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[Rhino]

Hi TC,

What I did, after looking hard at this little project with advice from experts...

Finding that yellow wire was easy. Hmm after looking at it I ending up using a tap on connector from radio shack. I disconnected the harness holding the yellow wire (and about 10 others) for a bit more manuvering room. First I added my pigtail to the connector, long enough to reach where I was going with it (over to the blue wire on the fender tip lite open circuit).  I slipped it in the slotted side, and it stayed in place. I used a 16ga.  Then I carefully positioned the in-line portion of the connector around the yellow, and when ready, was able to get a pliers in there to squeeze them and the connector together. After I did that, I THEN cut the yellow in back of the connector (the side going to the dash switches) and taped it all up to make sure that there woud be no exposed anything.  That way it was easier for ME.  Now the yellow was cut leaving the yellow going into the multiconnector open, and the yellow was now connected to the pigtail wire connector, and that long pigtail was routed around the front and then connected to the BLUE at the fender tip.

After it was all together, and everything was secure, it was time to test.  Turning on the ign, and there it was, spots during the low and high beam, and the spot switch works totally independant.  



I was in my bike shop  (say fancy shed) at the rear of the property when I finished this project.  It was about that time I heard my daughter screaming (just loud, not in horror), exclaiming the garage door was trying to crush our cat.  Needless to say, as I was testing all this wonderful stuff, flipping the high and low beam, little did I know, my programmed switch was opening and closing the garage door.   I was laughing hysterically when I saw that one, reminded my of a tv commercial about "what does this switch do honey?"  

Rhino

[Midnight Rider]

Glad it worked out for you, Rhino....I did the same thing with the garage door...I'd do it, then forget, and do it again...sometimes I amaze myself with how goofy I can be.  I was 25 feet from the door!!  More light is a good thing!!  I'm going to test mine on the road this weekend as the temps here are around 70 in the day and 50 at night.

[Rhino]

Yes TC,

Thank YOU!

PS, cat survived...

See ya!

[SEULTRA]

Hi TC,

What I did, after looking hard at this little project with advice from experts...

Finding that yellow wire was easy. Hmm after looking at it I ending up using a tap on connector from radio shack. I disconnected the harness holding the yellow wire (and about 10 others) for a bit more manuvering room. First I added my pigtail to the connector, long enough to reach where I was going with it (over to the blue wire on the fender tip lite open circuit).  I slipped it in the slotted side, and it stayed in place. I used a 16ga.  Then I carefully positioned the in-line portion of the connector around the yellow, and when ready, was able to get a pliers in there to squeeze them and the connector together. After I did that, I THEN cut the yellow in back of the connector (the side going to the dash switches) and taped it all up to make sure that there woud be no exposed anything.  That way it was easier for ME.  Now the yellow was cut leaving the yellow going into the multiconnector open, and the yellow was now connected to the pigtail wire connector, and that long pigtail was routed around the front and then connected to the BLUE at the fender tip.

After it was all together, and everything was secure, it was time to test.  Turning on the ign, and there it was, spots during the low and high beam, and the spot switch works totally independant.  



[highlight]I was in my bike shop  (say fancy shed) at the rear of the property when I finished this project.  It was about that time I heard my daughter screaming (just loud, not in horror), exclaiming the garage door was trying to crush our cat.  Needless to say, as I was testing all this wonderful stuff, flipping the high and low beam, little did I know, my programmed switch was opening and closing the garage door.   I was laughing hysterically when I saw that one, reminded my of a tv commercial about "what does this switch do honey?"  [/highlight]

Rhino

[size=36]LMAO!!![/size]  

[hard10]

Since the change over to the new format, we lost some posts. I NEED to do this when I do my Buletooth.

Is the prefered way still cutting the yellow wire?

How do I know which wire is the fender light? Which color is positive? Is there a diagram?

I need help on this one! TIA, AJ

[ima29]

Aloha AJ,

I just did this last Sunday while installing some J&M stuff also.

Pics in this thread are helpful. I cut the yellow wire from harness, taped and heat shrink on switch side then wired the other yellow end into the blue fender tip light wire. No brainer as the other wire with blue is black. Took longer to convince myself that this yellow wire was the one to cut. As stated, it is in harness along with about 15 other wires. Seems like there was more than 10. The switch side is the side nearest the front looking at it attached to fairing support bracket.

Kelly

[Rhino]

Aj,  I have done 4 of these so far, and it is very easy, as long as you look at the pictures. I got it down to 10 minutes each now, and works well.  On the new 07 CUSE2's, which I am familiar with, you can also tap into the fender wires from the existing leads that already have connectors on them. The only cut you have to do is the yellow at the specified harness, I never tried it from the other side of the harness, and it is a bit tight to get in there if you just remove the outer fairing.  Believe me, those in-line taps are the way to go.


Rhino

[hard10]

I need help!
We're in the garage now trying to figure out which yellow & blue wires to cut! Any help? AJ

[hard10]

Another ? If you attach to the blue wire, will you still have control using the spot switch?

[Rhino]

As said, ony the yeloow is cut, and then from the dash side (which ultimately goes to the switches) , not the harness side. (The harness side is left with the yellow sticking out of it, and tape it off), attach a wire TO the yellow coming from the dash, and run it in the fairing TO the fender tip light, and yes, the spots are controlled as normal with the switch, the only diff is the spots stay on while the high beam is on too.

Rhino

[hogasm]

Did you get it to work for you AJ

Are you  heavily because things didn't go according to plan

[Twolanerider]

You know what happened when MacGyver cut the wrong wire.   Boom! 

[Midnight Rider]

As said, ony the yeloow is cut, and then from the dash side (which ultimately goes to the switches) , not the harness side. (The harness side is left with the yellow sticking out of it, and tape it off), attach a wire TO the yellow coming from the dash, and run it in the fairing TO the fender tip light, and yes, the spots are controlled as normal with the switch, the only diff is the spots stay on while the high beam is on too.

Rhino

AJ....what he said!!  That puts the aux lights on it's own circuit and still lets the switch work.

[Twolanerider]

AJ....what he said!!  That puts the aux lights on it's own circuit and still lets the switch work.

And that's a good thing.  You do not want to find out how much leather can be quickly and almost permanently sucked up your ass when a fuse blows that suddenly lands you in the deafening darkness of having neither headlights nor spots in the middle of a long sweeping turn on a dark moonless night.  You might as well just buy a new seat when that happens.

[hard10]

Yellow wire is pin #  2 in the 18 pin harness coming off the switch side

Pix to follow