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[fos41]

I Just recently bought a used 05 SEEG that has 18.5k miles. Question about clutch action on this bike. The clutch engages immediately (abruptly) when the lever moves roughly 1/4” away from the handlebar grip my question is there any adjustment at the clutch? I have not had a chance to disassemble and inspect the clutch. I know this cannot be normal clutch action. Any input would be appreciated.

[Fired00d]

You have a hydraulic (fluid) clutch on that bike unlike a cable there are no adjustments to make. What you are describing sounds to be normal for the clutch/lever.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[fos41]

Wow

[Wrongway]

Takes a little getting used to. Had many miles on my a$$ before the first CVO and I felt like a rookie.

[grc]

I Just recently bought a used 05 SEEG that has 18.5k miles. Question about clutch action on this bike. The clutch engages immediately (abruptly) when the lever moves roughly 1/4” away from the handlebar grip my question is there any adjustment at the clutch? I have not had a chance to disassemble and inspect the clutch. I know this cannot be normal clutch action. Any input would be appreciated.

While there is no adjustment like on a cable clutch, you do need to make certain there is no air in the system.  Air in the system will reduce the amount of travel of the release rod and pressure plate, leading to clutch drag and too rapid engagement when releasing the lever.  Air in the system was very common on the CVO models.

Once all air is removed from the system, you can verify proper operation by measuring the actual travel of the release rod.  The minimum specification is .065" (1.65mm).  If you have less travel than that, and you're certain ALL the air is out of the system, you may need a new actuator (slave cylinder located in the right side trans cover).

When my bike was brand new, the clutch engaged right at the grip, and shifting was lousy due to clutch drag.  After I completely bled the system several times, I could then actually feather the clutch and engagement didn't occur until the lever was 1/2" from the grip.  So it does make a significant difference.

btw, another thing to be aware of is the fluid level in the master cylinder.  Never overfill, since the fluid level in the M/C actually increases as the clutch wears.  If you let the level get too high the clutch will be prone to slip.


Jerry

[porthole]

Too  much oil in the primary too for funky clutch action

[fos41]

Thanks GRC & Porthole, that is the technical info that I needed to hear!

[fos41]

The clutch fixed its self. After riding the bike several miles the clutch action normalized. Must have been air that worked its way out.

[Twolanerider]

The clutch fixed its self. After riding the bike several miles the clutch action normalized. Must have been air that worked its way out.

Sealed system so more likely you got used to the feel than that it somehow self-bled very much.  Only thing that matters is you and it are good to go though.  Enjoy the bike.

[fos41]

No,the  clutch actuation point did change from just off the grip to mid-travel of the clutch lever after a few hundred miles.

[Wrongway]

DOT 4 fluid also needs to be changed every couple years, as it will degrade. I lost clutch action at the top of Sonora Pass last year, got home by pumping the clutch up a couple times before using it. Changed the fluid out and have never had another problem. The bike only had 6,000 miles on it at that time, so it is a time thing, not miles. Same for the brakes, DOT 4 there too.