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[hoister139]

 My '05 CVO Electraglide has developed an electrical problem. Yesterday I went to start it and the battery was graveyard dead. No dim panel lights , clicking when I hit the starter,nothing. I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. I put a charger on it and gave it a full charge and a week later like I said , nothing. The battery is less than 6 months old and the alternator is putting out 13 1/2 volts. Where do I start, there's still some decent riding weather up here in Wisconsin so I'd like to get so I can trust it not to leave me setting on the side of the road or in a parking lot away from home. HHHEEELLLPPP!!!

[Twolanerider]

My '05 CVO Electraglide has developed an electrical problem. Yesterday I went to start it and the battery was graveyard dead. No dim panel lights , clicking when I hit the starter,nothing. I had the same problem 2 weeks ago. I put a charger on it and gave it a full charge and a week later like I said , nothing. The battery is less than 6 months old and the alternator is putting out 13 1/2 volts. Where do I start, there's still some decent riding weather up here in Wisconsin so I'd like to get so I can trust it not to leave me setting on the side of the road or in a parking lot away from home. HHHEEELLLPPP!!!

Don't automatically assume that because the battery is new it's good.  Not likely but it happens.

Otherwise my first thoughts would be the following:

Make sure the cables are clean and tight.  Not just at the battery end but at all their ends

Also, those cables have a bit of notariety for not being the best in the world.  Weak crimps that let go over time.  Again, could be at either end.  Tug, pull, wiggle, look at closely.  Any sign of corrison within the end of the cable or if it feels a little loose at all strongly consider throwing a set of battery cables at it.

Given your description checking the cables, connections and not absolutely accepting the absolute fact of a new good battery is where I'd start.  Good luck.

[hogasm]

After you have a charged battery, disconnect the neg cable from the battery and use a test light to check for stray voltage
1 disconnect neg battery cable
2 attach alligator clip of tester to neg cable
3 attach or touch pointed end of tester to neg battery terminal

if light illuminates you have stray voltage

to determine what part of the electrical system is using voltage disconnect a single fuse at a time until the light does not illuminate any more, we all know that the stereo uses voltage all the time so disconnect this fuse first. This narrows down where the voltage is going......if you have one and not just a bad battery

[DCFIREMANN]

Change the battery in your smart siren!!!!! Not saying that is the problem but it does happen. I removed mine all together because of a problem last year. Also what kind of tuner is on the bike?

As Twolane said check all of the connections. Running at 2k you should have at least 14 volts at the battery.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[efrbc1]

How do you do this (change siren battery)?  Mine is almost "silent" and I can't find any info in either the Owners Manual or Service Manual.

Chris

[DCFIREMANN]

Right side cover behind the ECM is a black box. That is it!!! After removal there is a 9 volt battery in there.!!!! Hope this helps.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[efrbc1]

Cool!!  I'll take a look tomorrow.  Thanks.

Chris 

[cahdbiker]

hoister139, I just changed out the battery in my 09SEUC. It would read around 13.3 volts ( I keep it on battery tender) and also when running it would read slightly over 14 volts even with passing lamps on. Those readings give a false sense of security The problem is that if you don't have a load tester you can't check out what voltage it is putting out when you hit the starter. That is the true test to see if your battery is going out.  I think the readings while the engine is not running or maybe idling are good to check, but what really counts is voltage under load when hitting starter button . Mine was at 7.23 when I hit the starter button and all the starter did was click.(luckily it happened in my driveway) The horn honked, lights were on and bright all electrical worked good. Original battery lasted from Aug 08 until May of this year. I was kind of thinking I would get more out of it since it is always on battery tender when I am not riding. I have decided to change them every 3 years from now on. I think HD only gives 30 days warranty on batteries which is B.S. since they are so pricey. IMHO battery warrantry should be at least one year with no prorations. CAHDBIKER

[spada84]

The electrical engineer says:

Pretty much what TwoLane says, however, instead of using a test light, use an OHM meter.  Have to wire in series like you would the test light.  I found that the memory on my radio was bad, and causing the battery to drain over 48 hours.  1 day I would be OK, but more, the battery was flat.  I don't remember what it was reading, I think around 200mA, which is way too much.  Security system was like 2mA if I recall correctly.

[FLY-DOG]

I know a bad diode in a voltage regulator can cause this too.

[Twolanerider]

The electrical engineer says:

Pretty much what TwoLane says, however, instead of using a test light, use an OHM meter.  Have to wire in series like you would the test light.  I found that the memory on my radio was bad, and causing the battery to drain over 48 hours.  1 day I would be OK, but more, the battery was flat.  I don't remember what it was reading, I think around 200mA, which is way too much.  Security system was like 2mA if I recall correctly.

Go to Harbor Freight and check out their part number 67725.  Even easier than putting a meter in line.  It's a little meter that simply plugs in to a fuse socket allowing a draw measurement of circuits one at a time without ever unhooking the batter.  Cheap handy little tool.

[DCFIREMANN]

Go to Harbor Freight and check out their part number 67725.  Even easier than putting a meter in line.  It's a little meter that simply plugs in to a fuse socket allowing a draw measurement of circuits one at a time without ever unhooking the batter.  Cheap handy little tool.

Don now that os bad A$$!!!!! I need one. Chasing electrical problems on these bikes just got easier. With everything that can and will pull voltage, this will make your life so much easier!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Twolanerider]

Don now that os bad A$$!!!!! I need one. Chasing electrical problems on these bikes just got easier. With everything that can and will pull voltage, this will make your life so much easier!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

It really is a handy little tool for those times it's occasionally needed Mike.  For hundreds of years I'd done it like we all head with a meter in line between cables and the battery.  Then saw that one day at HF.  Hadn't seen the same thing anywhere else before.  Bought two of them actually.  One for each size of the blade type fuses.  It's more convenient than the old way.

[260SCRMR]

Make sure to check the positive cable connection at the starter as well as the battery. Power goes there before anything else. That's where my problem was.

[ultrafxr]

Go to Harbor Freight and check out their part number 67725.  Even easier than putting a meter in line.  It's a little meter that simply plugs in to a fuse socket allowing a draw measurement of circuits one at a time without ever unhooking the batter.  Cheap handy little tool.

Got one today.  It's on sale for $10.99.