Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[jinxltd]

Ok so I have this delima that Im in my 2000 screamin eagle twin cam 95 inch has 65k miles on it & is eating oil, about 1 quart every 400 miles or so. now Im toying with serveal option & would like some imput from you guys as well as I have a few questions that are probable newbi for you guys but none the less I know very little about these machines. here goes questions.

1) I understand that the 2000 twin cam in the screaming eagle is a 95 inch & that is as big as you can go with out clearing the case?

ok proposed senarios

1) rebuild the stock engine in my bike, what heads to use ect? & yeah I want some reliability & ubderstand the bigger you go the more you wear things out.
2) find an old twin cam & build that.
3) find a crashed twin cam &rebuild engine & switch the fule system to a delfi? ( is this plausable ?) I know i would need the ecm & harness ect.

$
4) buy an s&s an drop it in
5) can I buy a harley 103 110 ect & bolt that in ? ( suggestion & options welcome please.
ok this should get thjings started & im sure some more question will come up for I have alot of them . please help & thanks in advance.
4

[Twolanerider]

A quart in 400 miles in tremendous consumption.  If it is consumption.  You seeing lots of smoke out the exhaust?  If so, when?  If all the time rather than just at start up or acceleration it might suggest different problems.

As for an engine alternative choice you didn't provide an answer that might be predicate to your options of fixing this one or buying bigger.  Do you want more power or are you satisfied with how the 95" engine ran?

Say more about how the engine is behaving.  Have you done a leak down test?  That's the most important test you could do right now to give any indications that might be helpful.

[bigskyroadglide]

my suggestion is based upon your available investment

To me, older bikes are a cross roads.  You can invest more in them than you will ever possibility get out of them, so i would decide my investment goal, then run that up against my hold on to the bike goal to see how to respond.

If investment is desired to be low, do a decent rebuild on what you have or a 98 kit, have a shop do a decent clean up on the heads and put it back together.  the 2000 bottom end is pretty good.

if investment is desired to be more than above, pull it, split the cases, put a crank in it, go 107, have the heads done and decide how you want fuel delivered.  Delphi or Carb.  Make those changes and be done.

if you think you will not hold on to the bike.  I would not put a ton of money in it.  If it is your dream bike and you will never sell, then its a different story.

[jinxltd]

A quart in 400 miles in tremendous consumption.  If it is consumption.  You seeing lots of smoke out the exhaust?  If so, when?  If all the time rather than just at start up or acceleration it might suggest different problems.

As for an engine alternative choice you didn't provide an answer that might be predicate to your options of fixing this one or buying bigger.  Do you want more power or are you satisfied with how the 95" engine ran?

Say more about how the engine is behaving.  Have you done a leak down test?  That's the most important test you could do right now to give any indications that might be helpful.

sorry at work trying not to get caught haha!
ok so i do see lots of smoke after exiting the freeway & coming to a stop, it just floods me with smoke, I don tend to see alot on accel or decel,
I also would like to go bigger have not done a leak test , I dont mind the 95 but Im kinda of a throttle junkie & like the power, I have no intentions of ever getting rid of this bike for it was my fathers so it is pretty sentimental if you will also getting this thing to idle is a pain it seems you can never get the idle set right witch seems to be a common issue with the MM fuel set up. witch is why I would lean twards delfi if that is an option but I have no Idea if thats a viable option, I know anything is possible with the cash & Im not limiting myself to how much of a budget to have It will be a slow prosses but in the end I want this thing to be bad a$$  thak sfor awnsering me I appreciate the help

[jinxltd]

my suggestion is based upon your available investment

To me, older bikes are a cross roads.  You can invest more in them than you will ever possibility get out of them, so i would decide my investment goal, then run that up against my hold on to the bike goal to see how to respond.

If investment is desired to be low, do a decent rebuild on what you have or a 98 kit, have a shop do a decent clean up on the heads and put it back together.  the 2000 bottom end is pretty good.

if investment is desired to be more than above, pull it, split the cases, put a crank in it, go 107, have the heads done and decide how you want fuel delivered.  Delphi or Carb.  Make those changes and be done.

if you think you will not hold on to the bike.  I would not put a ton of money in it.  If it is your dream bike and you will never sell, then its a different story.

