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[glens]

If you don't have the capability to modify the bung depth or location, at least in the short term, would you be better to program the bike to run in open loop until you can get it corrected?

It may well be the lesser of two evils to run open-loop.  But you've got to get good samples to determine how to set the open-loop, so unless you've got a reliable sniffer to stuff up the pipe (how's that alter the system flow characteristics?) then you're not any better off, you'd still need to modify/move the bung.

[porthole]

Took some pictures last night.

1st is D&D Fat Cats, ceramic coated inside and out. The ceramic did nothing for the heat but at least the pipes don't turn blue. Although, you can see in this picture that the rear pipe has changed from a satin look to just plain dull.

[porthole]

O2 sensors and plugs

[porthole]

.

[porthole]

Rear pipe with the sensor indexed to installed position

[porthole]

Front pipe. I think I might have mixed the sensors between front and back now that I have looked at the pics, will have to double check tomorrow.

[porthole]

From what I can see, only 1/2 the tip is in the stream, the front pipe has an obvious pocket downstream of the sensor that is formed by the pipe and bung. No so much with the rear.

[porthole]

The bungs have a decent amount of thread, I could probably cut a 1/4" off and still have the O2 sensors threads completely covered.

If that is something that might work I may attempt to try and jig this up to my buddies bridgeport. Don't think I want to try it with a hack saw.

Plan B is to put the old V&H true dual ovals back on and sell the EMS and the Fat Cats. The only reason I have left the Fat Cats on is for the looks, shows off the chrome pulley and belt guard. Personally, I do not see any low end improvement with them.

Losing the heat that comes off that back pipe would be a bonus.

[Steve Cole]

One thing you can do to cut them down is to use a store bought 1" Counter Bore tool with a pilot. To do this you need to make a plug for the threaded bung. I could not find a set screw so what I did was to take a bolt and cut the threaded area off. I drilled a hole down the center of this threaded part just a little bigger than the pilot in the tool. I then took a hacksaw and cut a slot across one end to fit a big screwdriver. With the Counter bore tool in a battery powered drill I screw the plug down into the bung and then place the tool into the centering hole and slowly cut the bung down. When finished I use a Datsun Oil drain plug (it was the right size) and tighten it in place and look to see if I've got the end square. A few cuts with a flat file, if needed clean it right up. I would cut your down since you have it off, as its only going to help from the looks of your pictures.

The fact that the plating is going away on the rear would say that it's running hotter than the front for sure.

[glens]

Can you sell the EMS?

FWIW the V&H pipes in general are rather notorious for bung-wrongness.

I saw a post on a forum somewhere a while back where a guy took a bung plug and machined it to act as a pilot for a tool to machine down squarely the end of the bung with a drill.  The hex in the plug remained for insertion/removal.  I don't know how kind a bung-shortening will be to the ceramic coating...

[porthole]

So, do you think setting the sensors in the pipe a 1/4" deeper would make a difference?

If repositioning (cutting the old and welding the new) is the only correct option, I will put the old pipes back on.
But if setting them deeper is a viable option I found counter bores with variable pilots on the McMaster Carr site.

The pipes are not plated. Although the color has changed, there seems to be no degrading of the material.
And it is not blue or purple.

I'll look closer tomorrow, at what I can cut.

[porthole]

Can you sell the EMS?

Why not? It is a bolt on item, and I used an extra ECM when I installed it. Still have my original ECM with the SE Race Tuner installed.

FWIW the V&H pipes in general are rather notorious for bung-wrongness.

If I go that route (V&H's are in the basement) it will be "bung-less" and a non loop system.

I saw a post on a forum somewhere a while back where a guy took a bung plug and machined it to act as a pilot for a tool to machine down squarely the end of the bung with a drill.  The hex in the plug remained for insertion/removal.  I don't know how kind a bung-shortening will be to the ceramic coating...

When the pipes were coated, the plugs were in, so there is no coating on the surface that would be cut.

[Steve Cole]

A 1/4" is a pretty big amount when it comes to O2 sensor position. I have heard of others cutting down  D&D's with good results so, if its not a big deal for you to do it is definitely worth trying. The fact that the color went dull is the sign of higher heat on your rear pipe. It a common deal when the ceramic coating get overheated is goes to a flat/dull looking color. If you keep pushing on it with heat it then starts getting powdery on the surface. I think I had to give about $35 for a cutter. I found it on the net but cannot remember where

[porthole]

I need to grind out the inside of the front pipe too. From what it looks like the sensor was actually touching the pipe.

[Steve Cole]

Is the pipe inside the diameter of the threaded area of the mounting bung? If so, then yes it should be cleared out of the way