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[rottenroger]

I just order some Lyndall rotors and gold pads for my 08 SERK. Hopefully this will correct the issue with redundant warped rotors. Looking for feed back from some of you that have made the switch to these rotors and pads. What have you experienced with this new hardware ? Any issues with rotors warping ? Are you satisfied with the stopping power ? Any complaints ?  Thanks

[CVODON]

It will help you stop better, but the only help on the rotor warp problem is to change to full floaters.

[grc]

I remember a lot of issues with out-of-flat mounting surfaces (defective wheels) for the rotors on the '07 or '08 SERK's .  Make sure you have that checked before you assume that all your rotor warpage problems were strictly due to the cheap crap rotors.  If you mount the best rotor on the planet to an out-of-flat surface, there will be a tendency for the rotor to become warped.

Jerry

[brassspike]

Had that same problem with my 08 RK. It was the wheel surface that was not machined correctly.

[Pete7539]

With my 08 ultra it was the rotors. I changed out to Lyndall rotors and pads. Love em. Look and perform better, less dust. You'll be very happy with them. Make sure to get chrome bolts to mount them too.

[rottenroger]

For the wheel machining issue, can you explain what you found ? Is it an issue with the mounting surface where the rotor attaches to the wheel ? What should be the expected tolerance ? What is the best way to measure the wheel for this issue ? Any suggestions for trouble shooting this before I put 1K worth of new hardware on would be greatly appreciated. When you found the issue how did you correct it?   Thanks guys

[Pete7539]

For the wheel machining issue, can you explain what you found ? Is it an issue with the mounting surface where the rotor attaches to the wheel ? What should be the expected tolerance ? What is the best way to measure the wheel for this issue ? Any suggestions for trouble shooting this before I put 1K worth of new hardware on would be greatly appreciated. When you found the issue how did you correct it?   Thanks guys

Jerry is the man with these answers I'm sure. On another note, if you do get them, order directly through lyndall and tell them you're a forum member. They should give you a good discount. I know it saved me close to a couple hundred.

[brassspike]

Mine was a 105th just like yours. I had a time of getting the dealer to replace the front brakes in the first place. The mechanic took the bike out for a test ride and admitted that the brakes STILL weren't just right. They told me later that the wheel was not machined correctly and that another one was ordered. After all that I never had a problem with the front brakes again. I believe that there was an issue with the front wheels on this model SERK. Mine was an early '08, likely made in '07. I would have that wheel checked before throwing a bunch of money at it. .02

[bear tracks]

   No problem with my stock floating rotors on SEEG.  But changed to Lyndall Gold Plus pads as soon as I bought bike in 2011.  Significant upgrade in stopping power.  I wouldn't change to any other pad.   

[tweeter13]

The way I would check it would be to make sure the wheel bearings are all in good condition first.  Then with a dial indicator mounted to securely to we're the brake caliper mounts I would measure the smooth flat place where the rotor sites once its bolted to the wheel. I would measure each flat around each bolt location.  And move the wheel and see if the indicator moves.  I would do this for each bolt hole.  Write down each measurement for each location.  I am not sure what the spec would be on it.  But I bet there is one in the shop manual.  There may be other ways of measuring this as well.  You may need to remove the wheel anyhow to measure other ways.  This should be really close to being flat.  If not when you torque it down you are warping the rotor as soon as you tighten it up.

If I were to guess I would say no more than .002 between all locations.  But this is just a guess.  It could be a lot more
This the difference I have on a Yamaha wheel I have in the garage right now.  It was fine when it came off the bike.  But who know its a jap bike.   If your running a floating rotor I would think your tolerances could be greater. 

 If you have abs brakes you want your brakes to be working properly.  For the abs to function correctly.  Pulsating brakes are annoying. 

Also make sure your calipers are free on their slides and not getting the rotors hot causing them to get hot warping the rotors as well.  But from other post it must have been a problem with wheels being machined where the rotors mount. 

But someone may have another way that's easier to measure that's done it on more than I have on a motorcycle. 

Remember double check them wheel bearings. 

I wish I has the vocabulary as a few other members on here to explain in more detail.  If its bolted up unlevel then gets hot from heat build up from stopping this will just make it worse and just ruin all the new rotors you just bought. 

Hope this helps a little bit anyhow
Todd.