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[MrSurly]

Handlebar swap, Wild One 575 (blem) on a 2010 Ultra CVO

They were nice enough to circle the offending blemish with a Sharpie; I would NEVER have found it otherwise.

I ordered these hoses just to be sure that I'd be ready, even though many reports say they aren't needed.




For the record, I needed the clutch hose; the brake hose is going back.

The clutch hose was supposed to have a 35* cant at the banjo end. This one is straight, mis-packaged, I guess.



 Anyway, this error actually worked out as a plus. It lead to rerouting the hose and that in turn improved the look (symmetry, ya know) and freed up the grommet for some audio gadget use.
Original clutch hose routing


Original brake hose routing


New clutch hose routing

familiar, eh?
I need to get a pic from the rear view...

 The trans end needs to be bent and it's just tubing, so no problem. I used a left over Ram Mount part as a bending die.




The nut used on the replacement cable is not the long hex style and this creates a real problem for wrench access.

There are only two options at this point: remove the entire exhaust system for access...
OR



Make a special tool


I didn't feel like pulling the pipes.


Before removing the bars I used an angle finder on the vertical part of the bar to record their position. I installed the new 575 bars at exactly the same angle and it looked just right, but after a bit I learned that once the inner fairing was installed, the thicker bars were too close to the paint. I ended up rolling the bars back a couple of degrees to leave about an eighth-inch away from the fairing. I'm not 100% certain that that is enough.

"While you're in there" is a common refrain around here.
 I added to this bar-swapping plan by hard-wiring some gadgets and running the new gadget wires in the bars. For the iPhone and the Garmin I hard wired a Griffin dual USB adapter (5V, 1A x2). This cleaned things up quite a bit, getting rid of a bunch of unkempt cables flopping around in the breeze. It also eliminates the loose connection-in-the-lighter socket troubles.
Another bonus: this freed up the lighter socket (for more gadgets!)
Power taps



Audio connections




You might notice that I used an actual lighter socket for the Sena Bluetooth gadget, rather than another Griffin... because I learned a little something about 'negotiated voltage' USB.



The iPhone and Garmin wires are now inside


From underneath, where the wires come out.



I found these extra connectors....(?) I know one of them is for fender tip lights (not used). Don't know about the others. Accessory I guess...I mean, who would need more stuff... Like, I know, right?

Another W.Y.I.T. item: reducing annoying glare(!) Two areas of flat chrome aimed right into my eyes: The chrome bezel around the fairing cap switches... removed it altogether. May reinstall if I find a good way to tame it. The flat top edge of the windshield base chrome...painted only that edge as an experiment.





My Lord, there's a lot of crap in a batwing!

And another job: it's dress up day for the Ventilator

[b407driver]

Did you REALLY need the clutch line or was it just convenient given some of your other wiring changes? The reason I ask is that I want to put some 575's on my '12 CVO Ultra, but it is out of my talent range as a DIY job, so I'm going to have a shop do it and I don't want them selling me some parts I don't need. I see some are putting taller bars on their rides with just a re-routing of some cables and lines.

[JoeVibe]

Did you REALLY need the clutch line or was it just convenient given some of your other wiring changes? The reason I ask is that I want to put some 575's on my '12 CVO Ultra, but it is out of my talent range as a DIY job, so I'm going to have a shop do it and I don't want them selling me some parts I don't need. I see some are putting taller bars on their rides with just a re-routing of some cables and lines.

I had the dealership install 575's on my '13, the stock lines worked fine.

Joe

[MrSurly]

The only consistant thing about this is the inconsistency. I don't know whether the factory actually uses different lengths of hoses at different times, or if owners have a different view or assessment of "needed".

First: consider that I DO occasionally practice police-style full-lock turns....most folks don't ever do that.
I don't want anything 'binding'.

Second: I didn't disconnect the clutch hose until it was absolutely necessary. I left the clutch perch and lever  connected and hanging with the fairing inner as it was tilted, hanging on a garage-ceiling strap.

After the initial install of the bars, I trial-fitted the fairing and the clutch perch. When I turned full-lock left, the clutch hose on the right frame rail would be pulled up toward the steering head. The movement was only about 3/4" and the steering DID achieve full lock. Depending on your definition of 'needed' and 'in a bind' maybe YOU'D say not needed.
*I* said, I'm changing it as I don't like the binding, even *slight* binding.
Re-routing the stock hose may have altered the binding, I don't know.
 I didn't go through the rerouting because I'd already decided to use the new one.

1.) Did the stock hose fit with NO ISSUES? No.

2.) Did it have a severe problem that could NOT have been dealt with? No.

You'll have to determine your tolerance level.

I would suggest  (if doing it yourself) that you get the hose I bought and if you decide not to use it, send it back.

If you are hiring it done, you'll probably be stuck with what they recommend.

The (ABS) brake hose seemed to have no issue at all.

[05Train]

Brake line on mine was fine.  +6 on the clutch cable though thanks to the CCE upper tree.   

[MrSurly]

Brake line on mine was fine.  +6 on the clutch HOSE though thanks to the CCE upper tree.

Fixt