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[DrSpencer]

With the bike off, I'm measuring 11.3V at the HD saddlebag port.

I get 12.3V with the bike running.

Revving the engine has little effect on the voltage reading.

Bike has HD High Output charging system.

Thanks

[MrSurly]

With the bike off, I'm measuring 11.3V at the HD saddlebag port.

I get 12.3V with the bike running.

Revving the engine has little effect on the voltage reading.

Bike has HD High Output charging system.

Thanks

"Bike has HD High Output charging system. " not any more.

OK, you've got bigger fish to fry. Check the voltage on your truck or car just to test the meter. If the truck is 13~14.5 volts, then the meter is working but you need to fix the bike.
Check the voltage at the battery or the battery tender connection.
if it's different from the saddlebag socket voltage, trace the wiring issue.
If it's the same and stays under 13 when running, you need to get your manual and start doing the stator tests.
Mine was the regulator when last I had these symptoms.

Be glad you stumbled onto this at home.

[DrSpencer]

Battery tender/bike off: 11.6V

Battery tender/bike on at idle: 12.6V

Battery tender/bike on at 3K RPM: 12.7V

Car cigarette lighter/car off: 12.6V

New battery & HD High Output Charging System less than 1K miles ago.

Thanks 

[MrSurly]

I'm curious what your meter will read in the car running.
If the meter is working, your charging system is well below spec.
I would suggest 1.) verifying the meter and 2.) riding the bike a while and re-checking voltages. If it will not get to spec, take it back.

[DrSpencer]

I'm curious what your meter will read in the car running.
If the meter is working, your charging system is well below spec.
I would suggest 1.) verifying the meter and 2.) riding the bike a while and re-checking voltages. If it will not get to spec, take it back.

14.3V with the car running.

HD voltage dash gauge reads ~14V with the bike running.

Thanks

[DrSpencer]

Took the seat off and put the meter directly on the battery terminals, not the battery tender.

With the bike off, 12.8V.

With bike idling, 14.0V.

Thanks

[WestCoastRuss]

You mentioned that it is working via your truck's cigarette lighter....have you tried the bike's cigarette lighter in the fairing?
Also, iPhones can be fussy.....if you are using an aftermarket cable between the adapter and the iphone that could cause a problem......if you are using the oem cable then maybe try charging a different phone???

[DrSpencer]

You mentioned that it is working via your truck's cigarette lighter....have you tried the bike's cigarette lighter in the fairing?
Also, iPhones can be fussy.....if you are using an aftermarket cable between the adapter and the iphone that could cause a problem......if you are using the oem cable then maybe try charging a different phone???

Haven't tried using the bikes cigarette lighter in the fairing.

[DrSpencer]

I should have mentioned that the HD saddlebag power port is wired to an unswitched 12V, from an 'Eastern Beaver' 3 circuit fuse box http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html

Just so I'm clear, the HD power port is not wired directly to the battery, but gets its 12 volts from the fuse box, which is wired directly to the battery (unswitched), like this:

Battery-->3 circuit fuse box (all circuits are unswitched)-->HD saddle bag power port

I can't see how this fuse box could have any influence on this problem, can you?

Thanks

[MrSurly]

You have demonstrated a connection quality problem.
The good news is that your charging system is working!
But your battery tender and the power port are showing 1-2v drop.
Something is poorly connected.

[DaBigNuttedMan]

I think what twolane rider said could possibly cause your phone or the usb adapter to protect themselves, starting the bike probably kills power supply to all circuts but fuel and spark while cranking, then stop cranking[because she started up] and everything else is back to key on power and charging, the big drain of cranking the starter immediately goes from a low to a high when the charging systym hits and your devices if sensing this may wait for a  off on reset. If your aftermarket fusebox is wired straight to the battery it's sensing this.

[DrSpencer]

I think what twolane rider said could possibly cause your phone or the usb adapter to protect themselves, starting the bike probably kills power supply to all circuts but fuel and spark while cranking, then stop cranking[because she started up] and everything else is back to key on power and charging, the big drain of cranking the starter immediately goes from a low to a high when the charging systym hits and your devices if sensing this may wait for a  off on reset. If your aftermarket fusebox is wired straight to the battery it's sensing this.

Yes, but the IPhone doesn't charge, regardless of whether the bike is running or not.

Thanks

[DrSpencer]

You have demonstrated a connection quality problem.
The good news is that your charging system is working!
But your battery tender and the power port are showing 1-2v drop.
Something is poorly connected.

Makes sense. But do you think the IPhone cares about a 1-2V drop?

How do you suggest I proceed?

Thanks

[MrSurly]

Voltmeter is your tool here. If it shows say, 2v low at the socket with both meter leads on the socket, move the black lead to the battery neg. if it still shows the low number ( from socket pos to batt neg) then issue is in the pos side of the circuit. Move the red lead to the fuse box, keep working your way back till you find the change.

If the earlier test showed that the voltage became good when you moved the black lead, then the issue is on the ground side.

Check each connection. Check voltage before and after the fuses.

Yes, the iPhone or the USB adapter you are using might very well have a threshold voltage below which it will disconnect. Consider that the application typically calls for 13.4-14.7 volts

[tweeter13]

Have you tried any other accessories plugged into the power port besides your I phone?  You can have a bad wire or connection somewhere and it will show close to battery voltage but when a load is applied like you I phone it just can't support the amperage. 

For example there may be several strands of wire through it but if only one small little strand it making contact it won't pull the amps through it.   It will show voltage but the voltage will drop once the load is applied.  If you have a spot light that plugs into a cig lighter try that and turn it on.  Any thing else but the in phone. 

Todd