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[Unbalanced]

Any motor can do it if the timing is right, but the the bigger inch motors when you thrash them or power shift you can break the belts pretty easily nearly harpooned Otis playing around a few years back and that was the larger belt for the side cars       To help eleviate those issues a few friends have been buying the auto shifter from Power Commander and coupling that with their power commanders shift is smoother and faster and you can set where you want it, works off pressure on the shifter and saves belts.

[Unbalanced]

The best answer I can give is, if you happen to break a chain, you can wrap the chain around the sprockets and fix it with a replacement link. With a broken belt you have to have the motorcycle towed to either your garage or a shop to have the outer and inner primary removed, the rear wheel removed, the left exhaust removed( if you have duals ) the swing arm shaft has to removed to work the new replacement in between the frame and the rear swing arm.

Of course if you ride without doing hole shots or burnouts the chances of the rear belt breaking early in its useful life is low.

FWIW they now also have a broken belt kit to get you home as well, not as good as a new link to a chain, but they are out there.

[petewerner]

I think a pole on broken belts would be interesting! Perhaps how many miles when broke and if any abnormal events like big rocks and holes punched through the belt... I think I might learn something and perhaps answer as to the odds of being broken down on the street and being hauled to shop. I don't know how to do it or even if this site supports polls??? I think it does but? just a thought??

[spook120]

Maybe I can give you some insight on a big motor scooter.  I have a 06 street glide with  T-man 120.  130/130 at the wheel.  It is a carb bike with a 48 mikuni flatslide.  The bike has instand throttle response, idles like a harley should, and will make your eyes bleed.  At 80 if you crack the throttle you are gone!!.  I put the motor in the bike before I picked the bike up from the dealer. The original motor is garage art.  Now the not so good.... It has left me sit 3 times when it took out the starter.  I have tried 3 different starters (the stock one lasted 2 weeks...). It is tuned to the teeth and has compression releases.  Heavy duty cables, battery, ect. The bike is great to ride, but i certainly would NOT take the bike into the boondocks of the western states.  It is a big piece of iron and it does have some heat coming from it  Maybe the best thing I can say is that if it is your only bike, think twice.  I have a BMW GSA and a soon to be picked up 2011 CVO streetglide to fall back on when the bike gets an attitude...  Just saying.  Spook.

[Unbalanced]

Spook do you have the heavy ring gear and pinion in your bike?   Are you running a harley high output starter and harley battery?   

I ask this because S&S made me get rid of a high torque aftermarket starter and battery and put in the harley high output starter and battery and wahhhhh la the bike started fine been that way ever since.   

Spook have you broken any belts yet ?   

[spook120]

 I have tried three different starters including the HD unit. The current one seems to be lasting a bit better and was recommended by T man.  Can't recall what if is at the moment.  Never broke a belt in 12000 miles, but then I don't do wheelies, huge burn outs, ect.  But I do drive the bike as it was intended. The bike does what it is designed to do, but it gets old not knowing if you are going to make it home.  Maybe i am just getting old. Spook

[Unbalanced]

FWIW   The heavy ring gear and pinion coupled with the HD battery and HO starter have done the trick for me the last 5 years and that motor is 143/147.   

[Lever]

why would you need the HD ring gear battery etc  when you have the compression release's?  aren't they doing the job ?  seems to me the 110 stock has very high cranking pressure and the OEM release's seem to be doing the job
wouldn't it be more cost effective to modified the release's then to upgrade gears ,starter and battery

[geezerglide]

When I had the JIMs 120 in my Faux SE 2003 RG i just has the manual compression releases, stock HD Battery and welding cable as the battery to starter wiring, never had a staring problem.

geezerglide

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I would also take a hard look at the S&S 124 crate engine.. Color will be an issue, as for RP stuff .. well that is your call.. Chain drive is only needed is your are pulling holse shots. We have done many 120R's and now dealing with our 2nd S&S 124.. either a good drop in, with work both will only get better.. Cost of these is very nice. Good luck with your new build

[CVOThunder]

Ya, I don't understand not painting the S&S 124 or 120R in a granite color. Not to be snooty but seems to me that people who can afford a CVO would be the ones more apt to have a bigger money tree. Sure we have numerous other options but it's almost like they made an agreement to specifically exclude the CVO crowd from crate motors. JMO

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I do not think that is the case, more so the amount of CVO engines vs everything else is  a cost point than anything..

[gsxrboy96]

I'm wanting more power than I currently have.  I'm not sure what else I can do to make my 110 better and most importantly reliable.  I bought the bike used and the motor work had already been done.  Some say the cams I have are too big for my build??

I rode my brother in laws 08 Streetglide with a built 113 and it is much more impressive than my 110.  We haven't raced each other but his motor is more responsive and seems to pull a lot harder than mine.

I'm considering a 120r but can I get one in gray??  Otherwise I'll have a black motor and gray tranny etc.

I would like to be at least 130/130

What are your suggestions?

  what compression is your bike currently set up at ?

[cvobiker]

If you're after a strong bullet-proof high quality motor, consider one of the RB Racing Orca motors, I.E. their 126". 

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/113orca.htm

[2006ULTRA]

  what compression is your bike currently set up at ?

I'm about 10.1 comp.  I talked to Bob Woods and he said 10.1 is enough for my cams.  He really didn't comment too much on my combination other than to tell me to go get a dyno tune.  He suggested a guy 90 miles from me so I may check in to that just to see where I'm at before I go any further.

I did notice on Wood's sight in the dyno section that a lot of the 110 builds were using the larger throttle body, mainly if they had head work.

I also agree that us CVO customers should have a choice to order a crate motor.  Why would you spend the kind of money we spend to have a two tone engine bay with an off color engine.