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[Dietea]

2011 CVO 110" Touring, Jackpot 2/1/2 exhaust, Jackpot mufflers, Dynojet Power Vision and TW-222 cams

[HD Street Performance]

Step up to the Power Vision, the features will leave the Delphi intact and not neuter the features.
Consider a Screaming Eagle 254E cam
Buy TUV legal mufflers or Supertrap slipons then tailor the disc count to the sound level and torque curve you desire.

[Steve Cole]

If you tour around Europe and most of your riding is on back roads and the interstate you will find that 90% of that time is spent in the 2200 - 3200 RPM range. Looking at the charts that have been posted you will see you have little to no gains over stock power in that RPM range. So before you buy too many parts you may want to look again at the area you really run your engine on your next ride. Plenty of parts to buy but not so many that are going to get you what your looking for. If the dyno charts do not show anything gained until above 3000 RPM you got to ask yourself if that's really what your looking for.

Since your looking to keep the stock head pipe and some mufflers that keep it more to the quite side do not get too carried away with the cam and heads. As long as the plug is still in the exhaust your not going to get the big numbers so work with ALL the parts to fit the range your looking for.

IMHO your looking for a low RPM cam and maybe a nice LOW RPM port job on the heads. While it's not going to make the big numbers on the dyno sheet it will be much nicer to ride and out perform many high HP packages in the RPM range you really ride in.

[FlaHeatWave]

The smaller Fullsac baffels are known for making good power and are pretty quiet (I don't know how quiet your pipes need to be over there, would recommend you calling Fullsac and ask them.

Is it an option for you to change the head pipes to an aftermarket pipe that uses the stock heat shields?

I really like the characteristics of the 259 cams, there are some times that I prefer the bike to be a little "softer" on the bottom ( low speed, tight, off camber, uphill switchbacks 2-up & loaded) as it is easier to control for me.
Also like the way the 259s come on and pull to the limiter.

There are other really good cams out there, you just have to be honest with yourself and decide what you want (how you really ride the bike)

'Highly recommend the S&S lifters!! One HD lifter (front intake) just grenaded on the '09 SERG and took out the whole motor No more HD (jims) lifters for me.

'Just spoke w/ Jamie at FuelMoto this week and asked about larger Throttle Body / Injectors (which he sells) on the new motor, 110 / 259s / 10.5-1 and he promptly told me to save my $$$. I just sent FM the TB to be polished.

I decided to go with the Power Commander V / AutoTune (currently have the SEPST) on the rebuild;

2 good riding friends of mine with 300,000+ miles on their (5) bikes (with built motors) since '06 won't run anything else.

When travelling, I might go from the low desert to 8,000ft in one day. (I like closed loop which a lot of tuners don't do)

Available Octane fuel varies in the US.

I am out of the dyno business!!! If I decide to change any components (heads, cams (with adjustable push rods, it's really easy to try different cams) , intake, exhaust, etc...) at any time, all I have to do is ride the bike.

There are some really good builders with many years of experience on this site, I'm sure they will help you get headed in the right direction.

    

[HD Street Performance]

You bring up good points but the exhaust is an issue there, check out TUV standards. This is why the bikes come with adaptive exhaust and the aftermarket mufflers carry a TUV rating.
I agree on the "electric motor" internet torque curves. In the real world I like adequate low end torque then a top end charge.
The 259 would require a piston change too.

[Rooster]

When I had the 110 in my bike it had headwork 50mm TB and stock cams it was fine most of the time where the problem for me was climbing at 4k I would feel it hit the wall and there just wasn't anyway to get anymore it was just done and I wanted more. Well not a problem anymore. Jim just starts to inhale about 2800 then yeeeha.

[FlaHeatWave]

You bring up good points but the exhaust is an issue there, check out TUV standards. This is why the bikes come with adaptive exhaust and the aftermarket mufflers carry a TUV rating.
I agree on the "electric motor" internet torque curves. In the real world I like adequate low end torque then a top end charge.
The 259 would require a piston change too.

'Ya learn somethin' new every day.

That's the way I like it too

Is there a good way to raise the c/r in the heads, using the stock pistons?

[FlaHeatWave]

When I had the 110 in my bike it had headwork 50mm TB and stock cams it was fine most of the time where the problem for me was climbing at 4k I would feel it hit the wall and there just wasn't anyway to get anymore it was just done and I wanted more. Well not a problem anymore. Jim just starts to inhale about 2800 then yeeeha.

