
I'll try to post more pictures when I get the rest of the bike together. These speakers sound awesome just from the HK radio. I don't have the amps hooked up yet, so I can only imagine how good it will be.
This is what I posted on HD Forums:
For those who are considering this project, here is what I did:
Gut the pods and remove the leather covers. (Remember which sides the switches
go on and the position of the top bracket holding the switches)
Mark the tour pack for drilling - I used the template as a rough guide and
marked the drill holes with a Sharpie. Then I took the pods, positioned them
where I thought they should be and marked the holes again. I was pretty close
with the template, so I was confident everything would come out correctly. I
double checked to make sure there was clearance to open the saddlebags and there
was plenty.
I drilled the holes and loosely installed the pods to see what needed to be cut
away from the pods to clear the tour pack lid. Using a razor, I scribed the
approximate cut lines.
Cutting the pods wasn't all that difficult with a Dremel tool, you just have to
clean up the frayed edges as you go. After a few tries, I finally got enough cut
away to clear the lid.
Here's: where my experience may help. When I attempted to staple the covers back
on the pods, the plastic broke near the area I cut. (That's the first part
you're going to staple to pull material over the hole you cut. I found that I
had enough to do it.) Also, using a pneumatic staple gun wasn't a good idea.
It's better to use an underpowered manual one and push in the staples as needed.
Here I had to take the screws out of the pods to separate the halves. I figured
JB Weld fixes anything, so it should work, right?
Nope. I used plenty, but the pods broke as soon as I tried stapling the covers.
I don't think the type of plastic used for the pods is compatible with JB Weld.
Plan B involved supporting the weakened area. I needed something that was
strong, but would still let a staple pass through. For $2 I got a cheap cutting
board and drew out the damaged area and measured for the maximum overlap into
the non damaged area. After a few cuts and trial fittings, I had a pretty good
fit.
The pods and the cutting board didn't exactly mate perfectly. There was a small
bow in one or both of the pieces. I sanded the cutting board to remove the rough
edges from cutting and get it as flat as possible. Using super glue, I glued the
broken pieces of the pods and once dry, glued the pieces of the cutting board to
the pod.
There were still some small gaps near the edges, so I used some Gorilla glue to
fill those in.
Stapling the cover back on wasn't too bad and it seemed like the support fixed
the problem. When stapling to the speaker hole, staple only near the supported
parts. I broke a small piece off learning that lesson. No biggie, it wasn't
large enough to make a difference.
Then, put the switches in, wrap the speakers in polyfill (a step which I forgot)
and install. Don't forget the headset cable holder on the bottom of the left
speaker pod, or you'll have to take the speaker out again, like I did.