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[cuthbertss]

OK;
I was in the midst of mentally preparing a road trip report when....  [smiley=angry.gif]
short version, took a wonderful road trip to South Fork, Mesa Verde , Silverton, Ouray..lots of twisties and bendies.....I was coming over engineer pass ( one hell of a trip by the way!)
and on a tight downward spiral when i got a chitload of lit up dash lights..engine and batt warnings... pulled up in Ouray and she was idling around 2k.  shut her down and that was all she wrote...
(called PPHD and did some homework with the tech... electrical problem)
called HOG, and got the same BS that Duke got about the hunnerd dollah tow... so I called Progressive Insurance...  they cover tow to to nearest "qualified" mech ( in this case, Grand Junction HD)  same tow, same tow company 500 less out of my pocket!
anyway, tow co sends out the owners bike trailer and off we go to GJ HD...  they don't wrench on Monday....  but a few well placed calls to the right people ....and low and behold, mechanics are actually there...  
they do a quick check, electrical problem, parts on hand, we can sort it out in the am....  and heres a used FLHTPI to get around on.....  so today I arrive at the appointed time to pick up my steed..and , "we have bad news "
i'm drawing a blank on the actual part names right now......  but there is a gear of some sort that seats in a larger gear that had come loose and tore the rotor apart
{ for the CC riders i mentioned this to, the mystery grinding on mountain roads is now solved}

anyway.....these parts have to ordered, bike down for a week.......so, oh, and by the way inner primary is leaking ....
heres the part that bugs me....  perhaps someone can help with experience on this one.....
the main shaft gears have been chewed up......  techs tell me they can "salvage" it. and document the repair for future warranty.  I ask why not replace it.....  warranty and all... they say the engine would have to go back to HD for review and repair,...im sure they are being up front and i believe they can fix it....  but i really dont like the idea of it being "salvaged" any thoughts on the next step here?

anyone got a diagram so i can figger out the correct part names? i know I look like an ass, but its been a long day.....  [smiley=stunned.gif] [smiley=zwtf.gif]

maybe tomorrow I can get the trip report done, cuz til that point it was an awesome ride....  
Im just glad the old girl didnt chit out in douible switchback 8 degree donwslope and throw me over the cliff  

BTW 7451 on  [smiley=sad2.gif]the odometer...  

[VaEagle]

Wow cuthbertss,
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
Wish I could help on the parts for you but I will defer to the mechanics on the site to help you.

Good luck and I hope you get on the road soon. 8-)

[cuthbertss]

Thanks, I appreciate it.....  also ADMINISTRATOR..i noticed that I posted this in the wrong place...  my blood pressure is calming down now  and I Can See...can someone move this to the FLHTCSE2 forum please?
thanks!

[arcticdude]

What probably happened is the stator, which is "geared onto the end of the crank came loose.  This will cause it to wobble and hit the rotor which is stationary inside of the spinning stator, thereby destroying the rotor.  This takes out the regulator (usually) becuase of the electrical shorting occurring in the rotor as it gets torn up by the wobbling stator.  The stator is nothing more than a "bucket" with several magnets epoxied around the inside walls.  The geared center is riveted to the outer ring where the magnets are- that's probably what they're talking about coming loose.  As it spins around the rotor, the spinning magnetic fields create a current flow in the windings of the rotor, thus producing the electricity necessary to power these electrical hogs.  The crank should be of much harder material than the stator, so it (the crank) should only have minor markings on the ridges of the "gear teeth".  The stator and rotor are new for 06, but the should be able to "down bike" the repairs and get your parts in much faster than a week.  Unless, of course, the factory is out of them as well and the chinese just aren't making them fast enough!!  Hope they get it fixed soon.  These are known to go typically anywhere's from 7500 miles to 75000 miles.  No rhyme or reason, they just go.  $1000 when they do.  At least they're most of the way into the inner primary seals, so it's not too much more laber $ to fix that (those) leaks.

[cuthbertss]

What probably happened is the stator, which is "geared onto the end of the crank came loose.  This will cause it to wobble and hit the rotor which is stationary inside of the spinning stator, thereby destroying the rotor.  This takes out the regulator (usually) becuase of the electrical shorting occurring in the rotor as it gets torn up by the wobbling stator.  The stator is nothing more than a "bucket" with several magnets epoxied around the inside walls.  The geared center is riveted to the outer ring where the magnets are- that's probably what they're talking about coming loose.  As it spins around the rotor, the spinning magnetic fields create a current flow in the windings of the rotor, thus producing the electricity necessary to power these electrical hogs.  The crank should be of much harder material than the stator, so it (the crank) should only have minor markings on the ridges of the "gear teeth".  The stator and rotor are new for 06, but the should be able to "down bike" the repairs and get your parts in much faster than a week.  Unless, of course, the factory is out of them as well and the chinese just aren't making them fast enough!!  Hope they get it fixed soon.  These are known to go typically anywhere's from 7500 miles to 75000 miles.  No rhyme or reason, they just go.  $1000 when they do.  At least they're most of the way into the inner primary seals, so it's not too much more laber $ to fix that (those) leaks.

