The 259 is not a good cam for the 110? What cam would you think is better with the headwork your suggestion?thanks mike
From my understanding, the 259 cam makes most of it's HP/TQ a bit later in the curve, so for ME, it would not be a good selection, as I prefer the TQ down low and could care less about what happens after about 4500 RPM. Be mindful of the fact that I am happy with the stock engine with exhaust and a tuner. The 255 cam that comes in the stock motor performs well in the RPM ranges I like to ride in. I do wind it up on occasion, so I don't just putt around, but in riding the twisties and such, TQ in the 2500-4500 RPM range is more important to me. If I raced people, it would be a different story. I spend my money on what's important to me, which is handling, so after doing the exhaust/tuner, I immediately upgrade the suspension. IMO, all the HP/TQ in the world is worthless if you can't put it on the ground in the conditions you ride in. I like riding curvey roads whenever possible. That gives me a thrill, so I want the bike to be predictable and the power to be such that I can throttle on halfway through the turn and have the TQ to move a 900 lb bike on to the next one.
Telling someone what cam and headwork (if any) to do is like telling them what religion to choose. There are many good cams out there today that will do a great job, either with just a cam swap (and related components), or a combination of cams/head gasket, or cams, head gasket, head work. It all depends on what you're after and how much you want to spend to get there. Some that come to mind are the Andrews cams, Woods, T-Man, and Redshift. All of those make cams that will work well with the above. There are several good vendors on this site that can recommend combinations. I am of the opinion that when one starts radically changing the HP/TQ by upping the CID, changing pistons/compression, high lift cams, etc. that there are other things that must be done to the bottom end of the motor to make it rock solid reliable. Milder cams and slight compression changes are OK, but much beyond that requires crank work. Again, that is my opinion because I want as much reliability as I can get in the motor. The weak link(s) in the 110 seems to be lifter/crankshaft related, from my reading here about failures.