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[Midnight Rider]

The front fork assembly on a stock HD (no matter if it's a CVO or whatever) does not respond to the road surface well enough to keep the tire in constant contact with the pavement.  You cannot perceive this, but it's happening.  Investing in good suspension for your bike will be the best thing you can do to it.  It will vastly enhance your riding experience, make the bike more predictable, and make the bike safer, if for no other reason than stopping the dramatic nose dive when applying the front brake...it disproportionately loads the front tire and takes too much load off the rear tire, rendering it almost useless.  Not to mention the fact that when the front fork is compressed to that degree, it is even less able to respond to any irregularity in the road surface.

[snooper]

Thanks Gents,

It all makes perfect sense. Suspension and shield... I'm discovering a whole new world here.. Any make and model at "reasonable price" for the suspension ?
Thanks again.

[Midnight Rider]

Progressive Monotubes for the front.  Rear shocks...Progressive makes several models, but I would not go with anything less than the 440 series.  Works Shocks also makes some nice ones and a few people here seem to like them.  Bitubo (Made in Italy) are for sure good ones.  Ohlin also makes a couple of different shocks for the FLH bikes.  I think Works builds the shocks based on your particular needs regarding weight, loads, etc.

For normal type shocks, the only ones I have personal experience with are Bitubo, and they are excellent.  The best front suspension you can buy comes from Traxxion Dynamics, but would be impractical for you due to your location.  Second choice would be Progressive Monotubes.  In US dollars, the Monotubes are $250-$300, and the better rear shocks will be $650-$950 for the pair...pricing is dependent on how many features the shock has, like Dual Rate Springs as opposed to Single rate; Rebound damping adjustment; Compression Damping adjustment; Preload adjustment.  Not counting installation charges.  The rear shocks are easy, but the front fork is another ball game, so you may have to get your shop to do that for you, depending on your skills and tools.

[Alremc]

I think you'll find the turbulence has little or nothing to do with the screen, unfortunately (I do have a screen of the type meant to smooth the air around your head, but turbulence, though reduced, is still a problem at speed - shakes your head enough to give double vision.)

The problem, I'm almost certain, is with the current legshield design, and the buffeting comes up from there.   I also have one of the air baffle things that goes between the forks, but that makes little difference.  What I think WILL help, is to modify a pair of the FLTR wind deflectors to fit your bike. (It can be done!)  Not the prettiest things in the world, but not that easily noticed, and if they cure the problem......
 Jim

Eqcons hit this right on the head, literally! I came from a 2K Ultra and now whittling at the issue a piece at a time. First added the tree deflector (omitted by HD for some reason $$) worked a lil bit, then change the screen. went with the HD as they had a really great sale and it helped on the TOP of my helment BUT still no luck solving the turbo blast coming from around the front edge of the gas tank and leg shields. Something got repositioned from th 2K to the 2012, so I get an upward push of air from that area and the same double vision at higher speeds.
Eqcons, can you discribe more of this make shift deflectors you made?

[Eqcons]

Eqcons hit this right on the head, literally! I came from a 2K Ultra and now whittling at the issue a piece at a time. First added the tree deflector (omitted by HD for some reason $$) worked a lil bit, then change the screen. went with the HD as they had a really great sale and it helped on the TOP of my helment BUT still no luck solving the turbo blast coming from around the front edge of the gas tank and leg shields. Something got repositioned from th 2K to the 2012, so I get an upward push of air from that area and the same double vision at higher speeds.
Eqcons, can you discribe more of this make shift deflectors you made?

Yes, it's the change in the design of the lowers that have caused the problem.

The FLTR deflectors pretty much fit straight on - might need a little trim, but nothing at all difficult. There's a picture of them in the link I posted.

Jim

[110tHunDer]

Eqcons hit this right on the head, literally! I came from a 2K Ultra and now whittling at the issue a piece at a time. First added the tree deflector (omitted by HD for some reason $$) worked a lil bit, then change the screen. went with the HD as they had a really great sale and it helped on the TOP of my helment BUT still no luck solving the turbo blast coming from around the front edge of the gas tank and leg shields. Something got repositioned from th 2K to the 2012, so I get an upward push of air from that area and the same double vision at higher speeds.
Eqcons, can you discribe more of this make shift deflectors you made?

