Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[SEagle110]

I am having a issue with Hydraulic clutch creep on my 2007 SE Ultra. Started a few weeks ago. I bled the line NUMEROUS times 1st, still had issues. Then flushed old fluids out and replaced with new DOT 4. I flushed and bled the line using vacumm method so a to completely elimate air. Still had issues so rebled. Issue remains wherein immediately after bleeding I would have proper clutch then after a few shifts clutch would start to go away creating hard shifts and creep at stop signs. So thought it may be the master cylinder and also rebuilt it. But.....still have problems. Bled at banjo also as understand some air gets trapped at banjo bolt. Seems when in neutral if I pull clutch I can hear clutches making a noise similar to what you would hear on a open primary type clutch. Pulled the primary cover off, inslected everything......everything seems fine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks

[SEagle110]

I am having a issue with Hydraulic clutch creep on my 2007 SE Ultra. Started a few weeks ago. I bled the line NUMEROUS times 1st, still had issues. Then flushed old fluids out and replaced with new DOT 4. I flushed and bled the line using vacumm method so a to cmpletely elimate air. Still had issues so re-bled. Issue remains wherein immediately after bleeding I would have proper clutch then after a few shifts clutch would start to go away creating hard shifts and creep at stop signs. So thought it may be the master cylinder and also rebuilt it. But.....still have problems. Bled at banjo also as understand some air gets trapped at banjo bolt. Seems when in neutral if I pull clutch I can hear clutches making a noise similar to what you would hear on a open primary type clutch. Pulled the primary cover off, inslected everything......everything seems fine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks

[sadunbar]

I am having a issue with Hydraulic clutch creep on my 2007 SE Ultra. Started a few weeks ago. I bled the line NUMEROUS times 1st, still had issues. Then flushed old fluids out and replaced with new DOT 4. I flushed and bled the line using vacumm method so a to cmpletely elimate air. Still had issues so re-bled. Issue remains wherein immediately after bleeding I would have proper clutch then after a few shifts clutch would start to go away creating hard shifts and creep at stop signs. So thought it may be the master cylinder and also rebuilt it. But.....still have problems. Bled at banjo also as understand some air gets trapped at banjo bolt. Seems when in neutral if I pull clutch I can hear clutches making a noise similar to what you would hear on a open primary type clutch. Pulled the primary cover off, inslected everything......everything seems fine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks

Your clutch should travel a minimum of .060 when you squeeze the clutch lever.  You can measure the travel with a dial indicator.  If you get the proper movement, then your issue is not hydraulic.  If you don't have the proper movement, given the work you're already done, then the problem could likely be the slave cylinder (part of the tranny side cover).  The MOCO sells a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder (36822-04).

If you have proper clutch release movement, try a little less primary lubricant.  If you're running the amount of primary fluid specified in the service manual, try running 5 oz. or so less.

If have the proper travel, and have tried running slightly less lubricant and you still have creep, then you likely have clutch plates/spacers that are no longer flat.  Pull the clutch plates out and check them for flatness.  If they are not flat, the clutch will not fully release when you squeeze the lever.  The solution is to replace clutch plates.

[SERK3]

Had same issues on my 07 SE Road King, Flushed out the old, Replaced with new and everything worked fine. 

[SERK3]

Might want to check and see if you have to much fluid in primary or it could be the slave cylinder, Thats what i thought mine was in the beginning, Never entered my mind that the fluid would be the problem, Thank goodness thats all it was.

[SEagle110]

Thanks Guys for thr responses. I am thinking it could be the plates as when I pull the clutch in neutral, and let it out in neutral I can really hear a difference inside the clutch basket between full out and in. (noise wise)  I will check the thickness, wear and see maybe if some are warped and repost with results. I am thinking I may also pull the slave (actuator) and rebuild it while I am at it.  Fluid levels are all fine.

[kreed2007]

Hello SSagle110, I have the same bike even the colors. I have the same scenario going with my clutch. I have rebuilt the master cylinder and bled the s...t out of it and it still acts just like you have described. DID YOU FIGURE YOURS OUT?

[Para Bellum]

kreed,

This is an old thread, and SEagle110 hasn't visited the forum since Aug 2013, so you might not get an answer.  Have you tried the troubleshooting tips sadunbar listed in reply #2?

[kreed2007]

Thanks for your reply, It turns out I emailed SEagle110 and he helped me out.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Thanks for your reply, It turns out I emailed SEagle110 and he helped me out.

If you don't mind sharing, what was his solution to his clutch drag?

[kreed2007]

SEagle110 replied that he rebuilt the transmission. I assume he was talking about replacing all of the bearings.
He said the bearings were allowing the clutch assembly to walk in and out. I am going to tear into mine and
investigate.

[Para Bellum]

Thanks for your reply, It turns out I emailed SEagle110 and he helped me out.

That's great!  Good for you and good for him.

[Dan_Lockwood]

SEagle110 replied that he rebuilt the transmission. I assume he was talking about replacing all of the bearings.
He said the bearings were allowing the clutch assembly to walk in and out. I am going to tear into mine and
investigate.

Thanks and good luck.