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[1abastarsmda]

I got my new bike back with a replacement engine last week. I'm up to 1100 miles on the bike now (800 on the first engine and 300 on the new one), and I'm pretty sure this engine will last much longer than the first.  I decided to check the codes tonight and there were 12 of them.  I'm soooo pleased that the dealer sent me home with all of those codes and didn't check them out and clear them.  I only took it around the block, so I'm hoping that they don't come back tomorrow.

Anyway, I do have one code left that comes back immediately as soon as I start the bike.  B1006 Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments.  Since I got the bike back, I did install a Badlands Load Equalizer and front and rear led turn signals from Custom Dynamics.  Is it possible that this has something to do with the code?  I have nothing attached to the accessory connection.  Is it something that I should be concerned about?  Could it be something that has nothing to do with the led lamp setup?  Perhaps a problem with the voltage regulator?

This weekend, I'll remove the load equalizer and led lamps, and see if the code disappears.  If that is the cause, then again, should I be concerned about it?

If that doesn't get rid of it, I will take it back to the dealer to add to my warranty work total.  It just seems that the only surefire way to get something done correctly the first time is to point them in the right direction when I drop it off.

[hdbrad03]

Code B1006 will be displayed when line accessory voltage is greater than 16.0 Volts for more than 10 seconds.

This is telling that your instruments are geting to much
voltage should be 11.6V-13.8V
i would check the voltage regulator probably it is faulty, check also the Battery ground cable !

According to the Electrical Diagnostics manual

The codes you mention come under the issues of "Accessory or Ignition Line Overvoltage"

Furthermore, Ignition and accessory voltage is constantly monitored by the speedometer (terminal 1 ignition and terminal 6 accessory). If
the battery voltage fails to meet normal operating parameters, a DTC is set.
• DTC B1006 is displayed when accessory line voltage is greater than 16.0 volts for longer than 5 seconds.
• DTC B1007 is displayed when ignition line voltage is greater than 16.0 volts for longer than 5 seconds.

As others have mentioned the fuse and relays need to be check/cleaned and coated with dielectric grease.

I would also add the following connections to clean and grease with dielectric grease:
1) Speedometer and Tachometer connections
2) Voltage Regulator Connections


 

   Brad

[1abastarsmda]

Thanks Brad.  The b1007 code wasn't even one of the codes that came up at all.  Being that the engine was just replaced, my money is on the regulator, or maybe just the connection itself.  I didn't see how the led setup could come into play, but as easy as it is to change it back to stock, I figured that I can at least eliminate the shop telling me that this is what the problem is and hoping I go away.  I wish that I had thought to check the codes before I took the bike back.  Actually, if it weren't for you showing me how to check the codes when we were in Eureka Springs a few years back, I wouldn't even know that I could do this.  It has clued me into what to look for on my bike a few times and each time has saved me having to go to the shop. 

By the way, I never made it to Erie once this year.  I was in the Sturgis area during Erie's bike week and every other weekend we planned on an Erie getaway ended up with a ride in a different direction altogether.  Give my regards to Val.

[Rooster]

Seems there has been talk of some bad regulators, some overcharging

[1abastarsmda]

Well, I put the turn signals back to stock bulbs and removed the load equalizer, and sure enough, the code went away.  So, now the question becomes, am I at risk by putting the LED's and Load Eq back on the bike?

[Twolanerider]

Well, I put the turn signals back to stock bulbs and removed the load equalizer, and sure enough, the code went away.  So, now the question becomes, am I at risk by putting the LED's and Load Eq back on the bike?

Do it one at at time Dave.  It's very (very very very) likely an issue with the load equalizer.  But it's no tough thing to do the bulbs and the equalizer separately.  That way you'll know for sure.  When the equalizer causes the problem again you can tell the vendor for sure that you need another one under warranty.

[Twolanerider]

Also, whose equalizer is it.  There's a surprising number of those things in the aftermarket.  Some of them are absolute junk too.  I've had good luck with the units carrying the "Badlands" brand name.  Enough so they're the only ones I use if for myself or given the choice for someone else.  No doubt others that do ok also.  They're just a comfortable choice for me with my experience with them.

