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[loubob]

Recently had my bike start, run 2 seconds and then quit along with all lighting. Waited 2-3 minutes then tried bike and again did same thing. Third time all went well. Diagnostic check showed  codes:  "P"--No Rsp and later P 1003, "S"--b 1155(later cleared), "SP"--b 1006, "t"--b 1006.

Local HD service mgr. thinks battery ng and said I left battery tender on too long and kept charge too high(?).  Long time tech believes it's the battery but can't be sure until he can check it out.

Battery checked by a friend and amp was vg and held up well with stress test. Indicator never got close to neg. reading.

My question is do I get a new battery and try that, or let the dealer "play" with it.  I just hate the thought of spending $100 for a new battery on my 2 year old sesg &/or $4-500 at the dealership.

Any thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance!
 

 

[loubob]

I am referring to the DTC's.

b 1155---Security system module

b 1006---speedometer,mph

b1006---tach

p 1003---System relay Contacts Open

Thanks

[AXIL]

  If every thing goes out i would first look at battery cables. check both ends of each cable. then move on to the
battery and charging system with the proper equipment so you can read volts, amps and dtc's.

[JKM]

as mentioned I would clean the battery cables at the battery and the starter, then move to changing out the battery.  Battery is cheap at $100 and your current battery is probably already through half its life (assuming 4 year life) so only giving up about 1/2 the price of the battery when you think of it that way.  Lost riding time is worth way more than a battery!

[HOGMIKE]

Recently had my bike start, run 2 seconds and then quit along with all lighting. Waited 2-3 minutes then tried bike and again did same thing. Third time all went well. Diagnostic check showed  codes:  "P"--No Rsp and later P 1003, "S"--b 1155(later cleared), "SP"--b 1006, "t"--b 1006.

Local HD service mgr. thinks battery ng and said I left battery tender on too long and kept charge too high(?).  Long time tech believes it's the battery but can't be sure until he can check it out.

Battery checked by a friend and amp was vg and held up well with stress test. Indicator never got close to neg. reading.

My question is do I get a new battery and try that, or let the dealer "play" with it.  I just hate the thought of spending $100 for a new battery on my 2 year old sesg &/or $4-500 at the dealership.

Any thoughts or suggestions?  Thanks in advance!
 

 

Seems to me you are under warranty, let the dealer sort it all out!
 

[loubob]

I agree about being under warranty and I even have the full 7 year extended one.

The problem is that I did not buy the bike from the local dealer and in talking with the service mgr. he stated that the labor charges to locate the problem are not covered. I'm going to check w/H-D on monday.

When travelling with the bike, in the trailer, I leave the fob on the bike. The shop foreman said that going over bumps,etc. makes the alarm wanting to activate and the fob negates it. Said I should leave it in transport mode. I don't buy that either

Thanks for the suggestions and I will be checking the cables next week.

Which battery is better: Interstate or Deka???

Thanks..........Loubob 

[sadunbar]

I agree about being under warranty and I even have the full 7 year extended one.

The problem is that I did not buy the bike from the local dealer and in talking with the service mgr. he stated that the labor charges to locate the problem are not covered. I'm going to check w/H-D on monday.



Thanks..........Loubob 

Read your warranty.  Then read the warranty to the service manager.  I think you'll find he's mistaken.

[CVOfan]

I agree about being under warranty and I even have the full 7 year extended one.

The problem is that I did not buy the bike from the local dealer and in talking with the service mgr. he stated that the labor charges to locate the problem are not covered. I'm going to check w/H-D on monday.

When travelling with the bike, in the trailer, I leave the fob on the bike. The shop foreman said that going over bumps,etc. makes the alarm wanting to activate and the fob negates it. Said I should leave it in transport mode. I don't buy that either

Thanks for the suggestions and I will be checking the cables next week.

Which battery is better: Interstate or Deka???

Thanks..........Loubob 

So you're supposed to pay them to figure out what's wrong so they can fix it under warranty?  That sounds like your typical friendly neighborhood dealer service.   

[grc]

I agree about being under warranty and I even have the full 7 year extended one.

The problem is that I did not buy the bike from the local dealer and in talking with the service mgr. he stated that the labor charges to locate the problem are not covered. I'm going to check w/H-D on monday.

When travelling with the bike, in the trailer, I leave the fob on the bike. The shop foreman said that going over bumps,etc. makes the alarm wanting to activate and the fob negates it. Said I should leave it in transport mode. I don't buy that either

Thanks for the suggestions and I will be checking the cables next week.

Which battery is better: Interstate or Deka???

Thanks..........Loubob 

You are on the right track, call H-D direct and bypass that thief posing as a service manager.  When there is an obvious problem, diagnostic time is indeed covered by the warranty.  The fact that there are DTC's stored in the ECM is proof of a problem, and you are not responsible for paying them to scratch their butts while trying to figure out what lies to tell you next.  As for all the other BS about battery tenders or transport mode, it is just that, BS.

If there is any other dealer within reasonable riding distance, you really need to think long and hard about never darkening this dealers door again.  And you might just want to mention that to the dealer himself.  Maybe if he finds he is losing sales or potential sales because of the idiot he has running the shop, he might do something about that little problem.  Unless of course the service manager is his kid or his wife's deadbeat brother or some other political appointee (common situation in a lot of dealerships). 

Good luck.


Jerry

[loubob]

There is another dealer about 40 miles away. I will call him and see what his reaction is. I'd prefer to take it there anyway.
Will post results.

[loubob]

Battery tested excellent.
Cleaned all cable ends except the one to the starter.
2 codes remain: 'SP'...#b1006   speedo,mph
                        't'.....#b1006   tach

Will set up appt. wth dealer 100+ miles away.

I don't trust the local and if I complain to H-D I can't tell what they might do or how long they would take. 

[06ULTRASE]

When you find out please posy here I have the same problem.       I never thought about the battery, since mine is a 09 it's a good bet that maybe it since it only seem to happen at start up.

[loubob]

I have to bring the bike in on 6/04.

Talked with a tech, or service advisor today. He said it might be the ecm just needs to be reset on the computer.

Will post results here on 6/04 or 6/05.

I had the battery checked in, & out of the bike. Battery is very very good.  Do the same with yours before you spend any $$ on a new battery. With a battery tender I've had them last 6-9 years.

Also clean all cable, & wire connections to the battery and coat them with dielectric grease.

[TexasBowhunter]

FWIW
My daughters Chevy truck kept throwing a bunch of codes
from air ti electrical to fuel codes of one form or another...
kept changing parts to try and fix the problem with no avail...
turns out it was the cat that was all stopped up...
Burned a hole with a torch ahead of the cat
once the hole was cut the molten steel then shot back into the mechanics face indicating that the cat was all stopped up...
if the flame and molten steel had been sucked into the hole and not blown back into there face the cat would have been ruled out...
the truck would run on half the cylinders most all the time and act like the charging system wasn't charging...or not want to run at all...
Don't know what year yours is or the miles on it or the quaility of fuel you are getting but FFT
paul

[porthole]

turns out it was the cat that was all stopped up...
Burned a hole with a torch ahead of the cat
once the hole was cut the molten steel then shot back into the mechanics face indicating that the cat was all stopped up...
if the flame and molten steel had been sucked into the hole and not blown back into there face the cat would have been ruled out...

Now there is a guy I don't want working on my vehicles  

As to the OP, even a battery that "checks out" good can cause problems with the electrical system. Not saying that is your problem, but in my former career I have seen that quite a few times.
Sensitive electrical systems need quality, clean power.