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[Jessee]

I have a question...has anyone ever had the crankshaft gear that is in the cam gear cover twist on the end of the crankshaft? My cam tensioner broke as well as the chain follower, I have started tearing apart the engine and I am finding some hi performance parts...could the previous owner put too much power in engine and that may be the reason the crank twisted? If so...should I go with a gear set instead of chain for cam/crank? Also, what do you think about milling a key way slot or two on the crank and crank gear and installing keys in addition to the flat milled section on the crank and crank gear? This the the machinist in my past coming to surface...Thoughts on the subject would be very appreciated? Thanks!

[FlaHeatWave]

'Have the same bike as you, has been bulletproof (I updated the tensioners as a preventive measure~no failure~ around 40k) to 50k miles.

You are not giving enough info (miles, motor mods, tensioner update, etc...) about your bike for anyone to give any educated input.

As far as the keyway goes, I've never heard of anybody doing it.

[hdbrad03]

Pictures would be nice.


 


    brad

[Twolanerider]

Pictures would be nice.


 


    brad

Not sure how much I'd be comfortable with just pics here Brad.  Just read it and the description of anything "twisting" on the end of the crank was enough to make private parts hide up behind my belly button.  I'd not trust anything until I'd seen a dial indicator do its work.  Also have to wonder how much junk has moved on inside the oiling system.

[prodrag1320]

not really sure if im following you,the sprocket that goes on the end of the pinion shaft twisted the end of the pinion shaft?or the gear rounded off ?? pics are defenatly needed

[Jessee]

Sorry bout that...I am not sure as to extent of mods on bike...not the first owner. But as I tear into the engine I am finding some performance parts. Jim's 1820 hydro shock II lifters, pushrods look like off Jim's website...that are adjustable. Cams are SE 251...but still stock cam chain tentioners, plate and chain guide. I took parts to lead tech at Harley...he said cams, lifters and pushrods looked brand new. He said push rods was not harley, he thinks Jim's also. Will attach some pictures.

[Jessee]

Cams pictures

[Jessee]

Lifters

[Twolanerider]

Sorry to see this mate.  But you're not done tearing things apart yet.  Ever split cases before?  And what other tools do you have in hand or available?

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

That is fu(ked.
Going to need that sent off to Hobans.
Scott

[prodrag1320]

going to need a new set of wheels,pinion side anyway.no matter how big,or radical the motor was built (251 cams arnt big cams,so i doubt the rest of the motor was built that aggresive)theres no reason for that to happen unless it was built wrong.was the bolt holding the sprocket on loose?thats about the only thing i could see to cause that

[Doc 1]

I'd say the sprocket bolt lost it's clamp load and was rocking back and forth with each up ramp and down ramp of the cam. The bolt and washer was replaced by Harley in the earlier years of the twin cam.
New wheels for sure.....
Doc

[Jessee]

In process of removing engine to dismantle and check rest of parts. I am a diesel mechanic and working on bike is little different. Pulled oil pan yesterday... had to remove sway are and raise back of trans for clearance of cross member. My next problem is removing nut off compensator, tried 1/2 in breaker bar with 3 ft pipe and heated nut and with wife holding back of bike down...no luck. Turning ccw to remove nut...right handed threads by the book. Never budged at all. So I thought...I'll show you and pulled out 3/4 in tools...same process...same results. Anyone else experienced one this difficult to remove...ideas? I am thinking of days of I used explosives in the Army...better not. Wife may get upset

[timo482]

you REALLY !!!!!! need a service manual before you break something even more expensive than your already trashed crankshaft.

hoban can fix the crank - going to cost some bux. what year is it? if it has timken main bearings on the power side you need the special tool to pull the bearings out.

if you are a diesel mech you can do this - but its 1903 technology so you NEED the manual

251 is not a very big cam, no big deal - but the bolt got loose, whoever put it together did NOT have the manual and installed that bolt wrong.

you probably want to go gear drive or else get the harley cam chain upgrade and install that using your current cams - after you get the crank rebuilt.

note many bolts on the engine are one use only bolts - dont reuse those - also most engine bolts come with factory paste locktight - if they are ok to reuse make sure you use the right locktight or - bad things happen.

to

[Twolanerider]

In process of removing engine to dismantle and check rest of parts. I am a diesel mechanic and working on bike is little different. Pulled oil pan yesterday... had to remove sway are and raise back of trans for clearance of cross member. My next problem is removing nut off compensator, tried 1/2 in breaker bar with 3 ft pipe and heated nut and with wife holding back of bike down...no luck. Turning ccw to remove nut...right handed threads by the book. Never budged at all. So I thought...I'll show you and pulled out 3/4 in tools...same process...same results. Anyone else experienced one this difficult to remove...ideas? I am thinking of days of I used explosives in the Army...better not. Wife may get upset

Never had a compensator nut that wouldn't come loose without much trouble with an impact wrench.  The comp nut is normal right hand thread.  It's at the clutch you find the LH hardware. 

There are simple and inexpensive locking bars available to hold things solid while tightening when you reassemble.  Goes between comp and ring gear teeth.  But no clue why you're having so much trouble getting the comp nut off.  Did you try an impact?  It's ok to use the impact for disassembly.