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[Mr John DEUFF]

Hi guys,
I bought my bike two years ago and now it has 31000 miles (I rode 20000 of them) and now I am wondering if I need to look at some special things on it or if I should change something preventively?
I had no real problem since I've got it and I would like that it goes on like that.

My bike is an 110" Ultra CVO from 2007 (the cursed one  ) with a Vance & Hines true dual and monster oval slip-on.

[Mrs Rooster]

 Keep Ridin'    Don't fix what ain't broke!! It looks like you drew the long straw on the 2007 

[Pete7539]

On the HD website, on top of the page next to dealer locator is "owners" select that, then on the left side of page will be "maintain your bike". Select that and then you either create a user name or enter your VIN and it will post recalls and product programs that were applicable to your specific bike. I looked on mine and it said that the fuel filter shell recall had been completed. It also listed the product notice for the new heads, but did not say whether or not it was done because it was not a recall. I know I've had mine done, so if I were you and it is listed for your bike, call HD with your VIN and see if it was performed. I'd think that they'd have to have record of it especially since it wasn't an inexpensive "product program" for them.

[Mr John DEUFF]

Thanks for your answer Pete, I've been on the site and sign in, but the maintenance schedules stop at 25 000 miles. When must we check or change the chain tensioners and the oil pump.

[dayne66]

Probably a good idea to flush the brakes...not just bleed.

[Midnight Rider]

Thanks for your answer Pete, I've been on the site and sign in, but the maintenance schedules stop at 25 000 miles. When must we check or change the chain tensioners and the oil pump.

You will probably have to call the MOCO to find out for sure if your "product enhancement" was performed.  IF there's nothing wrong with the crankshaft, the oil pump should be fine, and the tensioners on your bike don't wear like they did on the '06 and earlier models.  If you don't have a warranty (ESP) and want to be proactive, you could go into the cam chest and check everything out, and replace the lifters for good measure.  Really all depends on when they did the recall on the bike.

[Indenial]

I would strongly suggest replacing the lifter bearings. They are $30@ X4. I had one go out and it ruined my engine. I had 30,000 on it.  They blamed it on Amsoil, but that's another story.  Needed a complete rebuild for $4K. I'll be changing them at every 15K now.

[Mr John DEUFF]

Thank you all for all your precious advices.
The replacement of the rear cylinder head had be done before I bought it, so normally there is not other recall on my bike (I've not seen other).
@ Indenial: I can't find out where are the lifter bearings that you're talking about.

[timo482]

right side above the cams

im planning on changing mine this coming winter - some days i worry i should have done it last winter - i had 21000 on it the last service in march - and im riding about 90 miles a day - easy 30000 miles by fall - i might chicken out and do it over a holiday weekend

its a fairly straight forward job, not a lot of parts to do other than the lifters - way way too tempting to change the cam while its apart - but to do the lifters the cams do not even have to be removed. should be able to do at home in a long day following the directions.

*sigh*

to

[Mr John DEUFF]

I might be idiot but I'm still not sure what lifter bearings are??
Can someone tell me if it's on the following picture?And where is it?

[CVOThunder]

They're the needle roller bearings in item 32. This isn't really a good photo to work from and show you what's in there. Basically you have a center pin and an inner bearing race, then roller bearings housed in an outer bearing race. The outer part of the bearing race rotates as it rides on the camshaft and if the needle bearings gall up and seize then the outer race locks up. Since it is in direct contact with the camshaft it starts wearing down the cam lobe (grinds is probably a better term) and starts sending metal fragments into the rest of the engine. If I can find a good break down photo I'll post it.

If I got it wrong please correct my post.

[Mr John DEUFF]

OK I see but to change this bearing do you have to remove the header or can it be done easily?

[HOGMIKE]

OK I see but to change this bearing do you have to remove the header or can it be done easily?

To change the complete lifter assembly you will have to remove  your pushrods, either by cutting them out, or removing the valve cover and rocker assembly.
The lifter blocks can be removed and the lifters pulled up out of the case.
You don't have to remove a stock header to do this.
A service manual will be a great help.
 

[Mr John DEUFF]

A service manual will be a great help.
 

Yes I think so! I have to find one in french! Is the special add-on for CVO is necessary or the touring one is enough?

[Indenial]

Here is a pic of what they look like.  The fractured fourth one is at Amsoil for evaluation.