Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[snowrider13]

One more input on comp. sprocket failures. Noticed more material than I am happy with on magnetic drain plug.(2013 CVO r/g). Of course dealer said it is normal. When I asked why my 2003 RK doesn't show this much they had no answer. 2003 has upwards of 60,000 miles and with the exception of warranty period has run on type F atf in primary. After having my 1000 mile check done in Fall of 2012 I noticed on my bill that 32oz. of primary fluid was used on the CVO. (manual calls for 38oz). Dealer stated that Harley recommends 28-32 oz per bulliten. Calling around to 4 other dealers net the same answer...ALL dresser primarys take 32 oz. No one including Harley could produce a bulliten, nor would Harley even tell me how much to use! Comparing how far up on the plates the fluid rides on both bikes I added the additional 6oz. in the 2013 with no negative effects.Has anyone else encounter this? Could this be part of the Comp. spocket problem? 6 oz. may not seem like much, in my book it is a 20% increase. All these capacities are on REFILL only...Dry measurement on the 2013 is 45oz.

[rbabos]

One more input on comp. sprocket failures. Noticed more material than I am happy with on magnetic drain plug.(2013 CVO r/g). Of course dealer said it is normal. When I asked why my 2003 RK doesn't show this much they had no answer. 2003 has upwards of 60,000 miles and with the exception of warranty period has run on type F atf in primary. After having my 1000 mile check done in Fall of 2012 I noticed on my bill that 32oz. of primary fluid was used on the CVO. (manual calls for 38oz). Dealer stated that Harley recommends 28-32 oz per bulliten. Calling around to 4 other dealers net the same answer...ALL dresser primarys take 32 oz. No one including Harley could produce a bulliten, nor would Harley even tell me how much to use! Comparing how far up on the plates the fluid rides on both bikes I added the additional 6oz. in the 2013 with no negative effects.Has anyone else encounter this? Could this be part of the Comp. spocket problem? 6 oz. may not seem like much, in my book it is a 20% increase. All these capacities are on REFILL only...Dry measurement on the 2013 is 45oz.

No connection at all to comp failure. Oil doesn't get into the comp when it's spinning. As for the earlier lasting longer it's range of function is way less and even thought they run dry as well the smaller ramping motions won't eat it up as fast. When they went to the larger dia sprockets from 07 and up the rotational motion within the comp increased a lot and running dry the translated to greater wear in a shorter period of time. Only solution was to get oil to the innards of the comp. MoCo got half way there with the 2014 version, Compensaver finishes the job they missed.
Ron

[grc]

I think the real reason for the discrepancy in the primary fill spec has to do with how much actually drains.  The 38 ounce spec is for a completely dry primary, such as after you've pulled the cover and replaced the primary components for instance.  The 32 ounce spec is for a typical drain and fill service.  The entire primary on the 2007 and later bikes is different from previous models, so you can't make a direct comparison to your earlier bike.  My 1999 and 2005 drained almost completely and 32 ounces was the correct amount.  Later models have a slightly higher capacity primary but don't drain as well.

The best way to fill the primary on any model year is to fill it with the bike sitting level until the fluid level just touches the bottom of the clutch spring.  That takes all the variability of the specs and how much you actually drained out of the picture.

Jerry

[skratch]

I think the real reason for the discrepancy in the primary fill spec has to do with how much actually drains.  The 38 ounce spec is for a completely dry primary, such as after you've pulled the cover and replaced the primary components for instance.  The 32 ounce spec is for a typical drain and fill service.  The entire primary on the 2007 and later bikes is different from previous models, so you can't make a direct comparison to your earlier bike.  My 1999 and 2005 drained almost completely and 32 ounces was the correct amount.  Later models have a slightly higher capacity primary but don't drain as well.

The best way to fill the primary on any model year is to fill it with the bike sitting level until the fluid level just touches the bottom of the clutch spring.  That takes all the variability of the specs and how much you actually drained out of the picture.

Jerry

actually, since 2007, the completely dry spec is 45 oz, and refill (wet) is 38.  at least on the touring bikes.

[sadunbar]

actually, since 2007, the completely dry spec is 45 oz, and refill (wet) is 38.  at least on the touring bikes.

I'm sure Jerry (GRC) was responding to the OP who stated he also has a 2003 Road King...  The spec's he referenced are correct for a 2003 RK. 

But you're right, the spec for 2007 and up is as you mention - dry fill 45oz, refill 38oz.   

