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[Carbon 60]

Just got a chance to ride after the Bassani 2-1 install. flashed with new tune fron Dynojet. seemd good for a while then lost power and sputtered off and on. checked the codes and saw a low/lean O2 sensor front Cyl. Have no idea what this means. sometimes it would run just fine and others it would lose power and pop.

In general there is no decel popping and when running well seems great. just this off and on power loss and then it throws the O2 code.

Any ideas help would be greatly appreciated.

"seemed good for a while then lost power"
Make sure you have at least 1/2 a tank of gas while checking this out.
Others have reported similar problems when running less than half a tank of fuel.
Garr

[Midnight Rider]

The only way a fuel tank level would be causing an issue is if you had a leak in one of the hoses in the tank, which is possible, but not the first thing I would think of checking.  Where did you get the map that was used to reprogram the ECM and how was it developed?  Just sticking a map in there that's totally generic may/may not work well enough.  Did you replace the exhaust gaskets when the pipes were changed? Make double sure you do not have a leak at the flanges or where the O2 sensors fit into the bungs.  If you're 100% positive that they aren't crossed, the connections are good, and there are no exhaust or intake leaks, the only thing it could be is the map is just incorrect and running too lean...

[CVOBreak]

The only way a fuel tank level would be causing an issue is if you had a leak in one of the hoses in the tank, which is possible, but not the first thing I would think of checking.  Where did you get the map that was used to reprogram the ECM and how was it developed?  Just sticking a map in there that's totally generic may/may not work well enough.  Did you replace the exhaust gaskets when the pipes were changed? Make double sure you do not have a leak at the flanges or where the O2 sensors fit into the bungs.  If you're 100% positive that they aren't crossed, the connections are good, and there are no exhaust or intake leaks, the only thing it could be is the map is just incorrect and running too lean...

everything seems okay, the map was from Dynojet for this bike. the problem is intermittent. runs great for a while then starts to sputter and throws the code. almost like a lose connection but i'm not finding it. ran autotune 5 times and seems fine for a while then throws the code. mostly when running in 6th gear at about 60. it will clear up and then do it again. if it just ran bad all the time it would be easier to pinpoint. what seems strange is that after I update the tune the ABS light stays on and then eventually goes off. the code says Odometer Learned Up. wierd.

[Pewter]

Are you running with the original sensors or have you fitted the wide band ones with the auto tune module?
Im not sure but I thought you run the Powervision with the original sensors blanked off unless you fit the wideband sensors with the add on auto tune unit. Certainly my 2012 CVO softail had the sensors blanked off until I added the auto tune unit and fitted the wide band sensors. It now runs like a dream.

[CVOBreak]

Are you running with the original sensors or have you fitted the wide band ones with the auto tune module?
Im not sure but I thought you run the Powervision with the original sensors blanked off unless you fit the wideband sensors with the add on auto tune unit. Certainly my 2012 CVO softail had the sensors blanked off until I added the auto tune unit and fitted the wide band sensors. It now runs like a dream.

I'm using the factory sensors but selected the autotune settings that use the factory sensors. (Basic). I'm going to call them on Monday but i followed their instructions to the letter. I may just buy the autotune module and go with the wide band sensors. I would have to take off the exhaust system to get to the rear O2 port. I'm going to ask if the 18mm sensors will work so I can eliminate the bungs I had to use on the Basani pipes.

[grc]

I'm using the factory sensors but selected the autotune settings that use the factory sensors. (Basic). I'm going to call them on Monday but i followed their instructions to the letter. I may just buy the autotune module and go with the wide band sensors. I would have to take off the exhaust system to get to the rear O2 port. I'm going to ask if the 18mm sensors will work so I can eliminate the bungs I had to use on the Basani pipes.

Reading that comment I am going to guess you used some of those adapters to allow you to install the 12mm stock sensors in bungs that were made for 18mm sensors.  If that is the case, you may in fact be partially shrouding the sensor and causing bad info to be sent to the ECM.  Just a thought.

Rather than throw more money at more parts from PowerVision, why not get a copy of the Electrical and Diagnostic Manual for your bike and a simple DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and do some diagnosis?  Verify the integrity of the sensor (those suckers are fragile and dropping them or banging them can ruin them), the integrity and resistance of the circuit, etc.  Throwing more money at a problem before you determine the root cause of the problem rarely ends well.  While a lot of dealer "techs" work that way, when it's my money being wasted I prefer to find and fix the real problem versus throw more money at more parts and hope to stumble upon an answer.  If it turns out the circuit and the sensor are fine, then perhaps it is those bung adapters after all?

