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[2006ULTRA]

I'm wanting more power than I currently have.  I'm not sure what else I can do to make my 110 better and most importantly reliable.  I bought the bike used and the motor work had already been done.  Some say the cams I have are too big for my build??

I rode my brother in laws 08 Streetglide with a built 113 and it is much more impressive than my 110.  We haven't raced each other but his motor is more responsive and seems to pull a lot harder than mine.

I'm considering a 120r but can I get one in gray??  Otherwise I'll have a black motor and gray tranny etc.

I would like to be at least 130/130

What are your suggestions?

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

I would think the best advice you can get is to call Scott @ Hillside Cycles, TR @ Tman Performance, Steve @ GMR Performance, R&R Cycles to name a few.  Tell them what you want to build and they will give you the answers you want to build the power your looking for.

As far as the grey engine cases go, your gonna have to use your stock cases to keep it the same color

[2006ULTRA]

I was afraid of that.  If I can't get a 120r in Granite then I need to figure out a different program.

I have dealt with GMR in the past on a 98" build. 

I've been told I don't have enough compression to run the cams I'm using??  I just hate to guess at cams etc because my heads are ported and my motor was set up for this combo.  My guess is they just build the thing to make good peak numbers on the dyno but not all around usable power. If the power and TQ at hand is in the right place the bike can actually be faster with lower peak numbers.

[HD Street Performance]

Rev Performance (RP) makes 4.125" granite cylinders and packages a kit to convert the 110 to 117. I don't think GMR is a dealer for RP but he  can speak to that. Tman Performance will however sell you those as will many other dealers for RP or Drag Specialties. Set CR at 10.8

Your heads should be independently evaluated to be sure they will perform (flow and lack of turbulence) and are in a stable configuration (guides seals springs valve seats) for the long haul. The 9b will go there in terms of power and be torque friendly in a 117" bagger at the CR I stated plus make good numbers. The case can be upgraded to a Timken. Crank should be welded trued and balanced for the new piston weight. The hp number will require an ideal exhaust (you have that baffle needs to be right), a larger than stock TB/injectors and a good tune. The feel below 4k and stop light to stop light with the stock TB will be fine and not offer any torque or power constraint but above will start to pinch the numbers. You decide if the number is all that important. I suggest probably not how much time are you at >4K rpm? So torque curve is the one that will provide the wow factor in reality for most. Horsepower still is respectable.
This build should not break the bank, run reliably, and retain the granite color. More importantly it will run fine on pump gas and make 130 square too

[2006ULTRA]

Thank you for the reply, that is some great information.  What is the estimate for a build like that?

[Lever]

i hear RP cylinders are made of a special medal that makes them near impossible to bore when it comes time they need to be bored at a later date

[gstrickland]

I am also in the process of the same swap with a 2009 SERG, my questions are different. If any members have done this swap, my question is, did you retain the belt drive or switch to chain? I have also already had my 110 built (109 h.p. 130 tq.) and I want more also, my thoughts were more of taking my original motor and keeping it healthy, ripping this 120r's guts out without worrying about detonating my numbers motor...I'm not looking down @ the cases when it's in the wind, so this doesn't concern me.

[sadunbar]

I am also in the process of the same swap with a 2009 SERG, my questions are different. If any members have done this swap, my question is, did you retain the belt drive or switch to chain? I have also already had my 110 built (109 h.p. 130 tq.) and I want more also, my thoughts were more of taking my original motor and keeping it healthy, ripping this 120r's guts out without worrying about detonating my numbers motor...I'm not looking down @ the cases when it's in the wind, so this doesn't concern me.

I don't know of anyone who has switched from belt to chain drive (upon installation of a 120r motor).  All have retained the belt drive...   

[Unbalanced]

+1 for having kept the stock belt

I did convert my roadking at one point and went back to the belt.   Chain lube was everywhere on the saddlebags, rim etc and the chain kept stretching and removing links was an awful pain.    Even at 140+ hp / torque the stock belt is holding up.   Can I break it sure, but just requires a little bit of self control.

[HD Street Performance]

The RP cylinders can be restored by them.
The granite can be powder coated as well for the die hards.

[Unbalanced]

Little more labor but order the black motor and just buy a black transmission case and move your gearset.

The Nikasil cylinders can be worked on if needed by Rev Performance.  

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

I am also in the process of the same swap with a 2009 SERG, my questions are different. If any members have done this swap, my question is, did you retain the belt drive or switch to chain? I have also already had my 110 built (109 h.p. 130 tq.) and I want more also, my thoughts were more of taking my original motor and keeping it healthy, ripping this 120r's guts out without worrying about detonating my numbers motor...I'm not looking down @ the cases when it's in the wind, so this doesn't concern me.

Speak with Frank @ Dragos Bike Works he has a conversion setup to swap out from belt to chain >>> http://dragosbikeworks.com/dragos_ids_chain_drive_for_08_up_baggers

[petewerner]

Why would U change out the belt to chain? I'm curious as to the reasoning why??

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

Why would U change out the belt to chain? I'm curious as to the reasoning why??

The best answer is, if you happen to break a chain, you can wrap the chain around the sprockets and fix it with a replacement link. With a broken belt you have to have the motorcycle towed to either your garage or a shop to have the outer and inner primary removed, the rear wheel removed, the left exhaust removed( if you have duals ) the swing arm shaft has to removed to work the new replacement in between the frame and the rear swing arm.

Of course if you ride without doing hole shots or burnouts the chances of the rear belt breaking early in its useful life is low. 



 

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

The best answer I can give is, if you happen to break a chain, you can wrap the chain around the sprockets and fix it with a replacement link. With a broken belt you have to have the motorcycle towed to either your garage or a shop to have the outer and inner primary removed, the rear wheel removed, the left exhaust removed( if you have duals ) the swing arm shaft has to removed to work the new replacement in between the frame and the rear swing arm.

Of course if you ride without doing hole shots or burnouts the chances of the rear belt breaking early in its useful life is low.