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[Alremc]

Anyone heard of changing the oil at 500 mi? I can't recall where I heard or read? I know the 1k all that will happen, thanks!

[sleepybare]

I don't know about everyone else, but when ever I do any mechanical work on my motor, I always change the oil after the first 500 miles and then after the next 1000 just to make sure there are no  contaminates inside the motor....Maybe over kill but it works for me

[grc]

Anyone heard of changing the oil at 500 mi? I can't recall where I heard or read? I know the 1k all that will happen, thanks!

There are plenty of folks who still think it's a good idea to change oil on a new engine or trans at 500 miles.  However, there is no proof I am aware of that doing so makes any meaningful difference in the life or performance of a modern engine.  As a matter of fact, the auto industry dropped their early first oil change requirements a long long time ago, and the ones I'm familiar with have the first change at 5000 or 7500 miles.  Many of the "common wisdom" ideas like the early oil change are carryovers from the days of no oil filters or very rudimentary filters that wouldn't stop anything smaller than a pebble. 

If you decide you must change the fluids at 500 miles, there is absolutely no reason to do it again at 1000 miles.  It will serve no useful purpose and just waste money and resources.


Jerry

[Cvostu]

what are you guys using in the new 100?  i'm thinking about Mobil 1 on the new bike..

[Aussie]

what are you guys using in the new 100?  i'm thinking about Mobil 1 on the new bike..

I have been using Mobil 1 in my 08 Custom and will be using the same in the SG after first service.

[Cvostu]

Will you be using mobil 1 in the primary and the transmission too?

[grc]

Motor oil in the engine, trans lube in the trans, whatever you prefer in the primary as long as it is approved for use with a wet clutch.  The entire "same fluid in all three holes" deal is more of a gimmick than an optimum solution.  When was the last time you put motor oil in the rear axle of your truck or car, for instance?  Different operating conditions, different lubricant properties. 

There are plenty of good choices for the trans, with Redline Shockproof Heavy being very popular among Harley riders but there are also good choices from Golden Spectro, Amsoil, Mobil 1, Formula + from Harley, etc.   Look for a 75w90 for normal use.

Personally, I use ATF in the primary.  An automatic transmission is filled with wet clutches, so obviously ATF is fully compatible with a wet clutch.  I have less clutch drag with ATF than I had with any other fluid I've tried over the years.

btw, when looking at various fluids be aware that the viscosity rating systems for motor oil and gear oil are different.  A 90 wt gear oil is roughly the same actual viscosity as a 50 wt motor oil.


Jerry

[Twolanerider]

I don't know about everyone else, but when ever I do any mechanical work on my motor, I always change the oil after the first 500 miles and then after the next 1000 just to make sure there are no  contaminates inside the motor....Maybe over kill but it works for me

Probably both overkill and "underkill."  An extra oil change isn't going to hurt anything but your wallet just a bit.  So not a big deal and if you're comfortable with it that's great.

On the first change right after major engine work why wait so long though?  Any particulate matter to be picked up is going to be gathered much sooner than 500 miles.  If the purpose of that first change is get any collected matter that results from the work and the engine being opened why leave it in that long?

After a major engine task my routine is to start it with some decent but inexpensive oil in the engine.  The engine will go through a series of heat cycles on the lift.  Once those cycles are done the oil and filter get changed before the bike ever hits the floor.  When it's finally on the floor it's got its "normal" use oil and is on normal change cycles.

[Midnight Rider]

When I got this bike (the '11 SERGU) I did it a little differently than prior bikes.  I did the "break in" the first 50 miles, then dumped the Syn 3, changed the filter, and put Mobil 1 in the crankcase.  I spent about 2 hours putting that first 50 miles on, and dumped the Syn 3 just because I don't like it.  At 1K, I changed to Redline products in all holes...20W50, Shockproof, and MTL.  Also a K&N oil filter...mostly because they are easier to change with the nut welded to the end of the filter.  The 1K service was probably unecessary in the crankcase, but I did it anyway, just to have the records that HD wants for warranty purposes.

