewalker]

I do not know if there is something blocking the signal or not but it is really frustrating.

[grc]

I do not know if there is something blocking the signal or not but it is really frustrating.

Have you contacted your dealership for assistance?  There is a very good possibility that there is something wrong with either the transmitter or the receiver, and all the messing around with changing the receiver location will never fix the problem.  There have been reports from others over the years of defective receivers.

Some garage door openers are just not terribly compatible with the Harley receiver.  What brand and model opener do you have?  Check with the manufacturer and see if they have any known compatibility issues with the Harley device, and if they do, what they suggest as a fix.  Try taking the receiver (disconnect the wiring that runs to the garage door opener) outside and power it up with an extension cord, then while an assistant holds it and observes the indicator lamp, roll the bike 20 feet away and flash the high beam switch.  If the receiver is getting a signal from the transmitter, the indicator lamp should go out and come back on.  Keep increasing the distance until the lamp no longer flashes to determine the range of the system without possible interference from the opener.  I would expect a minimum of 30 feet, and it really should be much farther than that.  If it doesn't work, then you have a defective receiver or transmitter, and it's time to have the dealer fix it under warranty.  That isn't a totally foolproof diagnostic routine, since the receiver could be receiving the signal but not sending a signal to the opener, but it should at least tell you if the transmitter and receiver are communicating with each other.

btw, if you have an opener with a fancy wall mounted display and activation button, you may find that getting the Harley device to work will require removing the "smart" control and replacing it with the plain jane simple button from a lesser model.  Some modern openers have wall panels that include temperature and time displays, motion sensors to turn on the lights, and various other stuff along with the open/close button.  If you have one of those, try a simple open/close wall panel in it's place to see if that's the problem.


Jerry

[JR]

Perhaps there is interference or the signal is blocked.  I had to mount my receiver between a fridge and a utility cabinet because the outlet was there.  Guess I could add an extension cord and move it but I'm lazy, lol.  Anyway it is sensitive and sometimes when I am leaving or coming back it does not work and I have to move the cycle a few feet from where I was before the receiver picks up the signal.  If you haven't moved you bike might try that and see if that helps. 

I have the same problem with mine on the 12 bike. I have the receiver mounted right at the garage door reciever which is where I had it with my 05 bike and could open the door before I pulled in my driveway. Now, sometimes I have to play with it just outside the door to get it to open.

 

[sprinkman]

I forget what site I got this from, but purchased a remote from e-bay motors I used one out of a ford type that you find in there sun visors. I think i got it for $15.00 delivered. You clear the codes out of it by hooking it to a 12 volt supply then program your garage door code into it. Press the center buttom and devise some way of keeping it compressed I used a piece of wood with tape and then a electical tie strap. Then open up your head light bezel and tie wiring one into ground the other into your bright light wire i used quick connects and push remote back inside fairing being carefull not break any thing. Works off your bright lite switch safe myself a few bucks and it works great.  Hope this helps someone!!!

[grc]

Actually, if Harley wanted to enter the late 20th or early 21st century with the rest of us, they could throw out the old tech system they currently have and go to the Homelink type system like the one mentioned above.  The Homelink transmitter learns the actual codes of your garage door opener so it will work just like another regular remote.  No extra box mounted on the wall or ceiling, no extra wiring, just a nice simple button on the visor or near the rear view mirror.  The same principle's could be applied to the Harley transmitter so that it could communicate directly with the garage door opener rather than the separate receiver and still be triggered by the headlight if that was the desired method of actuation.  These days with all the cheap electronics it would be simple, inexpensive to produce, and I bet they could sell tons of them as an extra cost factory option as well as a P&A kit.


Jerry 

[hdnik]

Firewalker,
grc is correct in what may be your issue. Mine worked fine until I moved it to our new house with new garage doors and openers.

it worked very intermittently like maybe one in twenty attempts. after pairing and repairing and moving and reconnecting the harley plug in receiver it turned out to be my wall switch. it was a fancy one with the motion detector light and temp readout and time etc. etc. It  seems that the short that the harley receiver sends would be long enough to turn on the light but not fire the opener because the wall switch by chamberlin has circuitry that manages the short.

just get a basic wall switch for your opener that has a button to open the door and  maybe a button for the light... the simpler the better...the hd opener will work fine every time.

