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Author Topic: Head milling question  (Read 4833 times)

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Twism_23

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Head milling question
« on: March 25, 2014, 05:37:43 PM »

I emailed to someone about milling my heads today and in his reply he wrote something I had never heard of so I wanted to ask you guys on here about it. When I asked the cost, he said, "normally it's $65.00 a head but to cut the step as well it will be $80.00." I don't know what he meant by "the step". I replied asking the question but they are closed so I thought I'd ask on here.
Thx
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TorqueInc

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2014, 06:10:02 PM »

Must be Coffee

might be referencing spin dropping the head....leaving the combustion chamber part of the head lower than the rest of the mating surface to increase compression without cutting the cylinders shorter or using pistons with a taller compression height.
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prodrag1320

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #2 on: March 29, 2014, 07:20:13 AM »

your not using cylinders with a fire ring? he could be talking about that.if its just a regular sock head/cylinder,i have no idea what he`s thinking about

Twism_23

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2014, 08:51:50 AM »

Thanks
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2019 FLHXSE FM 128, Wood 22X-E, SE 64mm TB, 5.5 inj., D&D Billet Cat, Aim SDR, Legend  Revo-A, 12” F47, SE Vent. Extreme, SR Comp Ramp, Rekluse Slave

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2017 RGS - FM 124, SE 64mm TB 6.3 inj, Feuling 521, S&S Lifters & Oil pump & Cam plate, AIM SDR, F47 12", D&D Billet Cat,Corbin Classic Solo, 21" Aggressor

HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2014, 06:49:10 AM »

We've established "drop-spin" cylinder head machining when/where warranted.
You can set the quench/squish your looking for, regardless of the piston being below deck, or cylinder head gasket thickness.
Piece-o-cake.............
Scott
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rbabos

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2014, 09:18:32 AM »

Yup. Spin drop developed by Coffey back in the shovelhead days. Better options these days. Heads hang around a lot longer then cyls do , so why not modify the cyl instead of the head for decking?
Ron
« Last Edit: April 01, 2014, 09:20:22 AM by rbabos »
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TorqueInc

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #6 on: April 01, 2014, 05:33:38 PM »

 Probably would not hurt to square up the cylinders anyhow,probably should be done on a between centers mandrel instead of being stuck against a 3 or 4 jaw,way less runout.  :2vrolijk_21:
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timo482

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2014, 08:30:19 PM »

lathe chucks are within a few thou, 5c collets are within a few tenths - if they are clean. a mandrel can hold a tenth or two if the bearings are good on the live center and the dead center is true.

of course it helps to have a large oversize heavy lathe with good bearings..  hardinge or zubal or something like that.

to
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2014, 05:59:20 AM »

lathe chucks are within a few thou, 5c collets are within a few tenths - if they are clean. a mandrel can hold a tenth or two if the bearings are good on the live center and the dead center is true.

of course it helps to have a large oversize heavy lathe with good bearings..  hardinge or zubal or something like that.

to


We manufactured custom 6061-T6 aluminum soft-jaws to gently hold the radius of the ID of the cylinder, many, many years ago.
We then do not arbitrarily suspect that the cylinder is running true, as it is then checked with a Starrett Last Word universal test indicator, and adjusted to run true, if need be.
Then, at that point a bull-nose center is brought to contact/support the spigot, and the back face of the precision center is also indicated to run true, and then the tailstock is locked, and then gentle cuts are then made to establish the desired overall cylinder length.
This method is very rugged, and very accurate.
The mention of the 3-4 jaw comment is a totally ludicrous remark from someone not aware of simple, basic, machining processes, that any entry-level apprentice, would/should be overly aware of.
Boot, in mouth, once again. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott
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timo482

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #9 on: April 02, 2014, 10:12:17 AM »

 I recently made some steam valves that were spec'd four digits and had to sixe on the zubal, tool a day to make the fixture with a soft 5c face collet, 32 parts within five tenths... Exhausting work having to hold my breath moving the dials fractions of thousandths. Really should put a dro on the compound .
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #10 on: April 02, 2014, 12:28:29 PM »

I recently made some steam valves that were spec'd four digits and had to sixe on the zubal, tool a day to make the fixture with a soft 5c face collet, 32 parts within five tenths... Exhausting work having to hold my breath moving the dials fractions of thousandths. Really should put a dro on the compound .

Used to hold some mighty tight tolerances myself, when employed by various tool shops.
You could set-up a .0001" indicator such as a Federal, on that compound next time you encounter that? :2vrolijk_21: :2vrolijk_21:
The 10', .060" thick wall, Reynolds seamless aluminum tubing drive shafts for the AH-64 Apache attack helicopters had .0005" bores on each end, and had to run within .001" of each other.
Think about that one for a miniute...........no joy, but we made 'em.
Scott
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TorqueInc

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #11 on: April 02, 2014, 03:29:03 PM »


We manufactured custom 6061-T6 aluminum soft-jaws to gently hold the radius of the ID of the cylinder, many, many years ago.
We then do not arbitrarily suspect that the cylinder is running true, as it is then checked with a Starrett Last Word universal test indicator, and adjusted to run true, if need be.
Then, at that point a bull-nose center is brought to contact/support the spigot, and the back face of the precision center is also indicated to run true, and then the tailstock is locked, and then gentle cuts are then made to establish the desired overall cylinder length.
This method is very rugged, and very accurate.
The mention of the 3-4 jaw comment is a totally ludicrous remark from someone not aware of simple, basic, machining processes, that any entry-level apprentice, would/should be overly aware of.
Boot, in mouth, once again. :2vrolijk_21:
Scott

  If I wanted to spend all day setting up cylinders....that would be fine

  With a mandrel you can cut both ends off the same setup....much quicker and more accurate.

  Not sure how having the right tool for the job makes you right or wrong but.....no beaver tooth marks in my cylinders  :2vrolijk_21:
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HILLSIDECYCLE.COM

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #12 on: April 02, 2014, 04:59:39 PM »

  If I wanted to spend all day setting up cylinders....that would be fine

  With a mandrel you can cut both ends off the same setup....much quicker and more accurate.

  Not sure how having the right tool for the job makes you right or wrong but.....no beaver tooth marks in my cylinders  :2vrolijk_21:

 Too funny............. :D
« Last Edit: April 02, 2014, 05:32:13 PM by HILLSIDECYCLE.COM »
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smiley1049

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #13 on: April 02, 2014, 05:05:08 PM »

Try using some of that knowledge Then
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willyB

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Re: Head milling question
« Reply #14 on: April 02, 2014, 07:34:37 PM »

Oh no, the vendor on vendor sarcasm continues >:(
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