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Author Topic: Recommended upgrade to take 110 to next level (did cam already, want more)  (Read 4928 times)

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RatMonkey

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Howdy.  I have a 2012 CVO Road glide Custom.  I added Fueling Reaper Cams 574 (i think that is the #).

I am basically happy, however 1st gear off the line feels stock/sluggish, and then going thru 2nd and into 3rd is great!
I did have a dyno, and the tuner, and pipes (VH Power Duals, with RC Exhaust)

I just want more power.  What would be the next step that would not break the bank? (Maybe $2k max, including labor)
My #'s were 105 HP, and 115 TQ.
Can I get a great increase or do I need togo BIG ($$) to really get a worthy change?

Just looking for advice.  Thanks.  


***ALSO:
Would like to know what would STOP the knocking/congo-drum sound I have in my intake.  Other 2012 110 roady's have it, I have heard it.  It is only at idle, and really is a bummer.  It has to do with the air intake and...blah blah .. No one can really clarify the issue-- and therefore--the solution.  Harley tried to fix it....(new throttle body).. It did not, so then they said "Ok, it's normal"

Ugh.  A CVO at idle, should not sound like this.  It is ridiculous for the CVO of all bikes to not have an iconic Harley idle note.   I doubt this is "normal,"  but it may be something they refuse to fix.  Adding cams/pipes did not help, and now of course the MOCO has the "edge" to deny coverage.  

Thanks
« Last Edit: June 04, 2013, 06:46:53 PM by RatMonkey »
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grc

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Change the final drive gear ratio.  Or look at the Baker 7 speed trans.  Either can help with that 1st gear issue you mentioned.  As for going bigger, you will need a bigger budget to do it right. 

Jerry
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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If in fact that 45* intake closing cam was installed with the OEM compression, one of the quickest, most cost effective power gains would be to re-surface the cylinder heads to get that ccp up where it could/should be to help optimise the cams potential.
Scott
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RatMonkey

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Thank you for this advice so far.  I will look into both.  I appreciate the help, I am concerned that the mechanic will always want to do more, but I do not want to waste money or time on small incremental moves.

If I were to commit and go big, is an S&S 124 the way to go?  Or should I just build up my existing 110?

What would be a reasonable price to get the motor to a noticeable increase, but still be a reliable and capable cruiser?

Thank you 
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prodrag1320

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good #`s out of a 110 are not very hard to get.headwork,compression & cams (the reaper .574`s wouldnt have been my choice)

SDCVO

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Been on this project for quite a while now. A 124 all done will be well over 10G before you are done...
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Alan

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I just spent a bunch on my 110 and didn't get much.  I really think I should have gone with a 120 or 124.  I could have easily bought one for what I have spent on the 110.

Cowboy
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RatMonkey

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good #`s out of a 110 are not very hard to get.headwork,compression & cams (the reaper .574`s wouldnt have been my choice)

What are my cams weak on?  What would another do for me?  If I were to put the ones you prefer, what would I immediately notice different?

Thanks.  I am new to this so I just went with what the mechanic recommended. 
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Thank you for this advice so far.  I will look into both.  I appreciate the help, I am concerned that the mechanic will always want to do more, but I do not want to waste money or time on small incremental moves.

If I were to commit and go big, is an S&S 124 the way to go?  Or should I just build up my existing 110?

What would be a reasonable price to get the motor to a noticeable increase, but still be a reliable and capable cruiser?

Thank you 

Your 1.3 points of compression shy of the mark to support that cam correctly.
That'll make a LARGE difference just setting that, alone.
Scott
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prodrag1320

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scotts right more compression would wake up your cam choice,we like the S&S .585 cams in milder 110 builds set @ 10.5-1 or S&S .625 in more aggressive builds set @ 11.0-0,but even with the 574`s,you should be at least @ 10.25-1

RatMonkey

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Ok, so..  I am now on a mission to increase my compression.  Can you explain the basic concept of what that entails, and what would be the best bullet-proof way to do it?

Thank you. 
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JKM

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Scott and others who know that they are talking about will chime, but you should resurface your heads, lowering them a bit, which increases the compresssion ratio.  While the heads are off have them ported/polish to increase effiency of flow dynamics.  Most who rework these heads will also install few valve guides as the OEMs are of poor quality.

When you did the cam did you install new lifters?  I would highly recommend new lifters as the OEM are prone to failure.  S&S make great replacement lifters


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Midnight Rider

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What do you mean by the "iconic" Harley idle note?  If you mean the very low idle RPM that gives the classic "potato/potato" sound, it ain't going to happen with a fuel injected engine.

There are more knowledgeable people in this discussion than me, but perhaps the 574 cams don't allow the torque to come in until you're at 3K RPM or more.  

Here is a Dyno graph from Fueling's website for a setup similar to yours, EXCEPT, note the use of a .030 head gasket.  Also note the fact that you don't have 100 ft/lbs of TQ until over 3K RPM.  Part of that reason is the exhaust choice in combination with the cam.

Your "Power Band" (with regards to TQ) has shifted pretty dramatically to the right from the stock 255 cams, which are basically at their best from 2200-4000 RPM...right where a touring bike needs to be, IMO.  It all depends on your riding style, of course.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 01:27:15 PM by Midnight Rider »
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prodrag1320

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Ok, so..  I am now on a mission to increase my compression.  Can you explain the basic concept of what that entails, and what would be the best bullet-proof way to do it?

Thank you.  

simply cc the heads & mill to the desired cc`s,the earlier post about the guides is right on too,when ever we`re working a set of 110 heads,we replace the guides as the stockers have a nasty way of coming loose

B.A.

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Obviously, the sky is the limit.  If you want a quick, realtively inexpensive "fix" GRC's first response to this thread is right on.  IMO you'd want to do it no matter what else you do.  Stock is hugely out of whack because of the EPA.

I did the 30 tooth tran sprocket conversion.  It makes the bike exponentially more rideable!!  It's high geared slug.  Cannot believe the difference between my '02 S.E.R.G. and the '11 I've changed.  The old bike was much more rideable.

Do a search on 30 tooth here.  Lot's of reading available.
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