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[mark]

Don't burn oil, rather throw it out the air cleaner all over my right saddle bag if running hard.  Not the Syn 3's fault. 

X2.  If I ride my bike hard, like in the mountains where you are constantly up shifting, down shifting, and riding aggressively, I've blown oil from the air filter.  As others have suggested, this is probably your culprit.

[screaminCVO]

Well I didn't notice anything coming from the AC. But.......I was passing my buddies going uphill @100 mph. That really pissed them off!!

[SDCVO]

I'm closely watching my bike's oil consumption.
After having the 1,000 mile service on my 2013 CVO S/E Ultra, I installed a dipstick which has the oil level/oil temperature.
I checked it regularly and I was waiting to take the bike in for the 5,000 mile service but never noticed the oil level reading low.
I wanted to take a trip but I couldn't get my bike in for service so I decide to just do the service myself.
On the Sunday before I was going to do the work I did a short run to a local watering hole and as I shifting gears at 2200 RPM I heard a lifter clap a few times.
The next day I went to the dealer and got the fluids, filter, O-rings, etc. for an oil change.
On Tuesday morning, before I did anything, I pressed the button on the dipstick and it only displayed "Two Bars", or in other words, TWO Quarts LOW!
Sure enough, I drained the engine oil and drained the filter and poured it into a gallon jug and it was only a little over half full!!!
That was, give or take almost two quarts of oil in about 3800 miles.
As I was billed for 6 quarts of SYN 3, I'm thinking that when the dealer did the 1,000 mile service, the tech didn't put 4 quarts of oil in the engine, instead splitting the 6th quart between the engine and the chain case.

I have the same dipstick. Each bar does not represent a quart low. Mine was down to 1 bar which was going on and off depending on the raod angle when I parked and I was only a half a quart low
 

[DCFIREMANN]

You really don't want the oil level to be over the FULL mark, and definitely not with the engine cold.  Even on the late models this will lead to carryover into the air cleaner.

The engine oil capacity is 4.0 quarts including the filter, but you can't assume you can just dump in four quarts.  You never actually get all the old oil out, and the best way to fill during an oil change is to add only 3 quarts, run the engine at idle for a minute to fill the filter and distribute the oil, then use the dipstick to determine how much more oil to add.  It's better to be a little below the FULL mark, never above.
Jerry

EXACTALY!!!!!!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[yellowcorvette]

Next time it is low and you change fluids check and see how much fluid comes out of the primary. Could have a seal letting it leak from crankcase to primary.

[+RO@D*R@GE+]

got rid of Syn3 after 1000 miles.....not really a full synthetic ....and breaks down pretty quick. I use Mobil

[Bald Eagle]

I switched from syn 3 to Amsoil syn 20-50 in the crankcase.  Can I use it in the primary and the trans also?   

[spydglide]

got rid of Syn3 after 1000 miles.....not really a full synthetic ....and breaks down pretty quick. I use Mobil

I thought the new Syn3 was fully synthetic now.  spyder

[grc]

I switched from syn 3 to Amsoil syn 20-50 in the crankcase.  Can I use it in the primary and the trans also?   

If you use the Amsoil designed for V-Twins then they say you can use it in all three holes, just like SYN3.  Same goes for Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, btw.  However, IMHO you are better off using real gear oil in the trans, not motor oil.  The motor oils may meet the minimum requirements, but that doesn't mean they are as good as a top rated 75w90 gear oil.

Jerry

[North Georgia Hawg]

If you use the Amsoil designed for V-Twins then they say you can use it in all three holes, just like SYN3.  Same goes for Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, btw.  However, IMHO you are better off using real gear oil in the trans, not motor oil.  The motor oils may meet the minimum requirements, but that doesn't mean they are as good as a top rated 75w90 gear oil.

Jerry

Totally agree you need a good gear oil in the tranny! I don't think motor oil can cushion the gears in there sufficiently. I currently am running Shockproof there, but I have used Mobil 1 75W-140 syn gear oil, too.

I think a 20W-50 motor oil is too thick for the primary. All the oil in there does is cool the clutch and keep the primary chain from rusting. I run a mix of Formula+ and Mobil 1 syn ATF in there. I think thinner is better for cooling the clutch.

For the crankcase, I currently run Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50, but I have also run AMSOil 20W-50 in there.

I have found that THREE quarts in the crankcase after an oil change gets the level nearly perfect. I like to run it two marks down from full. It has never puked any oil.

I also use the Scavenger oil change system by Rogue Chopper. It enables a TOTAL change of oil by running another 1 1/2 quarts through to pump out all of the old dirty oil from the crankcase and oil cooler. Pretty cool little device, and have used it on friends' bikes, too. I like knowing that I don't have a quart of old cruddy oil still circulating in the system after an oil change.

Ken

[Bald Eagle]

Thanks guys  Good info!

[Yzernie]

At my 1,000 mile service on my 14 FLHTKSE I took off the Ventilator air filter.  The filter had oil pooled up in it and it ran off the backing plate and onto the cam cover and center case.  My Road Glide Ultra does the same thing with Syn3.  At the suggestion of a carer HD mechanic, I changed to Amsoil 60wt at 3.5 quarts.  On the Road Glide I made an almost 5,000 mile round trip to Sturgis and not one drop leaked out.  He told me the Syn3 is the thinnest 20/50 he has ever seen and that it blows out the vents at an alarming rate.  What he told me to do worked and I'll be using either the Amsoil 60wt or the Redline 20/60 from now on.