I'm a big fan of the yeeeha too 

[Steve Cole]

If you want to raise the compression with stock pistons you can use a thinner head gasket and/or deck the heads. The only way to know for sure is to remove the heads and then check the piston height. I have seen them anywhere from 0.018" below the deck surface to 0.002" below. With this size range you can only take yours apart to see what you got. I have heard they make various thickness base gaskets to help straight it out but have never used them. I have just trimmed the cylinder barrels to get it correct then used the proper head gasket to get the squish area right. Once you've got that done now you can move onto the heads. The combustion chamber size varys by year and there again is a big range. About all you can do is cc them out and correct as necessary to get them to the same size for both cylinder. Then and only then can you figure out what you really have and what you need to change to get your desired compression ratio. For a street bike that goes all over I do not like to see much over 10:1 due to the gas variations we have here in the USA. If your willing to cut it a little closer 10.5:1 would be an upper limit to stick too for a street driven pump gas bike that doesn't have issues in high temperature areas.

[FlaHeatWave]

If you want to raise the compression with stock pistons you can use a thinner head gasket and/or deck the heads. The only way to know for sure is to remove the heads and then check the piston height. I have seen them anywhere from 0.018" below the deck surface to 0.002" below. With this size range you can only take yours apart to see what you got. I have heard they make various thickness base gaskets to help straight it out but have never used them. I have just trimmed the cylinder barrels to get it correct then used the proper head gasket to get the squish area right. Once you've got that done now you can move onto the heads. The combustion chamber size varys by year and there again is a big range. About all you can do is cc them out and correct as necessary to get them to the same size for both cylinder. Then and only then can you figure out what you really have and what you need to change to get your desired compression ratio. For a street bike that goes all over I do not like to see much over 10:1 due to the gas variations we have here in the USA. If your willing to cut it a little closer 10.5:1 would be an upper limit to stick too for a street driven pump gas bike that doesn't have issues in high temperature areas.

Steve,
Thank you for the info / validation.
Sounds like for a street build that pistons are the easiest way to go.

[HD Street Performance]

That Fuel Moto setup with the 222 cam would have you all smiles and with TUV mufflers would still crank out the torque.
Case and point to what I was saying. You don't have the exhaust capacity to leverage the longer overlap cams and they will get soggy and loose torque fast without nearly open exhaust.

[Steve Cole]

Steve,
Thank you for the info / validation.
Sounds like for a street build that pistons are the easiest way to go.

All depends  on what you have to start with from HD. While I'm not a fan of just buying parts and dropping them in some get away with it just fine. That is just why you see these huge differences on some of the dyno sheets for the same parts. Start with a low setup, build it and correct the issues and it looks like huge gains, then the next guy just drops parts in and doesn't see the gains or numbers on his dyno sheet. I like to see if the starting point is inline with most others FIRST.

The trick to all of this is the same regardless of,  if it's a 96, 103,110 or 120. Take it apart and straighten out the base issues or at least measure them to see where your at before you start bolting on parts. I've seen plenty of BS dyno sheets and some people are known for posting them. The best you can do is take an average of what you see for the same parts being used and hope you get it. So far the swing we are seeing on the 2014 103 watercooled bikes is about 8 - 10 HP STOCK, anyone wonder why?

It would amaze most of you if you got to see what we see here during testing. Same bike, same engine, same exhaust, same guy tuning (me) and 23 different bolt in camshafts. Then you get to see what they really do with just one thing being changed. Got 3 camshafts through the 2014 103 Water head already, only 20 more to go!

[Dietea]

"So far the swing we are seeing on the 2014 103 watercooled bikes is about 8 - 10 HP STOCK, anyone wonder why? "

This is very much, 10% of bike output?

There is several things what can make this variations. First of all, new 2014 H2O bikes only cylinder heads and there exhaust valve seats are water cooled. Rest of cylinder is air/ oil cooled. Is there differences in component temperatures when make dyno runs? Air/oil cooled engine component temperatures change internal parts clearances.

Ambient conditions: Air temperature, humidity, altitude. Altitude is same when dyno is make same location but rest of ambient conditions may wary and this will give differences.

Dyno charts are only guideline what you can expect in this setup.

[Steve Cole]

Same dyno, run by the same operator (me), conditions were close to identical, since nothing is perfect. The dyno calculate corrections for SAE was 1.00 for tests and run conditions for the engines were the same. To me numbers are what they are I really do not care. The dyno is just one of many tools we use to be able to get a baseline starting point and a finishing point. Then numbers themselves do not matter, if it starts at 10 and goes to 12 then we went up. Our concern is that we must be able to do the same test over again at a later time and get the same results. Without being able to do that the time and effort is wasted.

[FlaHeatWave]

All depends  on what you have to start with from HD. While I'm not a fan of just buying parts and dropping them in some get away with it just fine. That is just why you see these huge differences on some of the dyno sheets for the same parts. Start with a low setup, build it and correct the issues and it looks like huge gains, then the next guy just drops parts in and doesn't see the gains or numbers on his dyno sheet. I like to see if the starting point is inline with most others FIRST.

This would be what we used to call the "blueprinting" stage of engine development / building, boys & girls...