I broke this engine in differently than my prior 103".  I did not follow the HD owner's manual guidelines per se, but did it based on some other information I gathered concerning seating the rings properly.  I've not used a drop of oil in the first 5K (actually 4K).

As Jerry mentioned, most of the oil change intervals and "advice" is based on things we had to do back in the bad old days of poorer oil products, less efficient combustion, and not so good oil filters.  I never change oil more often than every 5K on any vehicle nowadays, and haven't for many years, since I stopped owning/driving cars/trucks built in the 60's and 70's, which wasn't all that long ago for me.  The truth is that with synthetics, the intervals could be much, much longer than even the recommended intervals.

[Alremc]

Thanks all for the responses and advice. As this is my first NEW HD and a 110 to boot, I wanted to make sire I am somewhat on the right track as I had my 00 Ultra down pat for maintenence but this brand spankin NEW twin is throwing me for a lil loop. 

[muddypaws]

I did mine at 1000 then again at 5000. I put 50,000 mile on my bikes in just over two years and never had an oil problem. I have tried several brands of oil. On this bike I'm using Redline oils.

[T-Hawk]

I'm certainly no expert on the matter... but I've always understood the first 500 miles meant critical riding behavior to ensure the motor is broken in properly.  Making sure that all the moving parts inside begin to seat up to the standards applied to the specific parts. 

Once you've safely, and dare say, cautiously ridden the first 500 miles, the motor should be able to handle pretty much anything you throw at it. 

I know it worked well for my Wide Glide... as once the first 500 miles were behind me, I abused the throttle/clutch/brakes on many more than one occasion and had zero problems.  Granted it was only the 96cu, but when I traded it at 17,800+ miles later in the 3 years I owned it here in Alaska, it was still running as new.   

[Twolanerider]

I'm certainly no expert on the matter... but I've always understood the first 500 miles meant critical riding behavior to ensure the motor is broken in properly.  Making sure that all the moving parts inside begin to seat up to the standards applied to the specific parts.  

In times past; perhaps.  But if modern machining tolerances are such that for the first 500 miles moving parts are still, basically, wearing in to each other we've got greater issues than just how to treat new oil.  Rings do need a period to gain their seat with the cylinder walls.  Honestly if that hasn't mostly happened in the time it takes the engine to go through a few heat cycles you've also likely got some real issues though.  Modern ring materials are much much better than the wire that was used when we were teenagers.

Then again this is standards as defined by Harley we're discussing.  So all bets are off.  They are the only modern major manufacturer I'm aware who has actually regressed in the applications of their spec's and tolerances.  So, in the end, all we can do to cover our collective butts is probably a good idea.

[Boatman]

Then again this is standards as defined by Harley we're discussing.  So all bets are off.  They are the only modern major manufacturer I'm aware who has actually regressed in the applications of their spec's and tolerances.  So, in the end, all we can do to cover our collective butts is probably a good idea.

Sad but TRUE.

[Midnight Rider]

Personally, I think one of the main reasons HD recommends what they do for the first 500 miles is to keep new owners from crashing by encouraging slower speeds until they get used to the bike. The one thing that is important, IMO, is not to run at a constant RPM for any period of time.  I've just read too many articles saying that in newer engines, with better tolerances, etc, the rings are pretty much seated in about 50 miles, so that's the most critical period of time.  So, on the '11, after it was thoroughly warmed up, I did several 3rd gear runs up to 60mph, then let the engine brake the bike down to 2,000 rpm, then repeat.  Did that for about 25 miles, then stopped, let the motor cool down for 30 minutes or so, then repeated the process, came home, and dumped the oil/filter.  After that, I just watched the constant rpm thing and didn't let that happen by simply downshifting as necessary, and by avoiding interstate runs for the first 500 miles.