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[Hotrod50]

Just put the Lyndall Z-Plus pads on rear.  Now it squeels everytime I use rear brake.  All I did was wsitch the pads out.  Did I miss something?

[cahdbiker]

Hotrod50, Are they doing any damage to your disc?  If they mess up your disc it could be costly. They may be too metalic for the HD disc, and that is why you are hearing he squealing noise. I am sure some of the guys more experienced with that brand of pad could chime in and give you some good advise. I am going to stick with HD pads. I have good stopping power, and at 13K miles, mostly long trips with a lot of side trips thru canyons in Utah etc. I have a lot off pad left on the fronts and a little less on the rear.(that is with luggage and passenger) Hope you figure it out. Let us know if they are digging into your rotor. Some of the after market pads will last longer, but they have more mettalic bits embedded in them. Good Luck CAHDBIKER

[grc]

Hotrod50, Are they doing any damage to your disc?  If they mess up your disc it could be costly. They may be too metalic for the HD disc, and that is why you are hearing he squealing noise. I am sure some of the guys more experienced with that brand of pad could chime in and give you some good advise. I am going to stick with HD pads. I have good stopping power, and at 13K miles, mostly long trips with a lot of side trips thru canyons in Utah etc. I have a lot off pad left on the fronts and a little less on the rear.(that is with luggage and passenger) Hope you figure it out. Let us know if they are digging into your rotor. Some of the after market pads will last longer, but they have more mettalic bits embedded in them. Good Luck CAHDBIKER

The Z pads (carbon/Kevlar) are actually less abrasive to the rotors than the stock Harley metallic pads.  I'd be more inclined to believe that something didn't go back together correctly.  The rears are a bit more of a PITA to change since you do it without removing the caliper, and it's not that hard to get it wrong.  I'd suggest closely inspecting the pads and caliper to make sure everything is properly positioned, especially the antirattle spring.  


Jerry


PS.  Once you are certain everything was installed correctly, if you still have a squeal problem give the folks at Lyndall a call.
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/contact.htm

 

[twinotter]

When changing pads from one type to another, I'd carefully and lightly sand the disc surface to remove any traces of the old pad. Also most pads have a breakin proceedure, if not followed can cause noise. FWIW  twinotter 

[Hotrod50]

Another question.   I had a little trouble pushing the pistons back.  I thought about taking the master cylinder cover off, thinking there may be too much fluid for new pads.  Any logic to this?

[twinotter]

The answer would be yes, especially if you topped up the fluid when shoes where worn down! Remove the cover first, if ull remove some fluid, then push the cailper pistons back in for new pads. twinotter 

[cahdbiker]

hotrod50, according to the 09 service manual you are suppose to remove the master cylinder cover when pushing caliper pistons in. If you have added fluid since original pads were new ( you shouldn't have had to unless you bled them or had a leak) then be careful when you compress piston that fluid doesn't run over and ruin any painted services especially when working on the front pads. Also when working on the front pads you have to turn the front wheel all the way to the left when on the jiffy stand and wrap a rag around the front master cylinder so no fluid will spill out and ruin your paint when the cover is off.  These are things I read from the 09 service manual. I plan on changing out front and rear pads when I get back from Arkansas in July. I think I will just use stock HD pads. CAHDBIKER

Another question.   I had a little trouble pushing the pistons back.  I thought about taking the master cylinder cover off, thinking there may be too much fluid for new pads.  Any logic to this?

[Hotrod50]

Thanks otter.  I took the rear apart at lunch, lightly sanded the rotor, took the master cylinder cap off, pushed pistons back and watched brake fluid overflow out of resivoir.   Sprayed everything down with brake cleaner.  Put antisqueal grease on back of pads, checked and doubled checked the retainer spring position, put cap back on and watched more fluid spill over side of master cylinder and then clean it off.   Put caliper back on and went for short test ride.  No squealing yet.  Hopefully paying more attention to every detail will work this time.  Thanks for advice.

[twinotter]

 glad to be even a little help. Reading your inquiry made me realize its time to recheck my pads/ fluid levels.
If your bike has ABS, it requires Dot 4 if I remember correctly. If not be sure to use correct fluid type. My 01 uses Dot 5 which does not affect paint. FWIW  twinotter

[UFO_HOG]

Lube, lube, lube, I can not stress this enough, noise is caused by vibration, lube allows those 2 pieces of metal to slide against each other. Put a thin layer where ever metal on metal contact occurs. Use a good quality brake lube NAPA # 765-1898, it is a ceramic based lube that handles up to 2800 degrees, and is not water soluble, and sticks to parts very well......

[dlaws01]

Remember to properly glaze in your new pads after installation. This can be done by bringing bike up to speed then braking hard (but controlled) several times in succession without giving the pads enough time to cool down. Usually three or four times of hard braking in a row will accomplish the task.

[twinotter]

I went to a local vetrinarian and picked up a 3/4" plastic suringe, I use that to remove fluid from master cylinder when replacing pads.
Depending upon the brand, follow the breakin proceedures carefully, different composites require different approaches.
Good luck with getting everything resolved.  twinotter 

[Hotrod50]

Great tip.  One of my good friends is a vet.  Think I'll go by before I do the fronts.  Otter, you're a genious!