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[ut1391h]

When I started my 2009 CVO Ultra after a month of sitting it did not want to start and when it finally did it ran on one cylinder for quite a while. Seems to run normal after warm up but starts hard and rough til it warms up. I have 500 miles on Woods lifters but it was running fine when I parked it a month ago. Any ideas??

[98fxstc]

Ride it more !

 

[Para Bellum]

Did you (or anyone) do anything to put the bike in lay-up?

You might check the spark plugs for fouling.

[grc]

When I started my 2009 CVO Ultra after a month of sitting it did not want to start and when it finally did it ran on one cylinder for quite a while. Seems to run normal after warm up but starts hard and rough til it warms up. I have 500 miles on Woods lifters but it was running fine when I parked it a month ago. Any ideas??

Do you hear a lot of clattering from the valve train right after it finally starts?  If so, you may have one or more defective lifters that leak down and then take forever to pump back up.

Jerry

[ut1391h]

I did not do any kind of layup because I still plan to ride more this year. There was a lot of clatter in the top end when it started - if a lifter is leaking off does that prevent the valve from opening enough to fuel or exhaust the cylinder. In other words could a collapsed lifter totally kill a cylinder until it pumps back up??

[sadunbar]

I did not do any kind of layup because I still plan to ride more this year. There was a lot of clatter in the top end when it started - if a lifter is leaking off does that prevent the valve from opening enough to fuel or exhaust the cylinder. In other words could a collapsed lifter totally kill a cylinder until it pumps back up??

No, but a completely collapsed lifter will cause hard starting until it pumps up.  If your Woods lifters are adjusted to the Woods instructions, you are sitting about .130 deep into the .200 lifter plunger travel - leaving a maximum of .070 looseness if completely collapsed.  If you're able to do a compression check, the results may point you in a direction...

[ut1391h]

Thanks - I will check compression. Should have done it today when I had the plugs out but ....did not give it a thought. When I got back from a 4K mile Sturgis trip this Summer a lifter was really noisy at every start up and I was afraid a roller was coming apart so I replaced them with Woods. It ran great with a little noise at start up but then very quiet after oil was up - I was a "Happy Camper" but as so often happens it was only a temporary condition.

[sadunbar]

Thanks - I will check compression. Should have done it today when I had the plugs out but ....did not give it a thought. When I got back from a 4K mile Sturgis trip this Summer a lifter was really noisy at every start up and I was afraid a roller was coming apart so I replaced them with Woods. It ran great with a little noise at start up but then very quiet after oil was up - I was a "Happy Camper" but as so often happens it was only a temporary condition.

It could be a valve sticking in a valve guide...  (or a bunch of other things...)  A compression test is a good start in figuring it out.   

[ut1391h]

Well some minor surgery held me up but I finally got to check the compression. 30 0n front and 70 on rear. Both were 160 when I installed new lifters. What in the world would cause valves in both heads to stick at once and where do I go from here??

[eleft36]

Doesn't sound right, 30 _70, psi check the schrader valve in your gauge.

Al

[Lever]

does the bike have  ACR'S ...if it does aren't you  supposed to disable them ? for the compression check test

[grc]

If the compression is really that low the bike wouldn't have started and run at all, so I'm guessing the test was inaccurate for some reason.  Don't forget the throttle has to be wide open, which isn't as simple as it sounds on an ETC equipped bike versus a cable operated throttle.  Also make sure the automatic compression releases are disabled and not leaking.  The ACR's on the earlier 110's did have a history of issues, so don't assume they are good.  Could be stuck open, could be loose in the head and leaking, etc..

Jerry

[ut1391h]

Thanks for the feedback. My compression gage is OK as I tested my wife's Street Glide and it has 160 on both cylds - in fact her bike easily started on one cyld while I was checking compression on the other (I did ground plug). My bike now does not even try to start with both plugs in. I did not disconnect the compression releases so I will recheck that way but for sure there is a serious valve / valve train issue of some kind. Battery tender is green, nice blue spark but sounds to me like it is pulsing back through air filter.

[grc]

Thanks for the feedback. My compression gage is OK as I tested my wife's Street Glide and it has 160 on both cylds - in fact her bike easily started on one cyld while I was checking compression on the other (I did ground plug). My bike now does not even try to start with both plugs in. I did not disconnect the compression releases so I will recheck that way but for sure there is a serious valve / valve train issue of some kind. Battery tender is green, nice blue spark but sounds to me like it is pulsing back through air filter.

Remove both plugs, not just one, and don't crank the engine with the ignition on.  The best way to avoid ignition problems, ACR's operating, and fuel being injected is to crank the engine with a jumper from the battery hot lead at the starter to the solenoid terminal, all with the ignition switch OFF.  That's the only way I've ever done it.  I made up a simple push button jumper cable out of an old remote starter switch from my automotive tools, with a spade connector on one lead to fit the solenoid connector and a spring loaded clamp from a battery charger on the other lead to attach to the starter hot wire stud.  Works great for not only compression tests but also for turning the engine over to spray fogging oil into the cylinders for winter storage or for other diagnostics.

A 110 with stock cams and ACR's disabled should have a much higher cranking pressure than 160 psi btw.  And I don't think you mentioned if you used adjustable pushrods when you changed the lifters. If you did, double check those to make sure the adjusters haven't loosened and backed off.

Jerry

[ut1391h]

Jerry,  Thanks for the input. I have a push button rig that I used to use to bump over my drag car engine to adj. the valves that I can use. I do not have adj push rods. When the lifters started rattling this Summer I took the top end apart too to be sure everything up there was OK so there was no need for adj. push rods when replacing the lifters.