Thanks for your responce it is much appreciated, the bike is never going to be sold @ least not in my life time as mentioned it is my fathers old bike he is the only other owner he boughht it brand new so with that said the budget is null but I dont want to throw money away either I do want to be smart about it & would prefer fuel injected & lots of power !

[timo482]

if its sentiment and you really want to keep it, go for it.

to go efi - get a crashed late model bike and replace everything. the newer the better - but new cranks are not quite as good as your old crank, but the parts are NOT interchangeable.

to keep it basically stock - have hd rebuild the motor - the reman program is pretty good

the 2000 has a good crankcase - issues with cam bearings - several ways to solve it - back then gears were the answer and all the gear drive stuff is available. 5 speeds are reliable, 6 speeds available to fit the case - hd and baker. if you add more power the 65k miles on the trans may be a issue - did that once, rebuilt the engine - trans lasted 6 weeks, bike had about a hundred thousand on it.

replace every single rubber part that you have any reason to remove.

as always - the closer to stock the simpler it is to get parts - ymmv

to

[jinxltd]

if its sentiment and you really want to keep it, go for it.

to go efi - get a crashed late model bike and replace everything. the newer the better - but new cranks are not quite as good as your old crank, but the parts are NOT interchangeable.

to keep it basically stock - have hd rebuild the motor - the reman program is pretty good

the 2000 has a good crankcase - issues with cam bearings - several ways to solve it - back then gears were the answer and all the gear drive stuff is available. 5 speeds are reliable, 6 speeds available to fit the case - hd and baker. if you add more power the 65k miles on the trans may be a issue - did that once, rebuilt the engine - trans lasted 6 weeks, bike had about a hundred thousand on it.

replace every single rubber part that you have any reason to remove.

as always - the closer to stock the simpler it is to get parts - ymmv

to
 AWESOME THANKS,!
I just had the tensioners done & really wanted to go gears but there is too much end play on the crank so I am not really sure if I pull it out & redo the bearing insuch if that could change the end play or not, If it would & I could I would keep it & go gears & than try to fugure out what to do with the top end.
I guess I could use recommenmdations on what to do like What jugs to get witch heads & cams ect  & such any type of input would be greatly appreciated 
Thanks again for all of your input

[timo482]

appears the bike is stock,

you should at least check out the hd rebuild - reasonable price, warranty, new style tensioners and new style oil pump.

$3395

there are lots of options - but for that price its essentially a new, updated engine with the factory serial numbers.

19111-06A Silver and Chrome TC95A 1550 REMAN $3,395.00

to

[jinxltd]

appears the bike is stock,

you should at least check out the hd rebuild - reasonable price, warranty, new style tensioners and new style oil pump.

$3395

there are lots of options - but for that price its essentially a new, updated engine with the factory serial numbers.

19111-06A Silver and Chrome TC95A 1550 REMAN $3,395.00

to
Any chance you know if they will put gear to gear in it, than I just have to make my fuel delivery choice. I really dont care for the MM set up. thanks

[Fired00d]

Any chance you know if they will put gear to gear in it, than I just have to make my fuel delivery choice. I really dont care for the MM set up. thanks

Nope, no gear drives... Re-manufactured engines from the MoCo come strictly stock... no modifications.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

sorry at work trying not to get caught haha!
ok so i do see lots of smoke after exiting the freeway & coming to a stop, it just floods me with smoke, I don tend to see alot on accel or decel,
I also would like to go bigger have not done a leak test , I dont mind the 95 but Im kinda of a throttle junkie & like the power, I have no intentions of ever getting rid of this bike for it was my fathers so it is pretty sentimental if you will also getting this thing to idle is a pain it seems you can never get the idle set right witch seems to be a common issue with the MM fuel set up. witch is why I would lean twards delfi if that is an option but I have no Idea if thats a viable option, I know anything is possible with the cash & Im not limiting myself to how much of a budget to have It will be a slow prosses but in the end I want this thing to be bad a$$  thak sfor awnsering me I appreciate the help

Given when you're describing the smoke it doesn't sound like a case of valve seals and guides that are just gone and/or monstrously bad.  Forget to ask how often plugs are beginning to show signs of fouling.

