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[porthole]

Looks like I don't get to look until October 4th or later now.
Yesterday and today is look into why a $2600, just out of warranty fridge does not work (shut down while I was in MV)

[DCFIREMANN]

Looks like I don't get to look until October 4th to later now.
Yesterday and today is look into why a $2600, just out of warranty fridge does not work (shut down while I was in MV)

OH SNAP!!!!!! Man you are having a bad week!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[flhse]

Looks like I don't get to look until October 4th or later now.
Yesterday and today is look into why a $2600, just out of warranty fridge does not work (shut down while I was in MV)

Our GE was giving trouble in the freezer for a few months, had to replace the mother board, couldn't believe the refrigerator had a electronic brain.  Works great now, better than ever.  Wife called GE, they almost jumped to pay for the parts if we had a certified tech do the work, still cheaper to buy the board ($130) and put it in myself.   hmmm, trying to avoid the lawyers, maybe.......  A number of people I work with have had issues and replaced these boards.   

Good luck.

Brad

[grc]

Our GE was giving trouble in the freezer for a few months, had to replace the mother board, couldn't believe the refrigerator had a electronic brain.  Works great now, better than ever.  Wife called GE, they almost jumped to pay for the parts if we had a certified tech do the work, still cheaper to buy the board ($130) and put it in myself.   hmmm, trying to avoid the lawyers, maybe.......  A number of people I work with have had issues and replaced these boards.   

Good luck.

Brad

It's pretty much all appliances these days.  $100 to $200 circuit boards replace all the individual simple switches and relays of the past.  One button stops working, you now get to replace the entire control board.  And sadly, many appliance companies seem to have adopted the Harley philosophy of short manufacturer warranties and then making the customer buy service agreements to cover the poor quality and reliability of their products.


Jerry

[mule]

I'm going threw the same scenario, mine threw a low voltage code, first security light started coming on while riding, next the idle went to about 1800 rpm and then to 2500 at idle, so I pulled fuses on headlight and gauges and charged the battery I was able to make it home I am waiting for the dealer to check it out now I will let you know what they find. It is only putting out 13.2 volts at 3000 rpm not enough to keep up with the headlight on

[porthole]

So I skipped the diagnostics since I had at a minimum a need to stop a primary leak.

The stator is fried.

[porthole]

The comp was good and tight, still at the sharpie mark I left it at 3.5 years ago.
But, I did find some unusual wear. On 2 of the three lobes of the cam the the "hills" are worn down.



The Chain tensioner is worn pretty good too.



The tensioner is about 2 years old and the cam original. Although, I am currently on my 3rd sprocket, not due to wear though.

[porthole]

My clutch basket felt a little odd when taking apart. When I removed the push rod I found a snap ring laying inside the hub and the whole assembly wobbled a bit on the shaft.

The Main shaft nut was good and tight when removing.

I found three parts that are not listed in either the service manual or the 05 CVO parts book page 38), a flat washer, a beveled washer and a snap ring.



And on the backside I found damaged splines. The main shaft looks fine.

[porthole]

So, these parts? Any guesses as to why they are not listed in the parts book? Part on the right is hard to see, but is a snap ring

[hd-dude]

So, these parts? Any guesses as to why they are not listed in the parts book? Part on the right is hard to see, but is a snap ring

Those parts belong in the inner clutch hub. They are not sold by separately and not meant to be taken apart. We have seen these fail like this before.

[twinotter]

  Your stator is obviously fried, that may be the result of the compensator not being installed properly.
The compensator should have wear marks down in the valleys, not at the tops. Either the nut is bottoming out, parts are assembled incorrectly or the wrong spacer was used. The spring pack for the comp may have broken or collapsed.
I think the snap ring you show is part of the clutch hub to hold the bearing in place, the bearing may have shifted out after the ring moved, disassembly is required. You'll likely need a new hub anyways, its important to find out where the pcs of that hub went. Chunks of your chain tensioner are also missing, where are they?
Sorry to see your aggravation, hope you get it sorted.  twinotter

[porthole]

Those parts belong in the inner clutch hub. They are not sold by separately and not meant to be taken apart. We have seen these fail like this before.

Jim - Failed as in how and what happened - symptoms?
Is the washer marked "out" supposed to be beveled?

I haven't tried yet, but it appears that I can just put all the pieces back in and the snap ring will fit in the groove. I don't plan on that though. I will be replacing the inner hub because of the missing teeth on the back side - and what causes that?

Was planning on changing out the bearing anyway, doesn't seem to smooth when spinning the basket.

[porthole]

Your stator is obviously fried.

No doubt, already ordered one from Don's neighbor, fair price and free shipping.

may be the result of the compensator not being installed properly.
The compensator should have wear marks down in the valleys, not at the tops. Either the nut is bottoming out, parts are assembled incorrectly or the wrong spacer was used. The spring pack for the comp may have broken or collapsed.

Nut was torqued properly, rotor was not spinning or show signs of any movement. The nut still had the sharpie marks lined up from the torque plus rotate.
Using a 45 amp rotor, no spacer used.

Spring pack "seems" OK and only 2 of the 3 lobes are worn like that. Shaft extension looks good.

The other new issue is the lower screw for the chain tensioner plate is seized in the inner primary housing.

[hd-dude]

Jim - Failed as in how and what happened - symptoms?
Is the washer marked "out" supposed to be beveled?

I haven't tried yet, but it appears that I can just put all the pieces back in and the snap ring will fit in the groove. I don't plan on that though. I will be replacing the inner hub because of the missing teeth on the back side - and what causes that?

Was planning on changing out the bearing anyway, doesn't seem to smooth when spinning the basket.

Fails when the snap ring comes out. This now allows the hub to move back and forth on the shaft (even though the nut is tight) which is what I believe tears up the splines inside the hub. Eventually the splines will all go away and the symptom is that the bike wont go anymore. Over the years I have seen many of these do this same thing.

[porthole]

Tight nut and loose hub, guess that explains the wobble I had with the assembly when taking it apart.
Hard to believe just the snap ring holds that hub on.

Makes sense with the splines too. Just glad the main shaft splines are good.