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[charles05663]

That technique will certainly clear the fluid between the hand lever and the brake caliper but how do you clear the fluid in the ABS without using the Digital Assistant to control the valves?  I think you don't.  And, if any air gets in there I think you can't clear it either.
     -Dick-

While I don't clam to be an expert, would not the ABS module have to sit somewhere between the hand lever and the brake caliper to control the fluid?  I would think that all fluid passes through the ABS.

 

[grc]

While I don't clam to be an expert, would not the ABS module have to sit somewhere between the hand lever and the brake caliper to control the fluid?  I would think that all fluid passes through the ABS.

 

The hydraulic line from the master cylinder goes to a port on the ABS module first.  A separate line connects the exit port on the ABS module to the caliper(s).  Between that inlet port and exit port is a valve, and under normal circumstances that valve is positioned to allow a straight pass through from inlet to exit ports.  When you flush the fluid manually, the fluid flows directly from inlet to exit without entering the pump, accumulator, or relief port.  So if you change fluid manually without activating the ABS system, you aren't flushing the ABS pump.  But on the other hand, as long as you don't introduce air into the system while flushing and refilling, having fresh fluid in the master cylinder, both lines, and the caliper(s) is much better than not doing it at all.  Think of it as being somewhat like changing oil in the engine or trans.  You never get 100% of the old oil out either, but the small amount of old is diluted sufficiently by the new oil that it isn't a problem.  If you change brake fluid every year or two, I'd suggest the same principle would apply (once again, assuming no air in the pump and valves).  The best way of course is to cycle the pump and valves with the scan tool, but since most of us don't have the appropriate scan tool in our tool box the next best way to do it is as SteveG posted.  You can do it manually, or use a pressure/vacuum bleeder system.

Jerry

[tennisman]

My HD dealer charges $700 plus tax for the 20,000 mi. tune up on baggers. 
Is it worth it?  I'm considering new lifters and a couple new tires at the same time.  $1,500-$2,000 should cover it.  -Should be good for a couple more years then.

I'll answer this question with my vehicle, 2008 CVO Ultra, history.
I now have 106,000 miles; I've done all the oil/filter changes myself.  My engine uses a little less than 1/2 quart between changes (5000 miles).  I do all the routine maintenance (checking bolts, battery replacement, tire replacement).  I did have the dealer do the brake fluid change due to the need to cycle the ABS system.  I typically do this myself as I have on all my non-ABS bikes.
I've never changed the fork oil or tightened a steering head - only lubed the head.
The major issues I've had did not have anything to do with routine dealer "services".  My issues are compensator failures (3), and lifters (2 sets).  At the last lifter replacement, the dealer replaced the cams, chain tensioners, and oil pump, all of which would not have had any effect of "services".  I'll continue to do the same on all my bikes.
IMO, dealer services are not worth the $$.

[Steve_G]

I'll answer this question with my vehicle, 2008 CVO Ultra, history.
I now have 106,000 miles; I've done all the oil/filter changes myself.  My engine uses a little less than 1/2 quart between changes (5000 miles).  I do all the routine maintenance (checking bolts, battery replacement, tire replacement).  I did have the dealer do the brake fluid change due to the need to cycle the ABS system.  I typically do this myself as I have on all my non-ABS bikes.
I've never changed the fork oil or tightened a steering head - only lubed the head.
The major issues I've had did not have anything to do with routine dealer "services".  My issues are compensator failures (3), and lifters (2 sets).  At the last lifter replacement, the dealer replaced the cams, chain tensioners, and oil pump, all of which would not have had any effect of "services".  I'll continue to do the same on all my bikes.
IMO, dealer services are not worth the $$.

-Sounds like we do about the same thing.  I haven't had any issues with my brakes and clutch with doing my own fluid changes, and will continue to do so as I also have a second bike that has the anti-lock system with hydraulic clutch.  I don't have near the miles on my '08.  Just coming up to 20,000. 
But I'm very concerned with the comp. & lifter issues. 
Should I wait for a failure, or replace these parts in the near future?  I can't help but feel I'm just sitting on a time bomb. 

[tennisman]

Concerning the comp and lifters, I'd wait awhile.  The comp will let you know it's failing when you get a loud clunk at shutdown and miscues at startup (grinding, kicking out of mesh).  Lifters will get noisy and it will likely be just one to go first.  My warning is a bit of clatter for a couple miles after startup, then quiets down.
You get adequate warning before failure, IMO.

[T-Hawk]

My trusted Mechanic (HD Certified, whatever that means) and not the dealership, just finished my 25,000mi Service (per the books), replaced my rear brake pads, cleaned the calipers, and replaced fuel filter... all for only $462.87.

The Dealership has a flat rate of $460 + 3hrs labor per book @ $110/hr + fluids and incidentals.  I would easily expect to pay out $865 to have this done by my dealership.

[tennisman]

I question the need for a fuel filter....still got the original in mine (106K miles).

Rear brake pads at 25K miles...you must use the rear brake heavy....I got double that mileage on each set of mine (using OEM pads).

[T-Hawk]

I question the need for a fuel filter....still got the original in mine (106K miles).

Rear brake pads at 25K miles...you must use the rear brake heavy....I got double that mileage on each set of mine (using OEM pads).

I do ride hard and brake heavy at times, and ride double up often.  The rear pads were wearing awkward due to the filthy calipers I think... living down a dirt road and often riding in the rain, I sometimes don't keep her as clean as some.  When I do shine her up all nice, it's only another 50 miles or so down the road and you can't really tell it's ever been washed.

The road system in Alaska is not Tires or Brakes friendly by any means...  I'm lucky to get 10,000mi on ME880's and only got 8,990mi out of the stock tires...

But, I wondered off the original topic.