You can go to 98" and only have to remove the heads, cylinders and pistons.  Can leave the lower end intact and in the bike.  Stout 98" motors are easy to build too.

Your ignition issues are probably soluble.  The M&M systems aren't nearly as "mysterious" as people today tend to treat them.  If you do wish to convert, however, there are options.  All the guts from a newer bike could include everything from the battery box (to mount the module) to the harnesses, ECM, gauges and other bits.  Just depends on what your donor is. 

There are aftermarket conversion kits that are less work.  Zippers offers one as does S&S.  You'll be updating to their ECM (Thundermax from Zippers and I've forgotten what S&S calls theirs), unplugging the cam position sensor, changing throttle bodies to go more Delphi up there and altering fuel lines to match the new TB.  It's a long Saturday job but the kits do work fine.  When  done all the M&M quirks are behind you.

Sounds like both because no real specific cause of your issues are determined your set on engine work.  Decide if you want a little bigger or a lot bigger.  If a little bigger the relatively simple 98" build is easy and quick.  If a lot bigger you've got more work ahead of you and a more thoroughly gutted bike to get there.  Pick your poison .

[jinxltd]

Given when you're describing the smoke it doesn't sound like a case of valve seals and guides that are just gone and/or monstrously bad.  Forget to ask how often plugs are beginning to show signs of fouling.

You can go to 98" and only have to remove the heads, cylinders and pistons.  Can leave the lower end intact and in the bike.  Stout 98" motors are easy to build too.

Your ignition issues are probably soluble.  The M&M systems aren't nearly as "mysterious" as people today tend to treat them.  If you do wish to convert, however, there are options.  All the guts from a newer bike could include everything from the battery box (to mount the module) to the harnesses, ECM, gauges and other bits.  Just depends on what your donor is. 

There are aftermarket conversion kits that are less work.  Zippers offers one as does S&S.  You'll be updating to their ECM (Thundermax from Zippers and I've forgotten what S&S calls theirs), unplugging the cam position sensor, changing throttle bodies to go more Delphi up there and altering fuel lines to match the new TB.  It's a long Saturday job but the kits do work fine.  When  done all the M&M quirks are behind you.

Sounds like both because no real specific cause of your issues are determined your set on engine work.  Decide if you want a little bigger or a lot bigger.  If a little bigger the relatively simple 98" build is easy and quick.  If a lot bigger you've got more work ahead of you and a more thoroughly gutted bike to get there.  Pick your poison .

Thanks for all the info that's really what I was looking for a bit of direction, the smoking generally happens at idle I think I've fouled 1 set of plugs in 5 years but this post season it was going through oil like crazy I think it needs to be freshend up but since I'm in there I was thinking about improvements on the performance end of things like can I go Bigger bore (98 sounds good thanks for the info), what can I do for heads have the ones I have done up ported polished, bigger springs etc, cause I'd like to throw bigger cams in it? Seems like keeping the stock motor may be the way to go and I'm really interested in learning more of the 98 build, any chance there's a build of this on here(I'm gonna search don't worry) thanks again for everyone who posted to this thread, any more tips or info regarding the 98 would be appreciated. Thanks

[Twolanerider]

Thanks for all the info that's really what I was looking for a bit of direction, the smoking generally happens at idle I think I've fouled 1 set of plugs in 5 years but this post season it was going through oil like crazy I think it needs to be freshend up but since I'm in there I was thinking about improvements on the performance end of things like can I go Bigger bore (98 sounds good thanks for the info), what can I do for heads have the ones I have done up ported polished, bigger springs etc, cause I'd like to throw bigger cams in it? Seems like keeping the stock motor may be the way to go and I'm really interested in learning more of the 98 build, any chance there's a build of this on here(I'm gonna search don't worry) thanks again for everyone who posted to this thread, any more tips or info regarding the 98 would be appreciated. Thanks

You'll likely find lots of build info.  But it's an easy upgrade to accomplish.  Especially since you have to at least consider the prospect of a busted ring if you know you're starting with new cylinders you know you'll be good to go.

As for heads speak with one of the known good porters.  There are many.  Don't worry about staying "local" either.  Heads are small enough to ship anywhere easily.  There are several good guys for head work who populate this site.  Some will give discounts to site members too.

