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Author Topic: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...  (Read 1383 times)

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NETacoma03Fatboy

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Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« on: February 12, 2012, 07:23:29 PM »

I stand 5'7" and am having a problem with the height of the bike.   I have Progressives 440 on the back and will soon be adding a Progressive 1" drop kit on the back.  I cannot decide on whether to drop the front by an 1" as well or leave it stock height.   I am going to be buying the Progressive montotube cartridge for the front, hence the dilemma of whether to go stock or drop 1".   I am particular hoping to hear from anyone that has only dropped the back and from anyone that has dropped front & back by 1".

Thanks for any feedback.
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JCZ

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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2012, 09:04:15 PM »

Have you thought about leaving the bike stock and just going to a close reach seat?  My wife is 5'7" and she has a close reach seat and the touring pullback bars and she doesn't have any reach issues.
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NETacoma03Fatboy

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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2012, 11:41:05 PM »

I really like my Mustang seat and have not found any other seats that work for me...
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JCZ

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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #3 on: February 13, 2012, 08:38:36 AM »

She has the Corbin Classic Solo Close.   It's sure a lot cheaper way to go than changing all of your suspension and then you don't have to wonder what it's going to handle like. :nixweiss:
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petewerner

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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #4 on: February 13, 2012, 09:08:25 AM »

I first used the lowering blocks. Bottomed out alot with the 1" drop settings. Then I got the HD Reach seat that work pretty well, but I still wanted a little more for ease of manuvering around with my feet when backing out of my garage. Well at 5'8" I also  feel your pain, but the lowering blocks are NOT the way to go, I next went to a set of aftermarket air shocks from Arnott. I liked the additional drop from the shocks, but the shocks themselves sucked!! So from there I spoke with the mfg. and they have two upgraded versions with adjustability in either 6 settings or 11 settings for the top of the line version. Nearly $1200 minus the $599 I paid for the first set that they took back and supplied the new ones and they paid shipping for everything asnd here is the email explaining the swap and how they work and a contact to get the best deal and info about these shocks!! I got the short version which at speed can just rub inside the rear fender. I think it is the tire getting taller with more RPM's. But when it is in the middle of the stroke it is way shorter than stock and works way-way better!

    Sorry your having this problem. The Aldan shocks ride almost as good as the stock shocks. If needed we can swap the shocks for Aldans plus the difference.
                      Arnott Motorcycle Air Shocks
            We have two different models of shocks for the Baggers. The first is the Bilstein.  It’s the firmer ride of the two models. We profile the Bilstein for riders under the age of 35. Taking shorter trips and appreciating the firm response to the road.  You know the aggressive riding, and maintaining that low profile look. The Bilstein comes in two sizes.  Below are the specs. This model is retail priced at $599.99  for black and $798.99 for chrome. These prices are for both sizes.
    The Aldans are more for the long haul riders. ( 35 years of age and older ) Taking the long trips, single, double up, and wanting to get through the end of the day not feeling worn out. One of the reasons is the 11 way adjustment on the shock. This adjustment is the rebound control. You can dial down the rebound to get that softer ride. These shocks ride almost similar to the stock shocks. Look below for the Specs. This model is retail priced at $1099.99 for black and $1199.99 for chrome. These prices are for both sizes.
     Both these shocks enable the bikes to operate at lower levels on the bikes suspension, enabling shorter riders to touch the ground flat footed to maintain better control at stop signs, traffic lights and in parking lots. The best ride on both models is in the middle of the ( Up and Down ) travel.
Bilstein Shocks
12” Extended > 9.75” Collapsed
13.25” Extended > 10.25” Collapsed
Aldan Shocks
11.6” Extended > 9.6” Collapsed
13” Extended > 10.25” Collapsed
Thanks,
Bill Markley                                                                                                       
 800-251-8993  ext  112                                                                                             
bill@arnottinc.com
 
« Last Edit: February 13, 2012, 09:15:41 AM by petewerner »
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #5 on: February 13, 2012, 09:48:29 AM »

I stand 5'7", longer torso and I ride a 011 SERGU with progressive 940's and monotubes and I am flatfoot on the bike with boots.  I used the lowering bracket on my 2007 RG and kept the air shocks and that worked out OK lowering the bike 1 1/2", that's the least expensive fix to short man syndrome!  As another member suggested, the HD "reach" seat is your 2nd least expensive.
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #6 on: February 13, 2012, 10:51:18 AM »

I stand 5'7", longer torso and I ride a 011 SERGU with progressive 940's and monotubes and I am flatfoot on the bike with boots.  I used the lowering bracket on my 2007 RG and kept the air shocks and that worked out OK lowering the bike 1 1/2", that's the least expensive fix to short man syndrome!  As another member suggested, the HD "reach" seat is your 2nd least expensive.