Do you still have the mid-frame heat deflectors installed?  Some have suggested those might be the culprit.  I'm just wondering if taking them off helps.

Those lowers have been around since 2005 and I don't recall any complaints about turbulence until recently.  But my '12 SEUC is definitely windier than my '04 SEEG was.

[Eqcons]

Do you still have the mid-frame heat deflectors installed?  Some have suggested those might be the culprit.  I'm just wondering if taking them off helps.

Those lowers have been around since 2005 and I don't recall any complaints about turbulence until recently.  But my '12 SEUC is definitely windier than my '04 SEEG was.

I haven't noticed a lot of difference with or without the mid frame deflectors, but I do have a friend who has complained about it since 2007 (on a normal Ultra) and solved it with the FLTR deflectors.

Jim

[Midnight Rider]

Do you still have the mid-frame heat deflectors installed?  Some have suggested those might be the culprit.  I'm just wondering if taking them off helps.

Those lowers have been around since 2005 and I don't recall any complaints about turbulence until recently.  But my '12 SEUC is definitely windier than my '04 SEEG was.

That's what I thought too, Brian, but wasn't sure.  Personally, I think it's the 6 gallon tank design.  The air diverters that came with my SERGU do seem to help a bit on the RG, so they might also be effective on the UC.

Are those experiencing problems wearing a shorty helmet?

[110tHunDer]

 
Yeah, you might be right about the tank.  I thought about that, too.  It's sort of a wide mutha, so it's probably out in the wind more.

It was hotter than hades on Saturday when I brought the SEUC home.  So, after stopping for a 30 minute cool-down for me and the bike, I opened up the fairing air deflectors for the last 25-mile stretch home.  Holy crap!  That was a mistake!  I had to close 'em back up .... too much wind ... and I was wearing my full face!

It was after that that I realized there was already a ton more air making its way to me than on the '04.  And I never felt a rush of air from opening the dragon wings on it like I felt from opening those deflectors on the new bike.

[Midnight Rider]

Makes me wonder if, because of the tank design, there is more of a negative "void" created behind the fairing when running down the road at speed.  That void can create problems with turbulence as air tries to fill the pressure difference...that may be why the RG air diverters work...they force air up into that void.  It would be interesting to see a Batwing in a real wind tunnel.

[Alremc]

Do you still have the mid-frame heat deflectors installed?  Some have suggested those might be the culprit.  I'm just wondering if taking them off helps.

Those lowers have been around since 2005 and I don't recall any complaints about turbulence until recently.  But my '12 SEUC is definitely windier than my '04 SEEG was.

I took them off thinking it was a culperate but it didn't make a whole lot of difference, so I put them back. I am going to look at the mod of the deflectors...

[SanJuanRon]

Get the recurve windshield -- it's makes a huge difference.  I have a couple Clearview shields and they work great.  The difference is amazing:  less turbulence, less buffeting, and more stability.  SJ Ron

[JoeSDE]

Having buffeting issues on my 2010 FLHTK. Much more than my 2003 FLHTCU. Air stream seems to come up from the tank. Noticeable even with the lowers off. Knock Werks 8.5, fork baffle, etc, still there. Really think the road glide pieces may be the final answer. Have wondered if the frame change and six gallon tank has changed air flow. Try this: when riding down the road,move your knees out a little from the gas tank and notice the increase in air flow.     JoeS

[Eqcons]

Having buffeting issues on my 2010 FLHTK. Much more than my 2003 FLHTCU. Air stream seems to come up from the tank. Noticeable even with the lowers off. Knock Werks 8.5, fork baffle, etc, still there. Really think the road glide pieces may be the final answer. Have wondered if the frame change and six gallon tank has changed air flow. Try this: when riding down the road,move your knees out a little from the gas tank and notice the increase in air flow.     JoeS

Well, the Road Glide pieces are cheap, so if you find they don't work, it's only cost a few $$$ - but they do work!

[Alremc]

Well, the Road Glide pieces are cheap, so if you find they don't work, it's only cost a few $$$ - but they do work!

Eqcons, I am picking up a set on the way home today. what exactly is the mod you had to do to get them to fit?