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[Hot.dog]

I need some advice from you guys. I came off of a Vrod so I know very little about the 110 in my se street glide. At the moment it is at the dealership being tuned(air cleaner, exhaust, sepst). They called and said it did 90.8hp on their dyno. He said for 1,100 more they would put cams in it and get it up over 100hp. How do these numbers and this price sound? I'm just trying not to get taken advantage of. thanks in advance

[Diese1nut]

Hot Dog,

Honestly it really depends on if you are happy with the bike the way it is or not. I had a bad experience with a cam install but my problem is not that common. It was an installer error that cost me the motor so to speak.

Cams are roughly around $350 to 450 depending on what you get and you will want to do the bearings at the same time. Then you will need adjustable push rods and new tubes. Probably around 700 in parts give or take. Plus install labor and you would need to see if they are going to charge you for another Dyno.

There is a lot to think about. Remember it can be done any time.

[HOGMIKE]

I need some advice from you guys. I came off of a Vrod so I know very little about the 110 in my se street glide. At the moment it is at the dealership being tuned(air cleaner, exhaust, sepst). They called and said it did 90.8hp on their dyno. He said for 1,100 more they would put cams in it and get it up over 100hp. How do these numbers and this price sound? I'm just trying not to get taken advantage of. thanks in advance

With your add-on's and the stock cams, you should be at 100 now.
Depends a lot on the tune, dyno operator, dyno, etc, but, most SE's around here on the dyno will do that magic 100+
Check out the maps some have posted here, and you will get an idea of where you should be.
JMHO
 

[10SE5]

why would they change the air cleaner? doesn't it already come with a ventilator?

[HogHvn]

no need to change the ac

[bigdave110]

It does come with a high flow A/C so the only reason to change it would be for aesthetic reasons.

As for the price to do the work, it seems pretty fair.
Although most guys may tell you to take it to a independent shop to get the work done if you know anyone.

Good luck with mods and ride safe.

Big Dave

[lilcoot]

$1100 seems to be reasonable.  That's exactly what I paid.  Make sure that price includes all the extras, like bearings, lifters, and cam chest parts.

Just my opinion, but I would never have a stealer do a dyno tune.   

Dan

[Unbalanced]

With just Exhaust and tune you should be at somewhere around 105 -110 tq and 85-95 hp.      Granted a given day a given dyno, dyno operator this will vary slightly.   

The key here is getting a cam that appeases where ride and that it compliments where you ride.    Be sure to ask the rpm range where you will get gains and decide if that is what your after.    See if they have a dynosheet with this combination and cams from a 110 you can compare before taking the plunge.   This is the reason a lot of people have gone aftermarket to get the power where they want it.

[miker]

Or just just ride the paint of it....

[Doc 1]

I've said it a thousand times and I will say it again....numbers mean nothing. The kid tuning your bike or the dealership that is doing the work is more worried about your horse power than your torque. I never say a 110 with a pipe install get over 100 hp, Harry is correct, the HP is in the range of 85/95 depending on the pipe and tune.....NEVER over 100 in SAE correction factor. They want to install a cam to get the numbers higher in the HP range however you will pay a HUGE price at 2000 to 3000 rpm with the torque. This 2000/3000 rpm is where you ride all day long so this is where you want your power to be....Horse power numbers happen at 5500/6000 rpms....how long do you ride there? I would venture to say your dealer wants to install the 259E since this is the latest rage in most dealers and it will get you over the 100 hp mark but you will loose 15/20 ft lbs of torque down low where you ride ALL day long. Numbers mean nothing....look at the torque line. There is NOT another cam on the market that will deliver as much torque where you ride as the stock SE 255 cam. If you want to spend the $1100.00 do head work and keep the compression low for the stock 255 cam and you will be VERY surprized what that will do for the power band.
Doc

[HD Street Performance]

Agreed 100%
Plus IMHO the 110 falls harder and faster than the OEM 96 or 103". It takes a lot of expense and a great pipe and tune to recapture that lost torque.

[Midnight Rider]

Most numbers you see around here with exhaust change and decent tune, as stated earlier, are going to be around 94HP/110TQ, plus or minus 2 or so.  IMO, those numbers are quite respectable for a stock engine.  I have no complaints with the stock cams in my 110 as compared to my '06 103".  The TQ is right where I ride 90% of the time.  The ONLY thing that would make me want to change the cams in this motor would be to help the efficiency with regards to the intake/exhaust valve operation, but I would not want the TQ band any further to the right than it is.  I do not understand why the A/C was changed by the dealer unless you just do not like the looks of the Ventilator that comes stock on the bike.  Otherwise, you got nothing for that money spent.  If they just changed out the stock filter medium for the HD (K&N) version, you did not gain any air flow, but you do have a "better" filter for longevity.  IMO, the thing to be most concerned with is how well the bike was tuned with regards to drivability.

Coming off a Vrod, you may be used to a different animal with shift points/RPM...with a Vrod, your power is from 4K to 8K.  Rarely is it necessary to shift a 110 at more than 4K for what I would consider "agressive" riding...unless you like to drag race, HP on a 110 means little.  It's all about the TQ and where it lives.  When riding hard through curvy roads, 2300 to 4000 is a good place to be on a bagger, IMO.

[HD Street Performance]

Search L/D regarding port flow and you will have a good reason to be careful with cam timing. A gear change may be in order too to change the personality to suit your needs

[bigdave110]

Most numbers you see around here with exhaust change and decent tune, as stated earlier, are going to be around 94HP/110TQ, plus or minus 2 or so.  IMO, those numbers are quite respectable for a stock engine.  I have no complaints with the stock cams in my 110 as compared to my '06 103".  The TQ is right where I ride 90% of the time.  The ONLY thing that would make me want to change the cams in this motor would be to help the efficiency with regards to the intake/exhaust valve operation, but I would not want the TQ band any further to the right than it is.  I do not understand why the A/C was changed by the dealer unless you just do not like the looks of the Ventilator that comes stock on the bike.  Otherwise, you got nothing for that money spent.  If they just changed out the stock filter medium for the HD (K&N) version, you did not gain any air flow, but you do have a "better" filter for longevity.  IMO, the thing to be most concerned with is how well the bike was tuned with regards to drivability.

Coming off a Vrod, you may be used to a different animal with shift points/RPM...with a Vrod, your power is from 4K to 8K.  Rarely is it necessary to shift a 110 at more than 4K for what I would consider "agressive" riding...unless you like to drag race, HP on a 110 means little.  It's all about the TQ and where it lives.  When riding hard through curvy roads, 2300 to 4000 is a good place to be on a bagger, IMO.

I agree.
I left the factory cams in this new bike Jerry, and I just love them
Had the S&S cams in the last to, liked them, but the power was to far to the right.
Not sure how I am going to be when summer heat hits, we will see.
But the torque down low is great.
I advanced timing in a few spots and it jumps real nice with the bsr.
Not messing with this one other then the pipe and tune.
So far so good.

Big Dave