Progressive 940's, monotubes and lowering brackets and anything else necessary....is cheaper than a seat?  :nixweiss: 
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #7 on: February 13, 2012, 10:58:22 AM »

It's the length of your inseam that matters most, not overall height.  I have a 29" inseam, perhaps a tad less, and had the same issue of not getting my feet flat enough to feel comfortable walking the bike around to park it.  Holding it up at stop lights isn't really a problem unless you let it get over too far, and then you're not going to hold it up, no matter what.  I had the same issue on my '06 SEUC, and now on the '11 SERGU (stock height, which is full height).  Keep in mind that Street Glides are 1" lower than your bike, at least in the rear, from the factory.  I have Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 front cartridges, at stock height.  I installed the Legend Air Ride system on both this bike and the '06 when I owned it.  They are not cheap, but drop the rear of the bike 3.25" when fully lowered, and allow me to get flat footed enough to walk the bike around when parking, etc.  They have a switch on the handlebar that takes the place of your brake or clutch clamp (whichever side you want it on) that gives you instant control over what's going on with the shock.  The bleed off side of the switch is fast acting, opening a solonoid valve to bleed air off the system when you want to lower things.

I do not recommend riding the bike with the rear shocks fully lowered, not because anything is rubbing, but because it rides like a hardtail...not comfortable at all.  However, raising it an inch or two is fine for around town, and fully extending the shock when riding two up and loaded, or when riding agressively, is a good ride.  The shocks actually ride better under a heavier load than a light one.  I have no issues with the rear tire rubbing at all, even on the SERGU, which has 18" wheels, front and rear.

The maximum amount that I would recommend lowering the bike is 1" with standard suspension componenets.  Avoid those components for lowering the rear end like the brackets, etc.  If you're going to do it, get proper shocks 1" lower than stock, (GOOD shocks, NOT HD air ride shocks that are 1" lower) or go with the fully adjustable air ride type suspension.  I am not familiar with the Arnott from a personal perspective, so cannot comment on the quality of the ride or the performance of the shocks.
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #8 on: February 13, 2012, 11:03:16 AM »

Progressive 940's, monotubes and lowering brackets and anything else necessary....is cheaper than a seat?  :nixweiss: 

JC....I think Rio was referring to only the lowering brackets, which I would not recommend personally.

The only drawback to changing seats, and I considered it, particularly with the HD Reach Seat, is that the seat isn't very comfortable to me.  You might consider sending your stock seat to Mean City Cycles and getting them to rebuild it.  I am assuming you have a "regular" RG Ultra?  The other option for me would be Corbin...if I changed any HD seat out, it would be to a Corbin.  Had one on my '06 and loved it.  The '11 SERGU seat is comfortable thus far for me.
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Fullsac X Pipe w/2" Baffles
Legend Air Ride Rear Shocks
Traxxion Dynamics AK-20 Front Suspension
Clearview GT13 Windshield
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2012, 11:26:12 AM »

JC....I think Rio was referring to only the lowering brackets, which I would not recommend personally.

The only drawback to changing seats, and I considered it, particularly with the HD Reach Seat, is that the seat isn't very comfortable to me.  You might consider sending your stock seat to Mean City Cycles and getting them to rebuild it.  I am assuming you have a "regular" RG Ultra?  The other option for me would be Corbin...if I changed any HD seat out, it would be to a Corbin.  Had one on my '06 and loved it.  The '11 SERGU seat is comfortable thus far for me.

Correct, on my 2007 i used the lowering brackets and they worked OK.  I had to hit a real nasty bump to bottom out, the kind that you avoid hitting so that rarely happened, BUT, 99% of the time I ride solo which made that route an easy choice at the time.  My 2010 CVO Ultra had the 940's and those worked well lowering the bike about 3/4 inch.  My 11 has the 940's and the mono tube which i think gives me about an inch.  I have a 29 inch inseam which is the important measurement.
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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #10 on: February 13, 2012, 11:52:44 AM »

We put the HD front lowering kit in Melanie's '07 SG (non SE) which works fine and is only slightly harsher. I also tried the rear lowering blocks that resulted in an aftermarket seat tab screw digging into the tire. (Solo seat, ornamental screw). After bolt legnth was cut the tire took out the wiring harness so we went with the arnott air shocks. They work great, but are way too harsh for her. A custom Corbin seat has helped tremendously especially after adding 18" rims. At 5'4" she handels the bike great out on the twisty roads, but without the instant lowering/raising feature of the Arnotts, parking lot maneuvers would still allude her.
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petewerner

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Re: Question on lowering a stock 2010 RG...
« Reply #11 on: February 13, 2012, 02:38:23 PM »

We put the HD front lowering kit in Melanie's '07 SG (non SE) which works fine and is only slightly harsher. I also tried the rear lowering blocks that resulted in an aftermarket seat tab screw digging into the tire. (Solo seat, ornamental screw). After bolt legnth was cut the tire took out the wiring harness so we went with the arnott air shocks. They work great, but are way too harsh for her. A custom Corbin seat has helped tremendously especially after adding 18" rims. At 5'4" she handels the bike great out on the twisty roads, but without the instant lowering/raising feature of the Arnotts, parking lot maneuvers would still allude her.

Which Arnott system. Im guessing u might have followed the same path as I,... U might consider tryng to talk to Bill from Arnott and see what he will do, He gave me full credit for the first set I bought and I went with their nerxt set up, with 11 adjustments. They are really soft, I turned them to a slightly stiffer than stock which is right in the middle of adjustments. I hated how stiff the non adjustable (other than air) were and once I put the 11 way adjustables on, I am a happy camper, handles way better than stock and works for this 29" inseam well!
I hope that I am right and that it is as simple as talking to Bill and paying the difference like it was for me!!
Hope this helps u.
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