Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Bearcat1]

The 7, CVO 110"ers we have repaired/performance mods this year, ALL have had adjustable S&S pushrods adjusted to .140-.150" lifter load, about 1/2 have had S&S lifters installed, most have had Wood cams, and ALL were VERY quiet.
Scott

SCOTT, SO WHAT DOES ONE CHARGE TO HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THIS DONE IF THIS REALLY DOES FIX THE 110 CHATTER???

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

PM sent.
Scott

[Mount'nman]

X2 my brutha.  As good as it runs, the noise bothers me enough that sometimes I almost wish something would break so I'd have a reason to go into the motor and change things up.

Some of this thread sounds like the pinging my 110 had...  (pro pipe, cams and head work with dyno tune) Got the dealer to put the bike on the dyno again and saw the fast retard events where the bike pinged... 2000-2800 RPM...  adjusted timing and no more pinging... still hear some valve clatter but not loud.

[cahdbiker]

Hi Scott, just wondering. Would you say it was the pushrods and lifters  that made the engine have less mechanical noises, or the cam change? I don't plan on doing anything to my 09 until something breaks, because I really like the 255 cams that are in it. Thanks in advance.CAHDBIKER

The 7, CVO 110"ers we have repaired/performance mods this year, ALL have had adjustable S&S pushrods adjusted to .140-.150" lifter load, about 1/2 have had S&S lifters installed, most have had Wood cams, and ALL were VERY quiet.
Scott

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Good lifters, with a good pre-load put to 'em,(adj. pushrod) seem to tame things down pretty good.
Scott

[cahdbiker]

Thanks Scott. CAHDBIKER

Good lifters, with a good pre-load put to 'em,(adj. pushrod) seem to tame things down pretty good.
Scott

[Gecko]

You can bet the company knows what it is, but it's a lot cheaper to say "normal" than having to fix them.  The fact that something works on one engine and not another just means they are all over the place on quality control.

[zeflash]

You can bet the company knows what it is, but it's a lot cheaper to say "normal" than having to fix them.  The fact that something works on one engine and not another just means they are all over the place on quality control.

That all depends what they believe is normal or not. For instance, if you don't consider this noise, then the engines are all working the same...

Anyways, this has been bothering me too on my 07 SERK. Prev owner had the SE 251 cams installed, and the ticking happens pretty much all over the RPM range, but I have no idea what sound it was making before with the regulaer cams. "Sounds like a sewing machine" is exactly what I and other people are saying, plus a general sensation of gritting/rasping in the engine. Like everyone else here, this noise is really taking away the fun in the ride.

In my case the mechanic seemed to think part of the noise (maybe not just the ticking) came from the cam chain tensioner & bad oil flow, and told me a change to a "SCREAMIN’ EAGLE HYDRAULIC CAM CHAIN TENSIONER AND HIGH-FLOW OIL PUMP UPGRADE" would "probably" solve this ticking pb, as it apparently did so on the boss's 2011 CVO street glide. They didn't have the parts in stock so it's still not done.

I'm not sure sure it's needed anymore now with all that has been said on this thread? Better oil flow is probably good for such a big engine, but if it's not going to fix the issue at hand ...

I also plan on putting Andrews 54 cams as I want more torque and lower RPM and Steve at Fullsac has been nice enough to explain that the SE 251 are more a top range set of CAM - I'm learning quite a lot about engines right now!
Would such a set of cam enough to fix or at least attenuate the ticking? Or from Scott's posts, do I also have to change lifters & pushrods? Given it's all connected I assume it's hard to say without actually trying. How do you adjust such rods? do you have to open up the engine every time?

This all sounds expensive no matter what though. If a 15 000 miles maintenance was charged 500€, I can't imagine how much it's gonna take to go through all those steps! Crap

[Ohio phil]

Well this gives me good reason to keep my 2009 serg with 26,000 quite miles shhhhhhh  I keep looking at new ones but man my chopper runs good and quite and I have had some loud ones !!! also this one uses NO oil in 5000 miles   

[Bearcat1]

As the OP of this thread I must say that a few weeks ago I decided to take the lowers off of my SG for better cooling and the tapping noise was considerably better. I would say if it would have been like that from the beginning then I probably never would have even considered mentioning anything about the noise.  It was almost "normal".  Evidently having the lowers on somehow keeps the tapping noise in and directs it more up towards the rider.  But as usual something always seems to ruin the fun.  I didn't like the wind flow with the lowers off so I put them back on.  Noise is back as it was before but I guess I am learning more to ignore it.  Still don't like it though!