Keep in mind that you're working with combinations.  You need to decide what you want the engine to do (bagger torque roll on versus high rpm high hp numbers monster versus whatever else it is you might be looking for).  Decide those intents rather than deciding what parts you want.  Once you know that talk to the head work guy and tell him what you want.  He should be able to recommend a cam/head work/compression/pistons combination to get that done.  If he can't find another guy for head work.

The shop doing head work will likely be able to supply the machined cylinders and pistons also.  If so you've got it all done at a one stop shop.  Only other parts you might need to acquire will be cam chest parts.  You have the benefit of almost certainly being able to use gear drive in the cam chest.  Most newer engines have way to much crank run out to do this safely.  You'll likely be in great shape there so you'll never have to worry about cam tensioners again.

The M&M setup can reach far enough to tune a 98" build.  It can't well handle a lot bigger but it can do that.  You'll need the Marelli version of TTS or the Power Commander (two likely best choices) or whatever other tuning device you might choose if you decide to stay with Marelli (permanently or just for now).  If looking to kick the Marelli setup to the curb at the same time open your wallet a lot wider and check out the S&S or Zippers retrofit kits. 

Good luck buddy.  Which color is your 2000?  You lucky enough to have a red one? 

[HD Street Performance]

IME and testing the MM motors will start to have diminishing returns after 100hp at 95". Throttle body airflow and injector angles hinder the performance gains. Some of the early HD packages that used bigger cams and heads such as the SE Performance heads that offered improved airflow reached a wall and the smaller cam and head (TW37, S&S 570) type of builds would out accelerate them and give better performance overall. Today if one is determined to keep the MM injection best bet is to see HPI and get their single throat TB with Delphi injectors. The wall is now removed within reason. The MM is still Alpha-N so it has a little drawback when tuning high compression motors but that can be worked around in most circumstances. I am working on a set of heads for a 120 that uses MM injection and makes 151hp so case and point it can be done.

[jinxltd]

You'll likely find lots of build info.  But it's an easy upgrade to accomplish.  Especially since you have to at least consider the prospect of a busted ring if you know you're starting with new cylinders you know you'll be good to go.

As for heads speak with one of the known good porters.  There are many.  Don't worry about staying "local" either.  Heads are small enough to ship anywhere easily.  There are several good guys for head work who populate this site.  Some will give discounts to site members too.

Keep in mind that you're working with combinations.  You need to decide what you want the engine to do (bagger torque roll on versus high rpm high hp numbers monster versus whatever else it is you might be looking for).  Decide those intents rather than deciding what parts you want.  Once you know that talk to the head work guy and tell him what you want.  He should be able to recommend a cam/head work/compression/pistons combination to get that done.  If he can't find another guy for head work.

The shop doing head work will likely be able to supply the machined cylinders and pistons also.  If so you've got it all done at a one stop shop.  Only other parts you might need to acquire will be cam chest parts.  You have the benefit of almost certainly being able to use gear drive in the cam chest.  Most newer engines have way to much crank run out to do this safely.  You'll likely be in great shape there so you'll never have to worry about cam tensioners again.

The M&M setup can reach far enough to tune a 98" build.  It can't well handle a lot bigger but it can do that.  You'll need the Marelli version of TTS or the Power Commander (two likely best choices) or whatever other tuning device you might choose if you decide to stay with Marelli (permanently or just for now).  If looking to kick the Marelli setup to the curb at the same time open your wallet a lot wider and check out the S&S or Zippers retrofit kits. 

Good luck buddy.  Which color is your 2000?  You lucky enough to have a red one? 

Thanks for your help & info, it is greatly appreciated. Mine is the black & orange. Unfortunatly I just had the timing tensioners & cams done about 1000 miles ago & they told me I had too much runout to go gear so that is a bummer but not the end of the world. I think the direction Im leaning tward is keeping the fuel delivery (MM) & going for the 98 setup, Going fo max power I think anyways lol. but thank you soo much for the help I know when it comes to performance & engines there is a million diufferent ways to do it & probably 1k way to to it right . Ill check into head guys & find a 98 kit, I checked Zipps & I didnt see one from them maybe I just arnt looking in the right spot. much thanks for sure