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[jinxltd]

Ok here are the prelims:
2000 FLTRSEI 60k miles
Vance & Hinse slip ons other than that pretty stock.

I have had some drivability issues with it & so far I have found that intake seals leaking(fixed), and I inspected my cam chain tensioners & the rear shoe is dessimated!
So I am going to check runout & see if I can go gear to gear, if not I will go with the updated tensioner setup.
here are my questions & would like some Experienced advice & or direction.

1) What cams would you suggest? (aggressive ish riding style, I like power & do some long haul 2 up.)

2) want to go to true dual, can I
      A) modify  the pipes that cam with it & powder coat or chrome them?
      B) witch headers would you recommend if not to modify exiting?

Tats all I can think of for now but if you have been down this road & Im missing some good power add ons or info let me know please!

thanks

[Unbalanced]

I would consider the hippo build for your bike but go gear drive to get rid of the tensioners.

Some Porters to consider:

Sachs, WFO Larry, Mega-Flow, Bob Wright
Have someone clean up the heads, valve job, and set the compression to 10:1 for you.


The Build:

95"
570 S&S
Adjustables
S&S lifters

Good two into 1 Pipe with a falsie  will make more power, but if you go true duals try a muffler you can work with like the Super Trap with discs
Tune and ride

Antoher choice is
Andrews 37
Set compression to 9.6 to 1 and go from there  

[jinxltd]

I would consider the hippo build for your bike but go gear drive to get rid of the tensioners.

Some Porters to consider:

Sachs, WFO Larry, Mega-Flow, Bob Wright
Have someone clean up the heads, valve job, and set the compression to 10:1 for you.


The Build:

95"
570 S&S
Adjustables
S&S lifters

Good two into 1 Pipe with a falsie  will make more power, but if you go true duals try a muffler you can work with like the Super Trap with discs
Tune and ride

Antoher choice is
Andrews 37
Set compression to 9.6 to 1 and go from there  

Awesome! thanks for the reply!
I know nothing of the "hippo build" but I will check into this, thanks for giving me something to check in to look into

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Ok here are the prelims:
2000 FLTRSEI 60k miles
Vance & Hinse slip ons other than that pretty stock.

I have had some drivability issues with it & so far I have found that intake seals leaking(fixed), and I inspected my cam chain tensioners & the rear shoe is dessimated!
So I am going to check runout & see if I can go gear to gear, if not I will go with the updated tensioner setup.
here are my questions & would like some Experienced advice & or direction.

1) What cams would you suggest? (aggressive ish riding style, I like power & do some long haul 2 up.)

2) want to go to true dual, can I
      A) modify  the pipes that cam with it & powder coat or chrome them?
      B) witch headers would you recommend if not to modify exiting?

Tats all I can think of for now but if you have been down this road & Im missing some good power add ons or info let me know please!

thanks

S&S .570, or .585 E-Z Starts, and have the heads attended to, along with the proper compression set for either cam.
Scott

[Unbalanced]

I wouldn't even consider the the 585's in a bagger unless you are going to a lot bigger motor or a lot more compression.  Dyna maybe, but not roadglide and then you are going to ride 2 up.     

[jinxltd]

I wouldn't even consider the the 585's in a bagger unless you are going to a lot bigger motor or a lot more compression.  Dyna maybe, but not roadglide and then you are going to ride 2 up.     

ok Cool, What Would You Suggest?I Don't Have The $ For Head Work @ This Time? And Yes 2 Up Riding.

[Unbalanced]

Here are some options If you dont plan on doing any headwork
gotta watch the lift heights due to your stock springs are only good to 550 lift.

SE 204
SE 203
Andrews 26
S&S 510

planned Headwork then consider these cams 

Andrews 37    at 9.6 to 1
S&S 570    10 to 1

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The .510 come off too late, to be suggested in the company of the cams listed.
One that comes to the TOP of the list, under an early OEM spring head, at 10.0 cr, is a Wood 6.

[jinxltd]

Here are some options If you dont plan on doing any headwork
gotta watch the lift heights due to your stock springs are only good to 550 lift.

SE 204  <<<<<<
SE 203  <<<<<< are Either Of These Possibly What I Have In As A stock Cam set? Sorry I'm Not Sure Of The Factory Engine Specs.
Andrews 26
S&S 510

planned Headwork then consider these cams 

Andrews 37    at 9.6 to 1
S&S 570    10 to 1

Cool, Thanks For The Replies And The Options I Really Appreciate It.

[jinxltd]

The .510 come off too late, to be suggested in the company of the cams listed.
One that comes to the TOP of the list, under an early OEM spring head, at 10.0 cr, is a Wood 6.

Thanks For The Info, From What I'm Finding Out It May Be Ideal To Just Do My tensioners, Push Rod's, Tapits, Bearings And Save Up For A Monster Build, I Don't Want To Buy Things Twice But If My Cams Are Worn Out I'll Have To Consider At Least Some Upgrade!
N

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Thanks For The Info, From What I'm Finding Out It May Be Ideal To Just Do My tensioners, Push Rod's, Tapits, Bearings And Save Up For A Monster Build, I Don't Want To Buy Things Twice But If My Cams Are Worn Out I'll Have To Consider At Least Some Upgrade!
N

Good thinking on the "not doing it twice" thought.
Do some research, make some phone calls, and when your ready to pull the trigger, you'll have just what your looking for.
Scott

[Steve Cole]

One thing you really need to do is define where you want the power to be. Many chase numbers and then find out that it doesn't ride as nice as a lower power build does. Until you really define the area you want it's hard to guess at a camshaft. IF you are going to limit your choices to something that will bolt into your bike versus having the heads come off and get redone makes a big difference. Take your time as only you can answer the most important question. I know that most of us that cruise run from idle to 3500 most of the time with spirited riding once in awhile. Most bolt-in camshafts that work well below 4000 and not as good above 4000 OR not so good below 4000 and work well above 4000. Which group do you want to fall into?

[jinxltd]

so  I really appreciate all the good info & sorry if my next question is a no brainer, but here we go.
ok in 2000 the stock road glide cam with an 88c 1440 & the screamin (my bike ) eagle came with stage II big bore bringing it to a 95 1550. ok now here is where it gets blurry to me, I see on
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Content/Pages/Racing/screamin-eagle-parts.html   page 53

they have a conversion from 96 NOT  95 to 103!
so you guest it I want to know can I go to a 103 & not have to bore the case or some weird mod?

[Unbalanced]

The 88 to 95 is the same conversion that the 96 to 103 is.  The difference here is the 96 is a stroked motor  which is a different crank than you have.

Essentially your 95 uses the same cylinders that the 103 does, difference between them is the stroke (Crank).

The only way for you to get to a 103 is to change the crank, which means you have to split the cases about 25 hours by the book.   Personally i would leave the 95 if all I was doing was going to a 103, I happened to like the 95".

btw it was 1450 - 1550  88" to 95"
               1556 - 1690  96" to 103"     

[timo482]

to go 103 you have to change the crank  - different stroke

to