[dayne66]

Firewalker,
grc is correct in what may be your issue. Mine worked fine until I moved it to our new house with new garage doors and openers.

it worked very intermittently like maybe one in twenty attempts. after pairing and repairing and moving and reconnecting the harley plug in receiver it turned out to be my wall switch. it was a fancy one with the motion detector light and temp readout and time etc. etc. It  seems that the short that the harley receiver sends would be long enough to turn on the light but not fire the opener because the wall switch by chamberlin has circuitry that manages the short.

just get a basic wall switch for your opener that has a button to open the door and  maybe a button for the light... the simpler the better...the hd opener will work fine every time.

Put a basic wall switch in parallel (maybe by a man-door or right inside the garage door it controls) and hook the HD stuff up to it.

[Cvostu]

I finally got to install the garage door opener the other night.  Before I did that I changed out the headlight bulbs to the Piaa ones,, they are much better.  I also went with the tune trapper after I pitched the hd hidden antenna.   The garage door opener went in very easy with the two  sided tape supplied and I soldered all the wires in and closed up the wiring loom. The whole install took about a half hour. I then called my other half to hold down the button on the receiver and I programmed it on the second try.  Works great and it is as good as the one on my 04 which came with one stock. I can't believe this bike didn't have one from the factory.  I'd recommend it but I wouldn't take a chance with the solderless crimp couplers that are supplied with the kit.  If it's not programming properly, maybe the connections should be checked. 

[cold1]

X3 I had issues with a new garage door opener (LIFTMASTER) with all the time/temp etc. after door installer said my Harley unit was probably broke, I called door manufacturer advised going to basic wall unit & disconnecting complected one, (voltage draw too much for extra) problem solved. I hope this helps. CHEERS   

[hdnik]

Put a basic wall switch in parallel (maybe by a man-door or right inside the garage door it controls) and hook the HD stuff up to it.

Maybe but I tried everything. It wasn't until I actually removed the High-Tech Chamberlain wall switch from the system completely did my HD receiver start to work. literally I disconnected the wall button completely and everything worked fine. As soon as it was put back into the loop in any way, it started to manage the voltage. There is no way to bypass it even by twisting the HD wires right into the opener itself... that damb switch became the default.

19 bucks from home depot... basic wall switch... problem solved.

[Cvostu]

Great news

[grc]

Maybe but I tried everything. It wasn't until I actually removed the High-Tech Chamberlain wall switch from the system completely did my HD receiver start to work. literally I disconnected the wall button completely and everything worked fine. As soon as it was put back into the loop in any way, it started to manage the voltage. There is no way to bypass it even by twisting the HD wires right into the opener itself... that damb switch became the default.

19 bucks from home depot... basic wall switch... problem solved.

     When I installed that super duper "smart" control panel from Chamberlain, the first thing that struck me was how many different functions were controlled strictly with one wire pair.  My old system had four wires just to control switching the light and opening/closing the door.  My new one has one pair of wires to open and close the door,turn the lights off and on, report the status of the backup battery, power the clock and temperature reading, and power the motion detector.  There are probably a few more functions I haven't figured out yet as well.  Obviously this is no simple hot wire and ground setup, which is what the Harley add-on device needs to work properly.

Since the wife and I like the features of the new control panel versus the simple open/close button, once the bike comes out of hibernation it will get a regular remote for the new Chamberlain installed in the fairing and wired to a momentary switch I'll add to the inner fairing or console.  I've used that method before on a different bike, and I actually liked it better than the Harley transmitter and receiver setup.  I only used the Harley system because it came standard with the bike.


Jerry


Update:  Just installed the Chamberlain remote and a pushbutton switch to my SEEG this past week, and the operation is so much better than it was with the Harley system it's like night and day.  The range is more than double what it was, not only with the bike but with the cars.  No more multiple flashes of the headlights to get the door to open, just one poke of the button from 60-100 feet away.