Maybe the added preload (or less preload) changes the pushrod angle enough to get the ball in the cup better centered and not jump out.....
OK JK
Don
If the valve stem protrusion is set up correctly as you know there really should not be an issue. I did get the chance end of last week to play around with the pre load.. I started at the STD base spec ( 2.5 turns with these) I then got the engine up to 275F. I started backing the pre load off by .025 increments at .050 it rattled. I then went back increasing in .010 increments. at .060 the rattle went away. I brought the engine up to 325 ( full on parade mode) no issues.
99% of the shops out there do not fret over setting to .140-.160 as the magic setting. .100-.120 ( your normal spec) will get the job done with good parts every day of the week. Now have some heads with jacked up geometry and spring pressure all over the board.. That's an issue in its self.
No to address the sillyness again really??!!!
As I have said before To state to another shop they are wrong as that's not how its done in your shop is JUST your opinion. Now Palmer if you can provide some real proof and actual technical information as to how it would be of benefit then that is great. I am sure no one is going to get upset about learning something.
So many shops out there are keeping up with the curve,...testing, installing, tuning ( back to back test and tune) even having custom parts made to their specs which in turn help's out the industry. All in the search for things that work and then have valid data to show. Real proof that has taken days and weeks, months and in some cases years of testing .
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Topic: 2013 TC 103" Sounds like a Sewing Machine (Read 16693 times)