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Author Topic: Wiring spots to stay on with brights  (Read 6833 times)

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Eqcons

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2007, 05:55:20 AM »

While that's true, the spots wouldn't come on if you lost the headlights.  But then they'd probably already be on, because that was the point in the first place, to be able to run them 24/7.  So since they're drawing from a different fuse than the headlights, they would still be on if the headlight fuse blew.  More importantly, you've now also taken the spots load off the headlight fuse, so the chances of it blowing are greatly reduced! ;)

I did mine this way, feeding them off the fender tip light lead, but they still go out if the lighting fuse blows, they are on the same one!  (Don't ask how I know...)  Luckily I have the HID headlamp, so low beam stays on on that.

Jim
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Ferromet

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2010, 11:23:36 PM »

There is an easier way... I didn't come up with this but found it on one of these forums last year and did it on my '09 CVO Ultra...

Here goes:


You might want to try this. It's a trick I've used on the last 4 Ultras I've owned giving better night riding visability and it allows your passing lamps to stay on in both high and low beam mode.

One important thing for those who use their garage door opener. This method will cause you to lose the use of your opener. So if you use this method and still want to use your opener you will need to take off your front fairing and reroute the garage door opener lead into one of the dash toggle switches. The easiest method is to reroute into the horn button from the dimmer switch. Just means you will give a short honk every time you open or close the garage door.     


HEADLIGHT TRICK

Open the left handlebar switchbox, and free the dimmer switch. There are three wires going to it: blue, yellow, and white. Cut the yellow wire about 3/4" from the switch, and tape or heat-shrink this stub. Now, simply splice the yellow wire onto the blue wire, insulate it, and put it all back together. Be careful not to pinch any wires when you tighten up the switchbox screws. Now when you switch to highbeam both high and low beams will stay on giving you better visability and as long your dash spot switch is turned on your passing lamps will also stay on with either low and high beam too.
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Twolanerider

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #17 on: June 13, 2010, 03:14:27 AM »


HEADLIGHT TRICK

Open the left handlebar switchbox, and free the dimmer switch. There are three wires going to it: blue, yellow, and white. Cut the yellow wire about 3/4" from the switch, and tape or heat-shrink this stub. Now, simply splice the yellow wire onto the blue wire, insulate it, and put it all back together. Be careful not to pinch any wires when you tighten up the switchbox screws. Now when you switch to highbeam both high and low beams will stay on giving you better visability and as long your dash spot switch is turned on your passing lamps will also stay on with either low and high beam too.



More than one way to rewire the lights; in fact there are several.  Just for me though I'd much rather quickly take the fairing off and have easy access than noodle around inside the handlebar switch housing.  Need my glasses to work in there and that's annoying (and too easy to crimp something).
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mrmagloo

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #18 on: June 13, 2010, 08:52:35 AM »

Here's a simple wiring diagram for those that want to switch the lights....
This is a great diagram, but where do you find these connections? Anyone have any photos? TIA!
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Ferromet

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #19 on: June 13, 2010, 10:22:42 PM »


More than one way to rewire the lights; in fact there are several.  Just for me though I'd much rather quickly take the fairing off and have easy access than noodle around inside the handlebar switch housing.  Need my glasses to work in there and that's annoying (and too easy to crimp something).


Just thought I'd throw this method out there.  The entire thing in the switch housing took about 5 minutes.
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mrmagloo

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Re: Wiring spots to stay on with brights
« Reply #20 on: June 13, 2010, 10:24:44 PM »


Just thought I'd throw this method out there.  The entire thing in the switch housing took about 5 minutes.

Thanks - I read that, but can't do without my garage door opener. I'd like to learn the other route in the illustration.
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2004 SE Deuce - Cobalt Blue
2006 SE Ultra Classic - Autumn Haze
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