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[Jswerve]

Emailed D&D I have a new boss fatcat pipe on my bike and I am getting a spot on the heat shield  They are shipping me a new shield no questions asked. I am a little perplexed as to what cause it though since I have run this pipe on both of my baggers and this is the first time I have had a problem. Is it possible a bad tune could cause it in this location? I don't think so but I thought I would ask... Anyone else seen anything like it and know why it happened?

[Twolanerider]

Feel around the pipe in the area of that stripe of discoloration.  See if there's a hose clamp there.  Have seen that happen on Fatcats with the hose clamp (apparently) carrying enough more heat directly to the shield to cause the discoloration.

Whether that was the only cause or merely a point of transmission for some heat that was a little greater than it should have been due to tuning or port leaks I can't say.  I know it one case it happened almost immediately after having a pipe off, finding a bad clamp, replacing it with an off the shelf hose clamp and putting it all back together.  After seeing the problem then went and got a stainless steel clamp as was on it to begin with and the problem didn't get any worse (didn't spread more).

[Jswerve]

Feel around the pipe in the area of that stripe of discoloration.  See if there's a hose clamp there.  Have seen that happen on Fatcats with the hose clamp (apparently) carrying enough more heat directly to the shield to cause the discoloration.

Whether that was the only cause or merely a point of transmission for some heat that was a little greater than it should have been due to tuning or port leaks I can't say.  I know it one case it happened almost immediately after having a pipe off, finding a bad clamp, replacing it with an off the shelf hose clamp and putting it all back together.  After seeing the problem then went and got a stainless steel clamp as was on it to begin with and the problem didn't get any worse (didn't spread more).

Interesting... Very nice information. I just walked out to the garage and felt behind it and wouldn't you know, there is a hose clamp right behind it! WTF... Where did you get a stainless steel clamp? When I get the new pipe I am going to replace the stock clamp with it.

[Buckeye_Tuning]

Post a few pics of the pipe underneath.  THAT will tell the true story.

 

[Twolanerider]

Interesting... Very nice information. I just walked out to the garage and felt behind it and wouldn't you know, there is a hose clamp right behind it! WTF... Where did you get a stainless steel clamp? When I get the new pipe I am going to replace the stock clamp with it.

Any marine/boat shop can fix you up.  Should be all they use.  That may not solve it.  But it can't hurt.

[grc]

Odds are the stainless won't change the heat transfer, but it will make a big difference down the road in terms of corrosion.  The clamps that came with the heat shields should have been stainless to start with.

Make sure when you install the new shield and clamp that you rotate the clamp so the barrel and screw does not touch the heat shield.  The only contact should be at the little bracket for the clamp on the back of the shield.  As wurk-truk mentioned, take a good look at the actual pipe in that same location when you get the heat shield off.  If you see the same discoloration in the exact same area, then I would assume it wasn't a defective shield or the clamp causing the problem but in fact a localized hot spot in the pipe that transferred to the shield through the clamp.  If that's the case you may have a recurrence.   

JMHO - Jerry

[Ohio HD]

Same clamps here, 100% stainless. Note that when these have gotten hot, they don't unscrew as easily as steel clamps do.

http://azsupply.thomasnet.com/item/all-categories/power-seal-general-purpose-clamps-plated-hex-screw/item-12597

[Jswerve]

Post a few pics of the pipe underneath.  THAT will tell the true story.

 

When I get the replacement shield I tear into it I will.

[Jswerve]

Spoke with Leonard at D & D when he shipped my new heat shield (which he didn't have to do because it was caused by a rich rear cylinder thanks Leonard). We determined my tune needs some tweaking. He said from speeds of like 40-60 mph I am probably getting too much fuel to the rear cylinder. I am running a Dynojet Power Vision supplied by Fuelmoto with a canned map. I hadn't had a chance to use the auto tune function because I only got a few short rides in and the weather completely sucked here for a LONG TIME!!

Anyway, I pulled the rear shield off and left it off. I don't want to put it back on until the tuning issue is solved. I have run auto tune on the supplied map twice now, first tweaking the supplied map, then tweaking the new map. How many times are you guys running the auto tune on a map to refine it? How long should I drive with auto tune collecting data? First run was about 30 mins, second was around 20.

Does anyone know a really good tuner for the PV in Iowa?

[porthole]

Interesting... Very nice information. I just walked out to the garage and felt behind it and wouldn't you know, there is a hose clamp right behind it! WTF... Where did you get a stainless steel clamp? When I get the new pipe I am going to replace the stock clamp with it.

If you don't want to hold yourself up waiting for parts plan on replacing all the clamps when you change the pipe. Odds are if the pipe got hot enough to add color to the shield the clamps will not be reusable.

Besides, new clamps are easier to install.

Here is one site for just about any hardware, including dozens of styles of stainless clamps

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4wed

This particular clamp uses the smaller MM sized hex screw and makes for a sometimes easier install in tight places.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4x0x

[Jswerve]

If you don't want to hold yourself up waiting for parts plan on replacing all the clamps when you change the pipe. Odds are if the pipe got hot enough to add color to the shield the clamps will not be reusable.

Besides, new clamps are easier to install.

Here is one site for just about any hardware, including dozens of styles of stainless clamps

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4wed

This particular clamp uses the smaller MM sized hex screw and makes for a sometimes easier install in tight places.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4x0x

All parts are here laying in the garage. Leonard shipped them last week. I just don't want to put the shield back on until I fix the rear cylinder tuning issue otherwise I will have myself another bad heat shield.

[Jswerve]

If you don't want to hold yourself up waiting for parts plan on replacing all the clamps when you change the pipe. Odds are if the pipe got hot enough to add color to the shield the clamps will not be reusable.

Besides, new clamps are easier to install.

Here is one site for just about any hardware, including dozens of styles of stainless clamps

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4wed

This particular clamp uses the smaller MM sized hex screw and makes for a sometimes easier install in tight places.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-stainless-steel-hose-clamps/=mi4x0x

BTW I have some of these clamps at work and already brought some home, thanks!

[OBB]

Damn, Just noticed today I have that exact same problem in the exact same spot on my D&D setup. I need to look into that clamp issue. JSwerve, take some pix of the clamps that hold that shield on or at least the back side of the shield so I know what I'm getting into.

[Jswerve]

Damn, Just noticed today I have that exact same problem in the exact same spot on my D&D setup. I need to look into that clamp issue. JSwerve, take some pix of the clamps that hold that shield on or at least the back side of the shield so I know what I'm getting into.

It's a tuning issue according to Leonard at D & D. Too much fuel being dumped in the rear cylinder. I did 2 auto tune runs without the shield on then flashed the ECM with my new map. I put the shield back on this morning and rode 200 miles. Just walked out to the garage and looked and it looks brand new. Will keep you posted. I did put a stainless steel top clamp on where the bluing happened last time though.

[OBB]

great. My tuning was done before I bought the bike by a dealer using a SERT. Don't want to make an appointment now and lose any riding time with what little we actually have. How do those shields come off? Another thing, I just noticed this yesterday. Bike now has 13k on it of which I've put 12k of that on it in the last year since I bought it. Might take a while for your new one to start turning if it happens again.