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[vinnieee]

Was looking at getting a Forest River XLR Hyper Lite 27' toy hauler w/ a 9 foot garage. I'm hoping the 9' garage will be enough by using a Lock N Load wheel chock, so is anyone using a 9' garage that can give me any advice?

[DaBigNuttedMan]

we got a 12" garage in a 34" toy box, I have a piece of aluminum channel for the tires to rest in to spread the load to the floor[don't want to point load the floor at the tires only]  and a problem I deal with also is our trailer sits real high because its a 5th wheel and the bed hight of my truck is 3/4 ton 4 wheel drive hight so what this adds up to is the ramp is too short and too steep, the bike would high center [bottom out underneath] the answer is to block the ramp up about a foot and then rig an extension, your wheel chock needs to bolt to a plate that's bolted to crossmembers underneath the trailer and your tie down points need to find crossmembers underneath too

[vinnieee]

This trailer is a tow behind with a dry weight of 6,300 lbs, so I'm using my 1/2 ton Chevy to pull it. Just was thinking that the garage at 9 feet might not fit my street glide.

[backroad Mike]

If you don't have to walk around the bike while it's in the garage, the 9' should be enough.  Just as long as your not blocking entry from a side door if equipped, or the main entry from the living quarters.

[porthole]

9' should be good as long as you don't have a tourpak. It will still fit with a tourpak, but you really get limited in mounting options. My garage is 10' and I would consider that the minimum for my purposes.

The length comes more into play if you are looking to bolt down chocks and be able to bolt into a cross member.

[vinnieee]

Okay, so no wheel chocks then in the 9 foot garage, but that stinks got it.

[Midnight Rider]

Okay, so no wheel chocks then in the 9 foot garage, but that stinks got it.

The new Ultra is 8.53 feet long, so that's cutting it mighty close.  Looking at the model you're talking about, you'd have to put the front tire all the way against the wall.  You could make it work, but a drive on chock would probably not be possible, though there are other ways to lock down the front wheel in place, like make a channel out of wood/metal to avoid side to side movement.  Where there's a will, there's a way.  But there's little margin for error there...

[porthole]

Okay, so no wheel chocks then in the 9 foot garage, but that stinks got it.

"Ride on -step off" wheel chocks makes loading so much easier.

This is what I do - I don't recommend it for anyone else but just an idea.

I no longer bolt my chocks down.

I started with BikePro chocks, the real ones, not the hf ripoff copies.
I have 3 plates bolted to the floor of my motorcycle trailer. They work well and I never bothered to change them out.

On my toy hauler (5th wheel) I started with extra BikePro plates bolted to the floor.

I bought a Condor chock and then used the included trailer mount kit and bolted that to the floor.

After a couple of uses I removed the floor plate and just use the Condor not bolted down. A block of wood or something similar at the front to just keep it from sliding forward is all that is needed if strapped down properly.

I have since bought a second Condor for the house garage and to use if needed in the toy hauler.

Whatever you do, if you have a bike with a removable tourpak, make sure the tourpak is on when setting the chocks and make sure you have clearance on the ramp.

[vinnieee]

I think I will do that with a condor not bolted down and put a piece of wood in front. I have a Street Glide and would never put a tour pack on it (that's just me), so that's not a problem either. So Condor it is.

[CVODON]

6300# empty with a 900# motorcycle and the extras you need for another 1000# and you are way past a 1/2 ton any truck. That is just scary, remember a car will pull it down the road with no wind or problems. Your tow vehicle needs to be equipped for when there are problems, like panic stop (a board in front of the chock??). From someone who has pulled recreational and race trailers for over 40 years you better rethink that 8000# plus load behind a regular pick-up.

[vinnieee]

I would like to use a wheel chock that is bolted to the floor with the Lock N Load straps out back. Can this be done in a toy hauler?

[porthole]

(a board in front of the chock??)

The 2x? is just a spacer between the chock and the front wall. Works fine, Condor's have a 2x2 piece of angle aluminun across the front.. The straps keep the bike in place. I use 5 straps, all M&M's no hf crap. 2 on the front angled down, out and forward. 2 on the bag guards down and out and 1 around the rear tire pulling straight back. The bike has been pulled 15K+ in the toy hauler this way which has included a couple of panic stops with no issues.

I use to secure the bike well enough in the motorcycle trailer (not the toy hauler) that even if it flipped the bike would stay secure. But, why bother. If either my low pro bike trailer or my high profile 5th wheel toy hauler flipped neither of the trailer would survive well enough that the bike would be unscathed had it remained perfectly tied down.

[vinnieee]

Well looking at a 2500 truck tonight, so I can tow the new camper. The expenses are going to be big this month - new truck, camper and all the gear that will go with it. Still have to find a 4 point sway bar control. Fun fun fun

[CVO Aqua-Glider]

Well looking at a 2500 truck tonight, so I can tow the new camper. The expenses are going to be big this month - new truck, camper and all the gear that will go with it. Still have to find a 4 point sway bar control. Fun fun fun

Did you ever get your Toy Hauler and truck? 

[vinnieee]

No, ended up keeping my 1500 LTZ Chevy and I picked up a Rance 7x14 trailer that I customize. Got it home and added the Biker Bar and I love that option since there is no need for strapping down the bike when hauling