Arctic;
Thanks for the mechanic class....this sounds about right.... they showed me all the broke chit, and i had em tell the part names about 14 times....but that was about 500 miles ago... and didnt want to use technical terms like doohickie and whats its......

[cuthbertss]

What probably happened is the stator, which is "geared onto the end of the crank came loose.  This will cause it to wobble and hit the rotor which is stationary inside of the spinning stator, thereby destroying the rotor.  This takes out the regulator (usually) becuase of the electrical shorting occurring in the rotor as it gets torn up by the wobbling stator.  The stator is nothing more than a "bucket" with several magnets epoxied around the inside walls.  The geared center is riveted to the outer ring where the magnets are- that's probably what they're talking about coming loose.  As it spins around the rotor, the spinning magnetic fields create a current flow in the windings of the rotor, thus producing the electricity necessary to power these electrical hogs.  The crank should be of much harder material than the stator, so it (the crank) should only have minor markings on the ridges of the "gear teeth".  The stator and rotor are new for 06, but the should be able to "down bike" the repairs and get your parts in much faster than a week.  Unless, of course, the factory is out of them as well and the chinese just aren't making them fast enough!!  Hope they get it fixed soon.  These are known to go typically anywhere's from 7500 miles to 75000 miles.  No rhyme or reason, they just go.  $1000 when they do.  At least they're most of the way into the inner primary seals, so it's not too much more laber $ to fix that (those) leaks.

and, i forgot to mention its all under warranty at this point so.... i guess thats a bright spot

[arcticdude]

Arctic;
Thanks for the mechanic class....this sounds about right.... they showed me all the broke chit, and i had em tell the part names about 14 times....but that was about 500 miles ago... and didnt want to use technical terms like doohickie and whats its......

I'll bet if you asked for a doohickie and a whats it, you'd get just what you need!! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]

Realized you're on a SEEG, so I may be off on the stator/rotor being new.  I don't have an 05 parts catalog, just the 01 and the 06.  Your dealer is holding back on paying the extra freight to get you the parts earlier.  On the other hand, you can be doing all your other trip preparations without having to be thinking about what you need to do to the bike! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]

[cuthbertss]

They are over nighting the parts..but im footing the bill....warranty apparently wont cover the 40 bucks or whatever, and i wasnt in the mood to argue..i just want it done... "should" be ready Saturday..but im at the other end of state til then anyway....maybe when i get back up there i can argue about the freight thing

[geezerglide]

Cuthberts,,

HD had problems with the Stack Up Tolerances on the Compensator Nut.

The nut would back off and their would be a grinding type noise in the Primary Area, if not addressed would cause a lot of damage.

My Compensating Nut got loose and did damage to the engine, however no where near what yours was. My was repaired under warranty. At that time.

This was a well known issue with HD see the attached Service Bulletin TT122 date october 29, 2003. And they still continue to have this problem, although not as often.

I would take the attached and present to Service Manager or Owner and asked to be reimbursued.

geezerglide

[cuthbertss]

Cuthberts,,

HD had problems with the Stack Up Tolerances on the Compensator Nut.

The nut would back off and their would be a grinding type noise in the Primary Area, if not addressed would cause a lot of damage.

My Compensating Nut got loose and did damage to the engine, however no where near what yours was. My was repaired under warranty. At that time.

This was a well known issue with HD see the attached Service Bulletin TT122 date october 29, 2003. And they still continue to have this problem, although not as often.

I would take the attached and present to Service Manager or Owner and asked to be reimbursued.

geezerglide

Geez:

thanks for the update..i believe this is part of the culprit, but the attachment got cut off...  the bike is still under warranty but the Overnite shipping of parts apparently isn't..small potatoes really.... the frustrating thing i have brought the grind to the attention of several mechs who shrugged ....  that could have in fact prevented this damage..  

[Twolanerider]

This sucks Scot.  Sorry to read of the problem.  As Geezerglide detailed the loose compensator nut isn't a new thing.  For a couple years it seemed real common but Harley seemed to have gotten a handle on the problem.  Our bikes happened to fall in production while it was still more of an issue.  Here are a couple of parts manual breakdowns that show some of the pieces you likely shredded:

[Twolanerider]

and....

This drawing has a weird perspective.  Just note that you're looking at the parts not from the perspective of the side of the bike looking in but as if you between the engine and the parts looking out.

[Twolanerider]

Scot,

The compensator nut problem was enough of a problem that the aftermarket even began developing alternatives before Harley divined their fix.  Here was one that got decent reviews for awhile; just to see what some of the options were:  Click on "Comp-Nut Lock" in the far right column of their home page here:

http://www.emcv2.com/

[geezerglide]

Cuthberts,

Here is a better scan. Hopes this helps getting you warranty.

geezerglide

[cuthbertss]

Scot,

The compensator nut problem was enough of a problem that the aftermarket even began developing alternatives before Harley divined their fix.  Here was one that got decent reviews for awhile; just to see what some of the options were:  Click on "Comp-Nut Lock" in the far right column of their home page here:

http://www.emcv2.com/

Thanks!
I also recruited a new member , the SERK in the photos belongs to a gent from FArmington, apparently also has a SED ; VIBR8TR i think was the handle he wanted to use