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[dlaws01]

Sounds like you need a six foot "cheater bar" and a 300 lb. buddy. 

[timo482]

a huge bar used without a proper locking bar between the comp sprocket and the clutch sprocket could wreck the other end of the crank.

again - you really need the manual [or a copy of the right page] it has picture of how to lock it so you can get the nut off without damaging anything

to

[prodrag1320]

your a deisel mechanic and didnt think of a impact?? 

[Twolanerider]

your a deisel mechanic and didnt think of a impact??  

I didn't say it.....  



thought it, but didn't say it

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

I'd say the sprocket bolt lost it's clamp load and was rocking back and forth with each up ramp and down ramp of the cam. The bolt and washer was replaced by Harley in the earlier years of the twin cam.
New wheels for sure.....
Doc

I believe Doc nailed it.
Scott

[Jessee]

I did think of using my impact but I didn't know if it would damage anything with the hammering action. I do have a manual and I do have the compensator sprocket locked but even with all that it still wouldn't come loose but I bet ya when that 700 ft lb impact gets ahold of it that it will move, well I hope so because I don't want to get out my big impact. To me working on something so small like this harley just makes me kinda worrysome. I believe the bolt on the crank gear did loose it's clamping pressure on the bolt, I can't explain any other reason why crank got rounded in both directions.

Timo482...you said hoban can fix the crank, who are they and how can I contact them? You also mentioned going gear drive, I have been thinking of that very thing or the new style screaming eagle cam plate that has the hydraulic tensioners and new hi pressure oil pump, is the gear drive louder than chain? I've had some people tell me that it is, but I haven't heard one for myself to judge.

No I haven't split cases before but I am going to tear engine completely apart myself because I really don't have much confidence in my local dealership mechanics...all fresh hires and very very young. Not to mention I was talking to the service manager about this bike and he just started saying for me to go ahead and order this part and that part...and I said I haven't even got those out to check to see if they needed replacing.

I have alot of tools at house and what I don't have here, I have at work, plus we have two garage trucks that is fully loaded as well. But maybe not the correct tools for this job and in that case I guess I will have to go buy the proper tools. Then I'll have them for the next time I need them.

Is there a place that sells a kit that has all new engine bolts? That would save time instead of ordering individual bolts. I know that I could go back with HD Screaming Eagle products...but is there a better brand? Thoughts...I will keep you posted as how the project unveils and what kind of parts I discover inside the engine as tear down continues. Well least I still have my little sportster in the other garage bay and I did take it out for a ride sunday...just not the same as my CVO Thank you all for all your imputs, I really appreciate it alot! Have a GR-8 Day!

[cherryseeg2]

Jessee you can find Hoban brothers here www.darkhorsecrankworks.com.
I put gear drives in my cherry when i changed cams and its the best thing i ever did.  No more worry about tensioners going bad.  The only time you can hear it is at a cold start and you have to be listening for it then.  If they are set up correctly it's by far the best way to go. 

There's nothing wrong with screamin eagle parts going back in, but there are better parts in the aftermarket.  If it were me and the crank had to be reworked I'd probably go for a 113 or 117 build focused on big torque for a great touring bike.  Send the heads to Don(deweys heads) and with a dark horse bottom end it would be bullet proof for many miles.

[Twolanerider]

I have alot of tools at house and what I don't have here, I have at work, plus we have two garage trucks that is fully loaded as well. But maybe not the correct tools for this job and in that case I guess I will have to go buy the proper tools. Then I'll have them for the next time I need them.

There are some tools specific to these engines you'll need.  Good source is a company/guy called George's Garage.  Look over his selection in the "engine section" and it'll do a good job of informing what you'll need.

http://www.georges-garage.com/

[Jessee]

Guys I do really Thank You for the links and all the info to assist me on my quest to get the cherry back on the road. I am not much into the fast riding, mainly I ride it back and forth to work on little two lane roads, sometimes I do hit the interstate but at 70 the cherry is turning 3000 while I cruise. Normally when I have it turning 3000 it is also going past to 4000 because I'm on it dog gone it, but cruising while turning 3000 is not really for me. When me and the wife go riding we usually go over the mountains here Hwy 421 and country roads but Hwy 421 sees alot of motorcycle riding here in NE Tennessee. I love the get up and go of these bikes and that's what I want to focus on for now (torque and power). But I guess we all like that otherwise we would be riding mopeds...ha ha

[cherryseeg2]

Jessee, just seen that you are in north east TN also.  I'm in greeneville just 30 south west of Johnson City.  To answer you question from your other thread when you do gear it also replaces the inner chain and tensioners.  It doesn't matter where you order from as all gear drive sets are from S&S they hold the patent for them.  I ordered mine from easten performance as they had the best price.

[Jessee]

I just got on Eastern Performace website, looks how I will be going, is anyone using the S & S gear set that is using the S & S easy start cams that relieves initial cranking compression and after it starts it returns to full compression?  I briefly used impact on compensation nut when I got in from work today and it didn't budge, I didn't hammer long on it though. The comp nut head is only about 3/8" in width and I noticed when I briefly used my impact that it was actually trying to twist the first 1/4" of the nut head, so I stopped. I'm going to cut off the tip of a 1 1/2" 6 point impact socket to allow socket more area to grab nut. My impact sockets are beveled on the inside at the front of the socket which is not allowing me to get a full surface area contact of the comp nut head. Should I apply some heat, my service manual states heat could be applied but to make sure not to turn comp nut blue. I have read where others had posted that they removed their comp nuts with no problems...is mine the only one that has been this tight? Could it be related from where my crankshaft gear came loose on the other side of the engine and caused end to get rounded and/or twisted...I can't see how but working on something so small like this bike is new to me. Sorta like working on our Hybrid Internationals along with its fiberoptic cables at work...learning as problems arise.   

[hogasm]

Since the crank has to be removed from the case to repair, it doesn't matter if too much heat ruins the oil seal

I had the same situation on a 4.25 crank. Ended up cutting a groove into the nut and splitting it.

Good luck

[prodrag1320]

I just got on Eastern Performace website, looks how I will be going, is anyone using the S & S gear set that is using the S & S easy start cams that relieves initial cranking compression and after it starts it returns to full compression?  I briefly used impact on compensation nut when I got in from work today and it didn't budge, I didn't hammer long on it though. The comp nut head is only about 3/8" in width and I noticed when I briefly used my impact that it was actually trying to twist the first 1/4" of the nut head, so I stopped. I'm going to cut off the tip of a 1 1/2" 6 point impact socket to allow socket more area to grab nut. My impact sockets are beveled on the inside at the front of the socket which is not allowing me to get a full surface area contact of the comp nut head. Should I apply some heat, my service manual states heat could be applied but to make sure not to turn comp nut blue. I have read where others had posted that they removed their comp nuts with no problems...is mine the only one that has been this tight? Could it be related from where my crankshaft gear came loose on the other side of the engine and caused end to get rounded and/or twisted...I can't see how but working on something so small like this bike is new to me. Sorta like working on our Hybrid Internationals along with its fiberoptic cables at work...learning as problems arise.   

we use alot of the S&S EZ start cams,they work great.just keep blasting on the nut with the impact,it`ll come off

[dlaws01]

Put some "Mouse Milk" Penetrating Oil on it.  Makes Liquid Wrench look like water.  Let it set for a couple of hours the put you impact back on it.

[prodrag1320]

youde never be able to get penitrating lube on the threads of a compensator