[cahdbiker]

bearcat1, I was talking to on of the local HD techs I just happened to see and he said the noise we are all hearing is mostly piston slap because of the short piston skirts. So combine that with a little valve train noise, and a little clatter from the compensator sprocket and it adds up to a pretty mixed up bunch of noises that would be hard to pinpoint. Mine is quiet at idle hot or cold, only makes noticeable noises between about 2800 and 3000 RPM. ( I do think the SE compensator they just intalled under warranty clacks a little more than the old one, I was unfortunate not to get the latest upgrade I believe I got part no. 40274-08 I think the latest upgrade is 40274-08A ). I am looking forward to hearing the phrase "that's normal" when I take it back for them to listen to it. Other than the above I will ride it the way it is since the performance is good and oil consumption is very minimal.CAHDBIKER

[Bearcat1]

bearcat1, I was talking to on of the local HD techs I just happened to see and he said the noise we are all hearing is mostly piston slap because of the short piston skirts. So combine that with a little valve train noise, and a little clatter from the compensator sprocket and it adds up to a pretty mixed up bunch of noises that would be hard to pinpoint. Mine is quiet at idle hot or cold, only makes noticeable noises between about 2800 and 3000 RPM. ( I do think the SE compensator they just intalled under warranty clacks a little more than the old one, I was unfortunate not to get the latest upgrade I believe I got part no. 40274-08 I think the latest upgrade is 40274-08A ). I am looking forward to hearing the phrase "that's normal" when I take it back for them to listen to it. Other than the above I will ride it the way it is since the performance is good and oil consumption is very minimal.CAHDBIKER

Yes, it could be piston slap.  Only thing that makes me scratch my head about that though is the fact that I have read that usually piston slap will get less noticeable as the motor warms up and reaches normal operating temps.  But mine is just the opposite.  Quiet at first and then gets more noticeable as things warm up.  So heck, who knows?  Like you said, she's performing good, oil is normal so I have to assume all is well.

Yep, I already got the "that's normal" twice...

[HD Street Performance]

Sounds such as this presented cold are likely slap and when worse hot valve train lash and/or harmonics.

The following video demonstrates harmonics in the valve train and also shows the advantages of the beehive spring design, The CVO uses a dual conventional spring with a damper
http://www.racingsprings.com/movie-beehive1

The se255 even though it is not a long high lift cam has relatively fast ramps and combined with the same valve gear below the heads as the 96" can cause valve train noise at select RPMs. The main difference from the OEM 96" is the CVO valve springs have about a 400# rate VS the OEM beehive 320# and much larger heavier valves. Now the components below the heads need to be changed to match the top and lash will diminish. This includes better lifters, Gaterman in my case, better pushrods Smiths my choice, and preload set at stock. These items do require the gas tank to be removed and the rockers can be removed without pulling the whole top apart. The SE 18404-08 are decent and will load from the side. They are an improvement but the Smiths are a much better more rigid part. I have yet to see a 110 CVO headed motor present whisper quiet but there are improvements to be had doing what I said. A cam change can help too if the lobes are closer to industrial in rate. Many are more aggressive so choose carefully. Valve springs complete the assembly but due to the fact the heads need to be pulled most rule that out.

[CVO2FIXUP]

  I know that the 110 uses larger diameter valves with a larger seat area. So, can most of this valve train noise be the sound the valve makes closing against the seat?  It makes seance to me.  The fact that all kinds of mods do nothing to improve things tells me that this valve/seat interface could be the culprit.  I had head work done by J-precision ( CNC porting and larger valves with seats, tapered springs and new guides )  The ticking noise is much louder now. Stock pistons and lifters.  So I dont think we can do much with large valve motors and the ticking noise.  I got a 3/4 helmet and I love it!!!  Blocks out most of the noise and I can hear the music much better. Cheers all.

[cahdbiker]

bearcat1, I have replied to your post before, but I just thought of something my S&S engine was doing when the pistons were loose. Besides all the obnoxious noises it made when I was riding it, if you revved it a little and listened carefully it would make a low pitched knocking noise just off idle. It was hard to hear, but it was definitely there. Regarding my 09, I mentioned in another post that I  had my compensator sprocker replaced recently. I did not get the latest version. Now as I am going thru the gears I am hearing and addittional clacking noise at about 3000 RPM. It doesn't do it if I rev it up in neutral. Once I am in a higher gear say 5th or 6th going down the freeway all is quiet and smooth as glass. If it was only that quiet all the time. I am going to take it back in and have the service writer or tech take if for a ride and  hold it in 2nd or 3rd gear at 3000 RPM where you can really hear the new noise.( actually it sounds kind of like it did before the new compensator sprocket was installed ) I just don't understand why the clacking noise goes away in higher gears at freeway speeds and same RPM.CAHDBIKER.