[fastfreddy]

just had a machine works bandit clutch installed and the instruction sheet states to use 14 oz. of 80w oil, now im wondering if thats enough may be ill give them a call, any body know why a lower level would be ok ?? 

[rbabos]

just had a machine works bandit clutch installed and the instruction sheet states to use 14 oz. of 80w oil, now im wondering if thats enough may be ill give them a call, any body know why a lower level would be ok ?? 

Probably the clutch will like it with less fluid drag. Not sure about the rest of the components in the primary.
Ron

[grc]

I'm sure Jerry (GRC) was responding to the OP who stated he has a 2003 Road King...  The spec's he referenced are correct for a 2003 RK. 

But you're right, the spec for 2007 and up is as you mention - dry fill 45oz, refill 38oz.   

Yeah, I kind of messed that one up; should have also mentioned the higher capacity specs for the later models.  I would be unhappy with a dealership that said they just automatically dump in 32 ounces in a 2007 and later bike, but that is in fact a good amount for the 2006 and earlier bikes. 

The best method is still to fill to the bottom edge of the clutch spring regardless.  As for the dealers blowing smoke up a customer's butt about the amount required, with nothing in writing to back them up, that stopped surprising me within the first couple years of buying my first Harley.  BS seems to be the official language at the typical Harley operation.  And if I read that OP correctly, even H-D wouldn't give him a straight answer?  That is really sad when the folks who make the product can't answer a simple question like fluid capacity.  If Harley had officially changed the capacity, it should be reflected in the current model owner manuals and shop manuals.  I don't remember anyone saying it had changed from the 38/45 that was listed in 2007.

Jerry

[hdaliaconis]

I agree with Jerry, add enough to come to the bottom of the clutch ring/spring.  What ever amount that is.  Personally I run Red Line MTF/Primary oil right off the bat.  Will not effect the warranty.  If the drain plug magnet doesn't have bits of metal on it don't worry about it. 

[skratch]

I'm sure Jerry (GRC) was responding to the OP who stated he also has a 2003 Road King...  The spec's he referenced are correct for a 2003 RK. 

But you're right, the spec for 2007 and up is as you mention - dry fill 45oz, refill 38oz.   

wasn't trying to step on any toes, was more just wanting to add that distinction for the benefit of someone who came across this thread while searching and didn't know that the capacities had changed.

even though the capacity changed in 07, i still hear of dealerships that just dump a qt in and call it good.

[sadunbar]

wasn't trying to step on any toes, was more just wanting to add that distinction for the benefit of someone who came across this thread while searching and didn't know that the capacities had changed.

even though the capacity changed in 07, i still hear of dealerships that just dump a qt in and call it good.

 

[grc]

wasn't trying to step on any toes, was more just wanting to add that distinction for the benefit of someone who came across this thread while searching and didn't know that the capacities had changed.

even though the capacity changed in 07, i still hear of dealerships that just dump a qt in and call it good.

I'm glad you caught it and mentioned it.  I hate to make misleading posts, and try to avoid it whenever possible, but that one slipped right past me (another case of thinking one thing and typing something else, probably due to "old timers").  Thanks for catching it.

Jerry

[GMR-PERFORMANCE]

I think the real reason for the discrepancy in the primary fill spec has to do with how much actually drains.  The 38 ounce spec is for a completely dry primary, such as after you've pulled the cover and replaced the primary components for instance.  The 32 ounce spec is for a typical drain and fill service.  The entire primary on the 2007 and later bikes is different from previous models, so you can't make a direct comparison to your earlier bike.  My 1999 and 2005 drained almost completely and 32 ounces was the correct amount.  Later models have a slightly higher capacity primary but don't drain as well.

The best way to fill the primary on any model year is to fill it with the bike sitting level until the fluid level just touches the bottom of the clutch spring.  That takes all the variability of the specs and how much you actually drained out of the picture.

Jerry

 

But in the end does the extra few oz's really make any change??  For all we now that was another band aid fix for the comp HA HA 

[fastfreddy]

Called MW asked about their 14 oz fill, after our chat, I concluded the comp is gona fail sooner or later no matter what the oil level is, so less oil dragging on the clutch the better shifting will be & easer to find nutral. Oh, there has to be a HP gain also

[JoeVibe]

Called MW asked about their 14 oz fill, after our chat, I concluded the comp is gona fail sooner or later no matter what the oil level is, so less oil dragging on the clutch the better shifting will be & easer to find nutral. Oh, there has to be a HP gain also

Look into the Compensaver!