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[Midnight Rider]

Just be sure you also add a fuel management device as well. These bikes run really lean out of the box and this will just get worse with an exhaust change. The TTS is the best tuner available.

I call bullchit in the dealer with the Teflon coating comment

They use the Teflon so that the Bullchit the dealer throws at you won't stick...

[Midnight Rider]

This is just me, but I wouldn't hammer a bike on the Dyno until I put at least 100 miles on it, unless the dealer was going to do the initial break in on the Dyno.  But I wouldn't trust my dealer to do it the way I'd want it done.

If you were going to install a Fullsac header with the cores, and then load the map provided via the TTS, then no problem 'cause you wouldn't really need to Dyno the bike until later and you wanted to get the last little bit out of it.  But the canned map provided by Fullsac lets the bike run just fine.

[ffltjeff]

This is just me, but I wouldn't hammer a bike on the Dyno until I put at least 100 miles on it, unless the dealer was going to do the initial break in on the Dyno.  But I wouldn't trust my dealer to do it the way I'd want it done.

If you were going to install a Fullsac header with the cores, and then load the map provided via the TTS, then no problem 'cause you wouldn't really need to Dyno the bike until later and you wanted to get the last little bit out of it.  But the canned map provided by Fullsac lets the bike run just fine.

X2

[GregKhougaz]

Agree with Terry and Jeff but you can do the initial break in on the dyno.  Here's a great article that some of us have used:  Break In Secrets.  It discusses break in on the dyno, street and/or track. 

[Midnight Rider]

I personally agree with the article Greg references in his post.  IMO, the key thing is to let the engine do the braking on deceleration.  I do 3rd gear pulls on the street, after the motor has completely warmed up, and run it up to between 60-70 mph, then let the engine brake down to 2200 rpm, rinse and repeat until I've got about 50 miles on the engine, then it's good to go.  I still try to avoid constant throttle positions, like Interstate running, for the next couple of hundred miles.

As Greg said, you can do the same thing on a Dyno, IF you trust the Dyno operator to do it.  Since I don't trust dealers any further than I can throw any given person that works there, they would not stick my bike on a Dyno right out of the box.  Of course, there are exceptions, as some dealers are good ones, and some of the techs that work at various dealers are also good ones.  But, from my personal experience, the dealer f's up more than they fix, so they never touch my bike unless it's a warranty issue, and even then, I feel like I'm rolling dice.

[doublerunner]

Thank you very much for the info and the article. I would have never known.

Besides the initial breaking in, I took away some other good pointers;

1. Start with regular oil, not synthetic. This means I will have to have my dealer do this when he preps the bike as I believe the cvo's come with synthetic oil already

2. Change the oil and filter after 20 miles. This just makes sense as does doing this more often up until the usage of synthetic oil.

3. Don't go with synthetic until at least 1500 miles

Thanks again for all the info. I really appreciate it 
DR

By the way that information on the break in process should be a sticky at the top of the forum

[Midnight Rider]

Well...you take what you want to from the article.  I do believe in the running part of the advice, and I even dropped my oil and filter after 50 miles, but more because I wanted to put my brand in it.  I do NOT really buy the non synthetic oil part of the article though, and for a couple of reasons.  The guy is primarily talking about water cooled bikes, so most any quality oil will do fine as the motors do not get all that hot.  An air cooled V twin however, is a different animal, and since synthetic oil is more resistant to breaking down due to high oil temps, I don't buy into the "use dino oil" thing, particularly not on a 110" Harley engine.  In fact, it's not REALLY necessary to change the oil that soon, as the filter will catch any "stuff" floating around in the oil, but it won't HURT to do it.

That's my rationalization, and I'm sticking to it...

[doublerunner]

I believe in the running part as well. These were just some additional things that make sense to me

Thanks again
DR

[Midnight Rider]

I believe in the running part as well. These were just some additional things that make sense to me

Thanks again
DR

If you're breaking the engine in during cooler weather, Dino oil would be fine, but I don't know that I'd change it just to have Dino oil in it rather than the Syn 3 that comes in all the holes.  I would put a task specific lubricant in the Transmission and Primary at the 1K service.  Especially the tranny...Redline Shockproof makes a big difference in how smoothly the bike shifts, and in finding neutral.  Redline also makes a Primary specific oil as well, or you can use Automatic Transmission Fluid....it's a wet clutch, after all.

[doublerunner]

Just be sure you also add a fuel management device as well. These bikes run really lean out of the box and this will just get worse with an exhaust change. The TTS is the best tuner available.

I call bullchit in the dealer with the Teflon coating comment

My bike arrived at the dealer today. Had to go see it and also go over the mods. While I was there he showed me a piston off a bike and it is teflon coated. Plain as day it was right there

[grc]

I just purchased a 2013 cvo Ultra Classic. It will be in in about a week or so. My dealer told me that with the way the new bikes are built that they have a teflon coating so I don't need to wait until I put 1,000 miles on the bike to change out the exhaust. He said I can do it right now, before ever riding it. I am probably going to go with the whole system and take out the cat and use the Rinehart true duals

But does this sound right? Can I replace the exhaust right away without having any miles on it?

Thanks
DR

My bike arrived at the dealer today. Had to go see it and also go over the mods. While I was there he showed me a piston off a bike and it is teflon coated. Plain as day it was right there

The piston skirts have been coated for a whole lot of years DR, it's not something new like that dealership person seemed to imply, and it has absolutely nothing to do with the question about changing the exhaust system.  Thus the BS callouts by hd-dude and Midnight Rider.

If you want to change out the exhaust immediately versus waiting for a few hundred or even a thousand miles, it's no big deal.  People do it every day, and you might be surprised at just how many brand new Harley's are ridden home for the first time with aftermarket mufflers or pipes on them.  If you plan to do the entire exhaust and not just mufflers, it is highly recommended that you also do something with the tune as others have noted. 

Jerry