JMHO - Jerry

[CVOBreak]

Reading that comment I am going to guess you used some of those adapters to allow you to install the 12mm stock sensors in bungs that were made for 18mm sensors.  If that is the case, you may in fact be partially shrouding the sensor and causing bad info to be sent to the ECM.  Just a thought.

Rather than throw more money at more parts from PowerVision, why not get a copy of the Electrical and Diagnostic Manual for your bike and a simple DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) and do some diagnosis?  Verify the integrity of the sensor (those suckers are fragile and dropping them or banging them can ruin them), the integrity and resistance of the circuit, etc.  Throwing more money at a problem before you determine the root cause of the problem rarely ends well.  While a lot of dealer "techs" work that way, when it's my money being wasted I prefer to find and fix the real problem versus throw more money at more parts and hope to stumble upon an answer.  If it turns out the circuit and the sensor are fine, then perhaps it is those bung adapters after all?

JMHO - Jerry

sounds like good advice, I am using the bungs, that being said a few others are as well on identical bikes without the issue. It could be that the O2 sensor is bad. I initially got the code on both but once I cleared it only the front returned. the entire situation just seems weird as the problem is intermittent. Thats the part that is frustrating. it acts like its running low on fuel for about 20 seconds then will run normally. The bungs partially obscuring the sensor sounds like it could cause the problem. Also the fuel pump sounds different when the bike is powered on more of a grinding sound. would intermittent low guel pressure cause the O2 sensor code?
it happend with a full tank of gas so I'm just at a loss. There is a shop near me that specializes in Dynojet equiped bikes and I may just have them take a look at it on the dyno.

[Layin the Pipe]

Did you get your replacement heat shield and if so how does it look? Still waiting on mine. Only issue I have so far is that my fuel gauge is way out of whack. After filling up it shows I have a range of 157 miles. Guessing I need to run a few tanks through before that works itself out.

[grc]

sounds like good advice, I am using the bungs, that being said a few others are as well on identical bikes without the issue. It could be that the O2 sensor is bad. I initially got the code on both but once I cleared it only the front returned. the entire situation just seems weird as the problem is intermittent. Thats the part that is frustrating. it acts like its running low on fuel for about 20 seconds then will run normally. The bungs partially obscuring the sensor sounds like it could cause the problem. Also the fuel pump sounds different when the bike is powered on more of a grinding sound. would intermittent low guel pressure cause the O2 sensor code?
it happend with a full tank of gas so I'm just at a loss. There is a shop near me that specializes in Dynojet equiped bikes and I may just have them take a look at it on the dyno.

Low fuel pressure would absolutely cause O₂ sensor codes.  Low fuel pressure translates into lean mixtures, and the sensor would produce a lean signal that the ECM would note was out of the normal range and set a code.  Have the dealer or shop tap into the high pressure fuel line with a gauge and see if there is a pressure drop that corresponds to the driveability problem you've been getting.  If it's only intermittent it may be necessary to run the bike on the dyno (or the road if they can mount the gauge safely) until the problem crops up. 

As discussed previously, it sounds like you have an underlying intermittent problem that isn't related to the tune.  You really need to get some qualified diagnostic help if you're not equipped to trace all this stuff down. 

Jerry

[CVOBreak]

Did you get your replacement heat shield and if so how does it look? Still waiting on mine. Only issue I have so far is that my fuel gauge is way out of whack. After filling up it shows I have a range of 157 miles. Guessing I need to run a few tanks through before that works itself out.

I'm guessing you didn't have any issues with how it is running? The heat shield looks okay, not great as there is a gap between it and the muffler. It is much better than what origionally came with it. don't remember how to post pictures but if you want to email me i can send you a few.

[Layin the Pipe]

No problem with the way its running. I put about 450 miles on since Thursday and runs like a top. Should have replacement heat shield sometime this week. If there is a gap I'm going to bug them until they get it right.

[CVOBreak]

No problem with the way its running. I put about 450 miles on since Thursday and runs like a top. Should have replacement heat shield sometime this week. If there is a gap I'm going to bug them until they get it right.

Bassani said the Gap is needed for air circulation and to prevent wear to the underlining chrome.