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[Maladjusted]

So as the subject line indicates... the sewing maching noise between 2200 and 2800 rpm has been completely eliminated!!

On install of the S&S Adj pushrods, the instructions said adjust from zero lash... 24 flats (4 full turns). In the video install, the S&S dude says 20 flats.

I went 24 turns on all 4 pushrods, as I said it is beautifully quiet, but I think I read somewhere that if the pushrods are tight, it can decrease performance.  This is where my question comes in... my butt dyno is telling me there should be more pull with the Feuling 574 Reaper cams. 

Should I back the rods down 4 turns each?

Thanks,
Mal

[grc]

So as the subject line indicates... the sewing maching noise between 2200 and 2800 rpm has been completely eliminated!!

On install of the S&S Adj pushrods, the instructions said adjust from zero lash... 24 flats (4 full turns). In the video install, the S&S dude says 20 flats.

I went 24 turns on all 4 pushrods, as I said it is beautifully quiet, but I think I read somewhere that if the pushrods are tight, it can decrease performance.  This is where my question comes in... my butt dyno is telling me there should be more pull with the Feuling 574 Reaper cams. 

Should I back the rods down 4 turns each?

Thanks,
Mal

I assume you meant to type 4 flats.

S&S pushrods are 32 threads per inch, and they recommend 24 flats (4 full turns) from zero lash on a standard lifter without travel limiters.  This will put the lifter piston down in the bore about .125".  If you were to back that off to 20 flats you would essentially have the piston centered in the bore (.104" out of .200" total travel available).  That's where a standard Harley lifter runs by design, centered.  I do know that other companies like Wood also recommend running extra preload on their lifters instead of running the piston centered.  I can't imagine it making enough difference in performance to be discernable to the ol' butt dyno, but I'll leave that question to the guys who do this stuff for a living. 


Jerry

[Maladjusted]

Yes... Sorry Jerry... 4 FLATS... Not turns.

Thanks for the response.   I think If I read your response right... Leave it.

[twinotter]

I would leave them at the .125 setting!! It will help the engine start easier if a lifter bleeds down slightly.
You must remember that these engines grow taller as the heat up, as much as .060according to some. The pushrods being steel will grow a little, but nowhere near the .060, the lifter has to accomodate the growth thru filling the bore under the lifter cup.
I have always set my lifters deeper than spec, say .160 , that leaves .040 under the lifter piston, .060 growth (max) puts the piston at centre in its travel.
S&S has their act together with this. Leave it as per instructions.  JMHO FWIW twinotter

[wnogood]

I have been having the same issues. Im at 18 flats on my S&S pushrods. Gonna try 24 tonight and see what that does...

[Maladjusted]

wnogood... I have the S&S lifters and their pushrods (and the Feuling 574 Reaper Cams)... I went 24 flats from Zero Lash. 

The sewing maching / chatter/ clatter from 2200 to 2800/3000 rpms has been COMPLETELY eliminated!  Absolutely quiet now.  The upgrade cost was well worth it just for the noise reduction!

Mal

[Mr. Warlock]

Did you use the lifters with the travel limiters or without?

[cahdbiker]

Good question. X2 CAHDBIKER

Did you use the lifters with the travel limiters or without?

[cahdbiker]

Maladjusted, that is great news. I will show your post to my tech at Bennett's Performance in LongBeach CA. Great shop with a good attitude and a  lot of knowledge and techs that really care about making their customers happy. CAHDBIKER

[wnogood]

I doubt he has the ones with travel limiter. I think 4 turns would have been really close to bottomed out....

[wnogood]

FWIW, I did 24 flats, much, much better!

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

We've been using S&S valvetrain products here for a looooooooooooong time, with the same results as being discussed.
Scott

[Maladjusted]

Sorry guys... missed the questions on this post.

I went with the S&S lifter WITHOUT the travel limiters.  I also went with the adj pushrods... not the Quickee or whatever they are called.  Had to finagle them in to the tappet blocks with the tappet covers, but got them in there.

I couldn't be happier with how quiet it is... well I should rephrase... I couldn't be happier with the eliminated chatter!   (I also figured out my warm up Idle issue see other post in the ECM forum)

Mal

[zeflash]

That sounds very promising ... I should have read this thread before reviving the other ticking thread
Pretty sure that's also what I'm hearing on mine. The explanations of how it's fine when the engine is cold and it gets worse when it heats up makes perfect sense and matches my own experience. the only difference is that in my case I'm hearing the ticking pretty much all over the RPM range when the engine is hot. It's actually maximized (the ticking) when I throttle a bit down after an acceleration.

Care to give the part references so that I know what I need to either order myself / give them to the dealer? Any idea how much time it took to put all this in, so that I know how much they are going to charge...

[Maladjusted]

Tappets withOUT the limted travel kit... $259.00 

http://www.sscycle.com/product/Twin-Cam-88-and-96/Valve-Train/Tappets/Tappet-Set-p20363.html

Adjustable Pushrods $179.00  (you might want to consider the Quickee... makes future work easier)

http://www.sscycle.com/product/Twin-Cam-88-and-96/Valve-Train/Pushrods/Adjustable-Pushrod-Kit-p20789.html

Cam Installation kit - I used the Feuling Install kit as I ordered the cams from Feuling.

Cams - Feuling 574 Reapers