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Author Topic: 120R crank, .016" TIR.  (Read 13615 times)

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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2012, 11:04:20 AM »

I am sure the 120r cuts into the 117 upgrades but from the consumer side why wouldn't it?
The 120 will scale up too
This is a 120r kit with ported CVO110 heads I did, 10.8/1 2000 FLH with MM / HPI injection 662-2 cam
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Unbalanced

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2012, 11:13:23 AM »

Agreeing with Dewey now isnt that a switch.   Even a completely stock 120r isnt all that bad .

Stock 120r with a 55mm HPI throttlebody and Bassani 2/1, ventilator air cleaner.
« Last Edit: August 11, 2012, 11:19:05 AM by Unbalanced »
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cvobiker

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #17 on: August 11, 2012, 11:55:56 AM »

Seems none of these cranks are passing the test.
.016" out-of-true condition, on this one.
"The road goes on forever, and the party never ends." :D
Scott

you mean you were really expecting different from Harley???.. I think the only thing Harley learned from Jim's was;  ' Lets call it a racing engine'.  Amazing what titles do to boost sales..   But if Harley was smart, they would also learn where Jim's reputation went.. 
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Steve Cole

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #18 on: August 11, 2012, 12:20:56 PM »

What I can say is that I'm the one that tore mine down up front and I'm glad I did. On the other hand even after doing it, I would do it again regardless just for piece of mind if I was to do it again. If you look at what you get for the money you can afford to take it apart and clean things up and your still money ahead for most comparable aftermarket builds. I've got a good engine in the 120R for $4200 + about $400 more to tear it apart and clean it up. So for some of my time and $4600 I have a well built 120R with a trued, welded and plugged crankshaft. Where you going to find that from the aftermarket engines?

While I wish you could just bolt it in and go, some are having issues and others are not. With my luck I would have been in the having trouble group. For what it's worth my factory run out was .0005" on one side and .0008" on the other side. Once the timken conversion and crankwork was done I now have .0004" and .0005" so I'm happy and I do not have to worry about it changing anytime soon.
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Black Diamond

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #19 on: August 11, 2012, 12:24:50 PM »

What I can say is that I'm the one that tore mine down up front and I'm glad I did. On the other hand even after doing it, I would do it again regardless just for piece of mind if I was to do it again. If you look at what you get for the money you can afford to take it apart and clean things up and your still money ahead for most comparable aftermarket builds. I've got a good engine in the 120R for $4200 + about $400 more to tear it apart and clean it up. So for some of my time and $4600 I have a well built 120R with a trued, welded and plugged crankshaft. Where you going to find that from the aftermarket engines?

While I wish you could just bolt it in and go, some are having issues and others are not. With my luck I would have been in the having trouble group. For what it's worth my factory run out was .0005" on one side and .0008" on the other side. Once the timken conversion and crankwork was done I now have .0004" and .0005" so I'm happy and I do not have to worry about it changing anytime soon.

Steve, How many miles have you got on yours? Any issues to date? Have you heard of any crank issues in the range Scott posted about?

JW
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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #20 on: August 11, 2012, 12:40:30 PM »

There will be the owners that want to take them apart. I see the logic however at the same time a little tweaking can bring up a few more ponies and there are some known issues not one offs that make the news and garner bandwidth. Certainly the indy shops have opportunities to make a few bucks the root cause of the animosity between indy shops and the MOCO is the parts selling policy.
Once again on the consumer side this is not their problem and it is not hard to have a strong running bike that doesn't break the bank and still have the stock motor on the side unmolested as a backup or for resale.
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Unbalanced

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #21 on: August 11, 2012, 07:12:19 PM »

Steve,

Where can I buy a 120r for 4200.00?  Who is doing the crankwork for 400.00?   
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geezerglide

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #22 on: August 11, 2012, 08:45:41 PM »

Steve,

Where can I buy a 120r for 4200.00? 

Best price I can find is $4,700.00.

geezerglide
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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #23 on: August 11, 2012, 08:53:56 PM »

It has a 30-day lead time per Rebecca at Tri-County, price was $4556.76 FYI.  Shipping is on top of that

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geezerglide

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #24 on: August 11, 2012, 10:12:27 PM »

It has a 30-day lead time per Rebecca at Tri-County, price was $4556.76 FYI.  Shipping is on top of that



Will check it out.

Thanks Dewey,
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Lever

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #25 on: August 11, 2012, 10:47:47 PM »

I am sure the 120r cuts into the 117 upgrades but from the consumer side why wouldn't it?
I would  want the (117) being it would be a torq monster  bore and stroke being the same

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Steve Cole

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #26 on: August 11, 2012, 11:13:17 PM »

I will have to go find my receipt but that is what I paid for it a few years back when they first came out. As for crank work I have a friend that works at a local shop that does the crankshaft so I just took it over there. The timken machine work I did myself along with the assemble work. Took the heads apart and checked them and they were fine other than completely dry. Not one drop of lube anywhere in them which I did not like. To me it wasn't about more power than it already makes it was just the little things when I pulled the rocker boxes and shafts I did not like and the next thing I knew I took the whole thing apart as the cam chest was dry as well.

I've got my 103 complete sitting up on the shelf if I decide to swap back in the future or if I buy a new bike. The only thing I think I would have done different is change the valve springs as I felt there was just too much pressure for a street motor but I just didn't know for sure so I left them. Had a buddy just break a spring on his 120R at 30K on his so I'm going to swap mine just to be safe. Some lifter wear has been showing up and I think a little lighter spring is going to help reduce that wear. For drag racing the heavy springs are just fine but for long life I think they are too much and with a few failures along with lifter wear comeing to the surface I think dropping them down in pressure will be a good thing for a street bike.
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HD Street Performance

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #27 on: August 12, 2012, 12:11:12 AM »

I have been using AV&V beehives for this same reason. I set to 175# seat and 385# at .66 lift

There have been issues with the lifter rollers skating and that can be pinned (Root Cause Analysis) to lobes that are not ground perpendicular thus not full lobe to roller contact. Putting the cams in V-blocks on a granite table and checking this wise.
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prodrag1320

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #28 on: August 12, 2012, 08:53:30 AM »

ide spend a little more & have a good shop build your existing motor to 124" using S&S parts,we do alot of them,find the price to be competitive with HD price for a WAY better motor

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Re: 120R crank, .016" TIR.
« Reply #29 on: August 12, 2012, 11:29:03 AM »

Agreeing with Dewey now isnt that a switch.   Even a completely stock 120r isnt all that bad .

Stock 120r with a 55mm HPI throttlebody and Bassani 2/1, ventilator air cleaner.

I had to change my Ventilator to a Heavy Breather during my dyno tune, it was not putting out nearly what was expected when I suggested that maybe a heavy breather would help. They put it on and got 7 more hp/ 5 tq. I am running a 58mm throttlebody which was part of the new stage 4 install. Just got home from Sturgis and my bike is much more fun/fast/etc. Great time :D
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