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[porthole]

I was stuck in heavy traffic yesterday and boy does that engine throw some heat. Stopped for fuel and the bike almost didn't start. Engine and battery light came on - great.
Revving it up seemed to keep it charging, so the next 200 miles was with a bit of trepidation, considering it would be moistly dark  

I did about 125 miles at highway speed and and when stuck behind a trooper closing down a lane and running about 5 mph the lights came back on.

The battery seems to be OK for the best that I can test it at home. Using an automotive load tester (about a 100 amp draw) it just shows weak. But that is higher then the similar sized new battery in my ZTR mower. The battery is 3 years old last month and is kept on a tender about 90% of the time.

So for those that know - at idle up to about 2500 RPM there is little change in charge voltage, reading around battery voltage, about 12 volts by the dash gauge. 2500-3000 it climbs and at 3000 it is a steady 14, which is the normal charging voltage for my bike.I also have the high output alternator kit from HD installed.

So - Rotor - stator or regulator?
I'm thinking the battery may be on its way out too since even at 14 volt charge for almost 2 hours it still didn't seem hold up it's end when I was stuck in a slow ride again.

[flhse]

You need to start a raffle....or poll....lol

Looks like you have been down this road before, I'm going for rotor as first choice..... 

Sent a pm, good luck.

Brad

[spydglide]

Just asking.. ..don't know... ....but, is it possible to have the regulator 'adjusted' or a diff. one that would call for charging at a lower point?  Some batteries will even test out as 'good' and not be up to carrying the load that these new bikes with all the bells & whistles call for......might be why all the HD Dealers are now being required to buy the new diagnostic machine to test batteries and send print-outs to the mothership on warrenty batteries.  Oh, and the new batteries are more $$$ than 3 years ago.  spyder

[Midnight Rider]

The only information I can give is that when the regulator went bad on my '06, it was behaving similarly to what you are describing, at least on the voltage gauge readout.  I don't recall any idiot lights coming on though.

Spydy...many moons ago, if memory serves me, mechanical regulators did have an adjustment.  I doubt that's the case any longer.

[Hotrod50]

Don't buy the HD battery.  Buy a Denka.  Same company that makes the HD's but half the price.

[Puzzled]

Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.

To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM

To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug

To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.

Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.

[Twolanerider]

One thought to consider Duane.  Not wishing multiple failures on you but it's not uncommon that rotors and regulators end up being replaced together.  You may only have a weak battery.  But just for consideration....

If you're only replacing one part the suggestion isn't cost effective.  So never mind.  But if you've got more to do consider using the stator and rotor from the three phase bikes.  Get rotor and regulator for a 2006 touring bike.  You'd also need the pigtail that goes from the harness to the regulator (it's a part Harley sells).  Higher charging rate and much better low RPM charging.  It's also the only way to improve the low RPM charging on our bikes.

[spydglide]

One thought to consider Duane.  Not wishing multiple failures on you but it's not uncommon that rotors and regulators end up being replaced together.  You may only have a weak battery.  But just for consideration....

If you're only replacing one part the suggestion isn't cost effective.  So never mind.  But if you've got more to do consider using the stator and rotor from the three phase bikes.  Get rotor and regulator for a 2006 touring bike.  You'd also need the pigtail that goes from the harness to the regulator (it's a part Harley sells).  Higher charging rate and much better low RPM charging.  It's also the only way to improve the low RPM charging on our bikes.

Is that what you did to the '05 Don?  spyder

[porthole]

Don, I went with the 45 amp some time ago, just because it was 20 % night at the dealer and I was running heated gear for two.
Up until the trip home the bike always charged at 14 volts, hot, cold, idle or at speed.

Something I didn't remember until PM"ing with Brad was that I recalled hearing a ringing noise this past weekend, but I thought that was just the noises in my head  - since someone here had the nerve to bring up tinnitus.

Now I'm thinking the ringing could have been a rotor slipping.

Mike, thanks for the diagnostic chart, will print it out and take a look.

I am committing myself to pulling the primary though as after this trip the old girl is starting to act like my 74 Sportster, leaving her mark whenever I stop.

[DCFIREMANN]

Duane I was going to jump in but all the bases are already covered. Charge the battery overnight before you do anything. You MUST have a fully charged battery when checking the charging system out. If you run into any problems call me and I will walk you through it!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[flhse]

Don't disconnect or reconnect the stator plug when the bike is running, it can (and will) fry the stator.

To check stator rotor output:
1) disconnect the stator plug
2) start bike
3) set multi-meter to VAC
4) read across the stator plug (one probe in each hole)
5) have someone rev the bike up to 2000-3000 RPM
6) stator/rotor output should be 16-20 VAC per 1000 RPM

To check for a shorted or grounded stator:
1) set multi-meter to "ohms"
2) read across the stator plug
3) resistance should be 0.2-0.3 ohms
4) now check each stator pin to ground
5) should have no continuity
6) kill engine
7) reconnect stator plug

To check voltage regulator function:
1) set multi-meter to VDC
2) check battery voltage...12.5-13.0 VDC (if the battery isn't fully charged, this test is useless)
3) start bike
4) hold the red lead of the multi-meter to the positive post of the battery and the black lead to the negative post.
5) increase engine RPM to at least 2000 RPM
6) multi-meter will show regulator charging rate which should be 14.2-14.6 VDC. A brand new fully charged battery will sometimes only indicate 14.0 VDC; anything above 14.6 VDC is cooking the battery.

Did the stator go bad first or the regulator?
A bad stator will take out a regulator and a dead short will ruin both.
A bad or intermittent ground on the regulator is never a good idea either.

Umm, ohm meter used while running?  Don't think that will work well.  

[Puzzled]

Yeah that should read key/ignition off.

[Twolanerider]

Is that what you did to the '05 Don?  spyder

The 05 just go the bigger rotor for the rest of the stock setup.  The Road King got this three phase setup though.  Have done it to a couple of other bikes also.  Have scored enough cheap parts on eBay to do it to the old SERG some snowy boring winter Saturday also. 

Really an easy change if anyone ever has either need or desire.  Replace the rotor with one from an 06 (06 only) touring model.  Stator and regulator from an 06-08.  Replace the pigtail that goes to the regulator.  Voila, good to go.  Good charge at idle that we never had before and higher overall output to handle the various accessories and lights and other things we might hang on the bikes.

[Twolanerider]

The 05 just go the bigger rotor for the rest of the stock setup.  The Road King got this three phase setup though.  Have done it to a couple of other bikes also.  Have scored enough cheap parts on eBay to do it to the old SERG some snowy boring winter Saturday also. 

Really an easy change if anyone ever has either need or desire.  Replace the rotor with one from an 06 (06 only) touring model.  Stator and regulator from an 06-08.  Replace the pigtail that goes to the regulator.  Voila, good to go.  Good charge at idle that we never had before and higher overall output to handle the various accessories and lights and other things we might hang on the bikes.

Oh yeah, and you need a set of stator bolts to match the new stator.  Also from an 06-08. 

[hbens]

I had the same conditions on my 2004 SEEG. Around 12 volts or so riding along normal and when I went up over 3000rpm the voltage would get where it should be. The HD dealer replaced the whole smash in the charging system (since I had an ESP?).
It charged near 14v at idle after that.
I too heard the ringing sound while riding. Seams one of the parts was slipping on the shaft and not getting up to speed until the higher rpm.