[1abastarsmda]

Also, whose equalizer is it.  There's a surprising number of those things in the aftermarket.  Some of them are absolute junk too.  I've had good luck with the units carrying the "Badlands" brand name.  Enough so they're the only ones I use if for myself or given the choice for someone else.  No doubt others that do ok also.  They're just a comfortable choice for me with my experience with them.

Badlands Load Equalizer and front and rear led turn signals from Custom Dynamics.  I'll give it a try separately tomorrow.  It's too late to start the bike tonight.  Some of my insane neighbors actually like to sleep at night.  Can you imagine that?

[Twolanerider]

Badlands Load Equalizer and front and rear led turn signals from Custom Dynamics.  I'll give it a try separately tomorrow.  It's too late to start the bike tonight.  Some of my insane neighbors actually like to sleep at night.  Can you imagine that?

Seems like they've got a very damaged sense of prioratities....

[1abastarsmda]

The plot thickens.....I put everything back to stock and let the bike run about 10 minutes, and sure enough, I have a b1006 code again.  Now I don't know what is causing the code.  However, I just had another thought.  I have the Kuryaken  (Trucklite) Phase 6 LED headlamp and passing lamps, along with the connection to keep the passing lamps on with the high beams.  Isn't that setup somehow connected with the Accessories Switch?  Anybody else have that setup that is getting the same code?  The other thing I found out tonight is that my right front turn signal has a problem.  When I put in a bulb, it works for the turn signal, but not the running light if I turn the bulb the entire way into place.  I have to turn the bulb back a not or so, kind of between where it should be and the position where it would pull back out, and then it works properly for both running and turn signal.  Either way, I'll be taking that to the dealer for replacement, but I'm wondering if that could be causing some kind of overload on the system.  I can't think of anything else that I have changed or have a problem with in the electrical system.  Anybody have any additional thoughts on the above?  Don, Brad...any ideas?

[Twolanerider]

On admittedly a quick thought I can't think of any reason either having the LEDs up front or having the spots rewired would throw an overvoltage warning.  Same for the fouled up socket.  Even if it were shorting to its case I'd not expect an overvoltage warning.  First thoughts on that are still problems in/around the charging system.

[1abastarsmda]

On admittedly a quick thought I can't think of any reason either having the LEDs up front or having the spots rewired would throw an overvoltage warning.  Same for the fouled up socket.  Even if it were shorting to its case I'd not expect an overvoltage warning.  First thoughts on that are still problems in/around the charging system.

I guess I'll throw this at the dealer and aim them back toward the voltage regulator, or whatever else they can come up with.  After getting a new engine, I guess any connection could be loose somewhere.

[Twolanerider]

I guess I'll throw this at the dealer and aim them back toward the voltage regulator, or whatever else they can come up with.  After getting a new engine, I guess any connection could be loose somewhere.

Good luck man.  It sucks getting amped up a bit thinking that a major repair or upgrade is done and you're ready to enjoy all this is new and fun; then you get stuck chasing something.  Will keep the finger crossed they find it quickly and without causing any indigestion.

[1abastarsmda]

Good luck man.  It sucks getting amped up a bit thinking that a major repair or upgrade is done and you're ready to enjoy all this is new and fun; then you get stuck chasing something.  Will keep the finger crossed they find it quickly and without causing any indigestion.

I'm not getting too bent out of shape over this.  I pretty much bought this bike knowing that I probably wouldn't get a lot of miles in for the remainder of the season.  I'll just ask them to keep it as long as necessary that they don't send it back to me still having the problem.  They aren't real busy at this time of the year at my dealer, so they don't have any reason to rush it out the door without finding the source of the problem.  I was glad that it was real slow there when I needed an engine.  The biggest problem I have with repairs there isn't that they don't know what they are doing, but rather that they have rushed to get it done, and that's when I have to take the bike back for either the same problem or something else they caused in the process.  That can obviously be very irritating.  At any rate, I probably won't even take it in any time soon.  I have some other parts that I haven't even ordered yet that I am going to have them install, so I'll just wait and get it all done at once, maybe later next month.  I was just hoping to solve this one on my own.  So much for that idea.

[Eqcons]

I must have missed something, Dave - why was your engine replaced?

Jim