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[Grey Ghost]

I am in the process of installing my Fullsac C pipe, 2" cores and the TTS Map from Fullsac. I just got my bike back from its 1000 mile check before starting on the project and was really surprised to find the 2 Exhaust Flange nuts for the front cylinder were only finger tight. In fact after attempting to loosen the first nut, I tried the second with just my fingers and found that I could actually tighten the nut with my fingers. The 2 nuts for the flange on the rear cylinder were barely snug, but not at all tight. (Probably contributed to the overall noise of the engine.)

After getting the OEM pipe off, I notice there was a fair amount of blowby on the flange and the pipe for the front cylinder.

I don't know if the Exhaust Flange nuts are part of the loose fittings check on the 1000 mile (it should be), but at this point I no longer care. I will be doing all my own work from this point forward. The icing on the cake was having to clean up a significant amount of brake fluid in the area around the Rear brake master cylinder. The screws for the top on the reservoir were also less than finger tight.

I only mention all this as a heads up. It pays to spend time checking all the nuts and bolts on your ride. You never know . . .

[GregKhougaz]

Thanks for the tip.  If there was blow by as you say, I'm surprised you could not hear it.   

[Grey Ghost]

Thanks for the tip.  If there was blow by as you say, I'm surprised you could not hear it.  

I probably did, but it was mixed in with all the other motor noise. I have taken to riding with ear plugs to hide it all. So I missed the noise. I am surprised that the dealer tech didn't pick it up . . . then again, maybe that is "normal".

[SmokeyJoe]

Do you happen to know the torque on those  flanges?

[2006ULTRA]

I check my exhaust on a regular basis.  I've had mine come loose twice at the flange now since installing the new pipe.

I usually can start to hear the difference when they come loose.

Great reminder

[dayne66]

......added to the winter checklist!

[Grey Ghost]

Do you happen to know the torque on those  flanges?

The torqueing process is not as straight-forward as you might think . . . Note: this is for the installation of the head pipe as from the HD Service Manual. If you are after the final torque setting for the Exhaust flange Nuts, see # 1 and #2 below.

Once the pipes are on the bike and the flange nuts are loosely attached the sequence and torque settings are as follows:

1. First the Rear Cylinder - tighten the bottom nut to 9-18 in-lbs, then tighten the the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs. Go back and final tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs.

2. Then the Front Cylinder - tighten the top nut to 9-18 in-lbs, then tighten the bottom nut to 100-120 in-lbs. Go back and tighten the top nut to 100-120 in-lbs.

3. Tighten the flange locknut (where the rear of the pipe attaches to the frame) to 20-25 ft-lbs.

4. Next the crossover pipe clamp is also torqued to 20-25 ft-lbs

5. The crossover bracket bolt is then tightened to 14-18 ft-lbs.

6. Attach the heat shields - the clamp screws are tightened to 20-40 in-lbs.

[SmokeyJoe]

Thanx Grey Ghost  - I plan to install my Fullsac pipes this weekend, if I get the tune in time.

[Fxr4Rider]

When we drive 900 lb vibrators, stuff comes loose from time to time. I had my tach come loose from the fairing only after a month!