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[bikerbum11]

Hey guys, I just sold my 2010 CVO Ultra which I ran a complete Fullsac system with the 2 ¼ inch baffles. I had a small issue and am wondering if anyone else has the same problem with the Fullsac or with any other system.
When the bike is at an idle, and I crack the throttle, there is a dead spot or a delay. Almost like the system has a hiccup. I heard of one other person running the Fullsac system that was experiencing the same problem.
My new 2013 CVO will be here in a couple weeks and I'm leaning toward a different system this time.
My local shop suggest a S&S head pipe with Big Louie slip ons. I still want to keep the two muffle look.
Anyone having issues??

[OBB]

I just read yesterday where someone was experiencing something similar. Turn out to be a loose 02 sensor. Maybe your old one had one loosen up a bit.

[lilcoot]

It's not normal.

Have you talked to Steve at Fullsac?

They're very knowledgeable and helpful, and could have probably emailed you a map to clear that up.

[grc]

A hesitation or miss or hiccup or whatever one calls it when blipping the throttle is fairly common on the ETC bikes, but it's not caused by the pipes.  Did you also do the TTS tune with Steve's map or a dyno tune? 

The stock Harley electronic throttle strategy helps create what feels like a dead spot when you blip the throttle, and it will be that way with stock pipes or aftermarket pipes if nothing is done to change the throttle response curve.  There are threads on the site about the throttle response issue, and there are solutions including using the TTS to change the throttle response curve or there are add-ons like the V&H ThrottlePak that does the same thing.  Perhaps this response curve issue is what you are really experiencing.

Jerry

[bikerbum11]

A hesitation or miss or hiccup or whatever one calls it when blipping the throttle is fairly common on the ETC bikes, but it's not caused by the pipes.  Did you also do the TTS tune with Steve's map or a dyno tune? 
The stock Harley electronic throttle strategy helps create what feels like a dead spot when you blip the throttle, and it will be that way with stock pipes or aftermarket pipes if nothing is done to change the throttle response curve.  There are threads on the site about the throttle response issue, and there are solutions including using the TTS to change the throttle response curve or there are add-ons like the V&H ThrottlePak that does the same thing.  Perhaps this response curve issue is what you are really experiencing.

Jerry

Yes I did the TTS download from Fullsac and that's were I thought the issue might have been. I don't remember the bike having this issue when it was new.

[roadking71865]

I posted earlier on the same problem.  Steve @ Fullsac sent me a new map and it's better but not corrected.   I also don't remember my bike having this problem when it was stock.  Maybe I'll check the O2 sensor as someone posted earlier. 

[bikerbum11]

I posted earlier on the same problem.  Steve @ Fullsac sent me a new map and it's better but not corrected.   I also don't remember my bike having this problem when it was stock.  Maybe I'll check the O2 sensor as someone posted earlier. 

Thanks, Glad to know I'm not the only one having the issue.
I always wondered about the TTS download with Steve doing the dyno testing at his facility out west and I'm in Michigan with a total different climate.
Not sure what system I'm going with yet on the new bike. I had my 10' CVO on the dyno after installing a full Fullsac system and I wasn't that impressed with the numbers. Maybe that had something to do with the throttle response...

[Midnight Rider]

One of the more common complaints with the stock bikes is the lag in throttle response.  Normally, the map from Fullsac corrects that issue to some extent.  I assume you are sure that the O2 sensors are tightened, and did not get crossed up during the install?  No exhaust leaks?  No intake leaks?  My bike runs great with the canned map and I live in Alabama, which is not significantly different than Michigan in altitude, etc. Besides, the ECM adapts to those changes, pump fuel differences, etc.

You should be able to take a bike tuned in Florida and ride it to Pikes Peak.  Of course, if you put the bike on a Dyno on top of Pikes Peak, it would show different numbers, but it should RUN fine.

What kind of numbers do you expect out of an exhaust change?  A 10% increase in HP/TQ is about all one can reasonably expect, so TQ in the neighborhood of 110-115 would be normal.  10% is a pretty good bang for the buck.  Some people get slightly more, some slightly less.  A lot depends on the Dyno and who's operating it, the weather conditions, etc.

[roadking71865]

Where are the O2 sensors?  I'm going to check mine out tonight.

[bikerbum11]

Where are the O2 sensors?  I'm going to check mine out tonight.

They are located on the head pipe.

[Midnight Rider]

Where are the O2 sensors?  I'm going to check mine out tonight.

They are just in front of the X where the two pipes come together, located inboard of the chrome heat shield.

[Steve Cole]

There are several things that can cause what has been described, ALL of them can be cured with the TTS product. I'm not going to guess at what may or maynot of happened in the past but if anyone is stuck with a tuning issue/question just ask  or give us a call so we can get you fixed up if using a TTS product.

[T-Hawk]

My first throttle hiccup on the 2011 was in the middle of a parking lot while trying not let it stall out on a slight uphill grade... it hiccup'd and shut down.  I was still rolling enough to quickly restart and continue on.

It seemed that the only time it did this was in a slow roll in 1st gear... never noticed it once past a walking speed.

After getting the TTS programming started, I mentioned it to my mechanic and he noticed the idle position numbers was a little higher than they should have been and asked me how I shut down the bike when stopped.  I mentioned sometimes at the Run/Stop switch, and sometimes at the main ignition switch.

He said that the Throttle Position sensor is a constantly 'learning' sensor, and that I may have been slightly rolling on the throttle when I reached with my thumb to kill it at the Run/Stop switch.  Telling me to always release the throttle and shut down the bike with my right hand at the main switch, to avoid the throttle sensor from learning anything but Idle, when at Idle.

While I can't say his adjustment to the numbers for idle or my practice of shutting down at the main switch has corrected the problem, I can say that I haven't had a hiccup in more than 15,000 miles.

Just a thought.